Dora's Home Real Estate Tips

CMHC Rules effective April 19, 2010

2010-03-18T15:16:00.000-07:00

There has been a lot of misunderstanding about the new CMHC rules and how they will affect buyers. I have attached a copy of the rules for my Prince George clients.

Jim Flaherty announced changes to mortgage rules in Canada on February 16th, 2010 which are to take effect on April 19th, 2010. Here is a list of the changes:

Borrowers will be tested on their ability to make payments on a five year fixed-rate mortgage, even though they may choose different terms (e.g. a three year variable mortgage). Currently borrowers are tested against a three year fixed rate mortgage. This means people will qualify for lower maximum mortgage amounts. This will protect people from taking out larger mortgages than they can really afford. What some people are doing is opting for variable mortgages (with lower payments) and this exposes them to the risk that gradually increasing interest rates over time (because interest rates can really only go up from here) will make their mortgages unaffordable later on because they bit off more than they could chew up front.

The maximum a mortgage can be refinanced has been lowered from 95% to 90% of the value of the home. This reduces how much a borrower can tap into the equity of their house. Again this will curb the ability of people to stretch themselves too thin.
Mortgages for homes in which the borrower will not occupy will now require a 20% down payment. It was 5% previously. This reduces speculation in residential real estate since borrowers now have to put up serious money in order to buy.
It should also be noted that these rules apply to those seeking CMHC insured mortgages (or an equivalent private sector mortgage insurer). So if you can find someone willing to offer you an uninsured mortgage you don’t have to worry about these rules.

As you can see, this will not really affect first-time buyers. There was speculation of upping the down payment from 5 to 6% but this change was not implemented. Please call me if you have any questions....Dora 250-565-5297

Spring Decorating- Designer Tips to Freshen Up Your Home for Spring

2010-01-03T23:36:00.000-08:00

A new spring season invites changes to your home with fresh spring decorating. Spring calls for delicate colors and soft fabrics. Read what well-known designers recommend to freshen up your home for Spring.

When asked about inexpensive changes to freshen up a bedroom or living room for Spring, we got lots of great suggestions. Which ones will work for your home?

Mary Baltz says to use color and paint on walls, furniture, or trim. She likes a neutral ground but introduces aqua blues and spring greens. With outdoor colors coming inside, how about bring in a piece of outdoor furniture, too? It will bring in a new interesting texture.
Lyn Peterson loves color and pattern. Take a clue from fashion catalogues and use the colors and patterns in your home. Avoid "pasty pales or deep dark drenched colors" and choose a mid tone. Use organic color to cheer up an uninteresting neutral space. Think of "Mother Nature" and go to the colors you see outside.
Use colorful patterned pillows on a "neutral chenille or canvas couch." Get rid of the fussy beads and fringe. "Let color and pattern do the talking... a crazy hot pink, magenta, marigold and cobalt madras plaid.... a chartreuse, plum and teal floral. These bold ingredients distract the eye." Revive a boring old sofa.
Charlotte Moss likes paint, too, because it's cheap, you can do the job yourself, and it creates a major change. She suggests that you "try a color you've never tried before -- kiwi green or a pale violet -- something you've always wanted to try. A couple of gallons of paint is a very inexpensive experiment."
Yvette Piaggio says it in 2 words, "Lighten up!" That means colors, fabrics, and flow. Everything should be clean and refreshing, light and tranquil. Choose sheer fabrics, linens, and open weave textiles. Move from ceramic to crystal and glass, either contemporary or traditional.
And, "nothing says Spring more than fresh flowers. Make sure to be consistent with creating arrangements. Choose a color scheme, like all white, instead of mixing bouquets, use the same type flower in one glass container with a beautiful white satin or grosgrain ribbon wrapped around it."
Tricia Foley attacks clutter which is "so distracting and high maintenance!" Simplify. Use sheets, flowers, and rearranging to create a new look with what you have.

Without spending much money, you can give a fresh spring look to your home. What a lovely thought!

http://interiordec.about.com/od/springdecor/a/designerspring.htm

Cozy Rooms

2009-12-17T15:17:00.000-08:00

Do you ever find yourself saying: "Why don't we spend more time in this room?" In just one weekend you can add enough warm touches to create a space you'll never want to leave.

Warm-Ups

Regardless of your decorating style, there are some surefire elements that will instantly make your room more welcoming.

Decorative pillows. Add big, sink-in throw pillows to your sofas and chairs. Use a fabric color or pattern that stands out against the seating. If you use solid fabrics, consider touchable chenille, velvet, or silk.

Slipcovers. Loose-fitting slipcovers make any room look more casual. If you don't have the time or money to have one made, use a one-size-fits-all version.

Ottoman. Nix your hard-edged coffee table in favor of a kick-your-feet-up ottoman. It's more relaxing, and gives you the opportunity to introduce more cozy fabric into the room.

Fabric window coverings. Blinds and shades are efficient, but not very friendly looking. This room uses fabric panels instead, secured inside the window with tension rods. If you keep your blinds, warm up the window with a valance, a swag, or stationary panels on the sides.

Cushions. A single chair or bench is a good candidate for plumping up. Add a seat cushion using a fun fabric that doesn't appear anywhere else in the room.

Throws. A nubby wool throw blanket for winter (or lightweight cotton for summer) is perfectly welcome thrown over the arm or back of a sofa.

Screen. Floor screens help to visually enclose a space and bring a room into scale. Just sitting near one makes you feel a little more protected. This screen is the ultimate in comfort because it's upholstered, adding padding and a touch of pattern to the room.

Rug. Area rugs help define conversation and sitting areas, and they add texture and pattern to a room.

Plants and flowers. Don't forget natural elements in your design scheme. If plants thrive in your room, so will you.

Family photos. Nothing personalizes a room like family photos. To keep from cluttering tabletops, choose several favorites and create a wall display with uniform mats and frames.

Low lighting. Harsh overhead lights suck all the charm out of a room. Instead, use adjustable ceiling-mounted lights and/or lots of lamps. It's much cozier to use several lamps, each with a low-watt bulb, than one lamp with a 100-watt bulb.

Conversational grouping. Take notice of how your major seating pieces are arranged. People should be able to conduct a comfortable conversation with their neighbor. To do so, pull furniture away from the wall, closer to each other, with chairs and sofas facing each other. Make sure each seat has a table within reach for setting down drinks.

http://www.bhg.com/decorating/seasonal/winter/cozy-room-decorating/

Handy Home Projects

2009-11-18T23:00:00.000-08:00

It's time for a home tune-up

Before the holidays kick into high gear, get yourself revved up for a home tune-up.

Whether you are tackling a small project or a large one, here are a few ideas on how to get your home in tip-top shape for all the fun of the holidays.

Don't have the time to renovate the entire kitchen? Give your kitchen a quick makeover by adding new appliances (Energy Star-rated, of course!), resurfacing the cabinets, updating the hardware or recovering the floor. Any one of these will give your kitchen a new look without the high cost of a new kitchen.
Make your living space comfortable for family and guests by installing a programmable thermostat. Programmable thermostats cut energy costs by automatically adjusting temperature settings while you are asleep or away from home.
Get your furnace serviced by a qualified technician before the cold weather hits. Make sure you check the filters monthly throughout the winter and change them as needed. A furnace that is burning cleanly, whether gas or oil, will save you money on your winter heating bill.
If you have older windows and doors, go through the house and feel any drafts coming from them. A simple way is to hold a candle or a lighter near doors and windows and see if the flame flickers. Pick up caulking or weather-stripping to fix the problem. Outside, seal leaks with weather-resistant caulk. For brick areas, use masonry sealer, which will stand up better to freezing and thawing. Also check your electrical outlets for air leaks. Foam insulation made for outlet and switch placement is inexpensive, quick to install, and effective.
This is the perfect time of year to check the operation of your home's smoke detectors. Change the batteries and push the "test" button. With all the holiday lights aglow and seasonal candles flickering, it is important that smoke alarms are in top working condition. Consider buying new detectors if the ones you have are more than 10 years old.

And while you are sprucing up your home for the holidays, it's a perfect time to do a review of your insurance coverage. Whether you are making little improvements or have done a complete reno in the past year, it is important to make sure your coverage reflects those changes. So talk to your insurance broker to go over the details while your home is on your mind. You will relax and enjoy the season more, knowing your investment is covered.

https://www.airmiles.ca/arrow/InspiredLivingSplash?splashId=7800056&changeLocale=en_CA&loggedIn=t&_requestid=2027962

Home Interior Decorating for the Four Seasons: Winter

2009-11-07T13:18:00.000-08:00

Interior design schools teach students how to use small accents to make a huge difference, and winter is the perfect time to make a few small touches go a long way. While many think about home interior decorating for the holidays, remember that there are usually two months of winter after the holidays are over.

Keys to Winter Home Interior Decorating

Winter interior design is all about creating an environment that reflects the beauty and intensity of the winter season, while leaving the cold outside. Good winter home interior decorating should create a warm, comforting, attractive environment, and the best ways to do this are through warm colors, rich textures, and winter-themed accessories.

Deep Interior Design Colors

Deeper, darker colors make a room feel warmer. Replace summer's light lampshades with ones that are mulberry- or copper-colored, and replace sheer or bright curtains with deeper, richer versions of the same colors. If you must have a touch of "snow", consider adding white flowers as mantel decorations or a table centerpiece.

Rich Textures

Carpet can bring warmth and color to a room. If your carpet is not the right color, bring out rugs in deep winter colors, such as pine-green. Regardless of their size, these can add a sense of warmth to a room with light-colored carpet, bare wood, or cold tile.

The Right Accessories

Candles are some of the best home accessories for winter interior decorating. Their intense glow not only looks warm, but adds heat to any room where they're shining. Group them in collections of various heights and thicknesses.

http://www.interiordesignschoolreview.com/news/2006/11/home_interior_decorating_for_the_four_seasons_winter.html

Fall Accents for the Home

2009-10-16T13:19:00.000-07:00

As the hot, humid summer fades into the cooler more pleasant days of fall you may be wondering how you can add some fall accents to your home. Fortunately, there are all kinds of ways you can bring a warm, fall feeling into your home and they don't require a lot of money or work. Here's some ideas on how you can add easily add some fall accents to your home.

It starts with the colors

■Fall is full of bright colors like reds, golds, yellows, Burgundys and oranges so you the simplest way to add a fall feel by introducing fall colors.
■Consider some of the small ways you can add fall colors without making major changes. For example, you could simply change your throw pillows for pillows in a bright fall color, add colorful, decorative candles, books or picture frames to add little touches of fall to your home.
■Painting a room in a bright fall color will enhance the room, but you don't need to do an entire room, you could simply do an accent wall in a yellow, gold or orange color.
■If painting is more work than you want to take on, consider changing your window treatments. Get rid of your light airy summer curtains and replace them with heavier fabrics in a fall color. Not only will you give your home a more 'fall like' appearance, you'll enjoy the practical benefit of saving on your fall (and winter) heating costs.

Fall is harvest time

■You can easily add visual appeal simply using a center piece of fall flowers to bring in some natural beauty while adding a pleasant aroma of the season.
■Or, consider showcasing the beauty of the fall harvest with a center piece of colorful gourds and Indian corn and fruits like apples and grapes. Enhance the appearance by including colorful non traditional fruits such as mangos pomegranate or even tomatoes. The only limitation is your imagination.
■Nothing says fall more than pumpkins and colorful leaves. At this time of year pumpkins are inexpensive and available at grocery stores, farmers markets and often at road side stands. Take a walk on a sunny fall day, enjoy the weather and gather some fallen leaves to spread around the base of a bright orange pumpkin.

Fall has it's scents as well

■Consider adding some candles with the scents of fall such as the cinnamon scent of a fresh baked apple pie or some sweet vanilla.

It's easy to add fall accents to your home and it can be a source of fun for the whole family. Use your imagination and you'll figure out lots of things that will give you a chance to enjoy fall even inside your home.

By Murray Anderson
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/fall-accents-for-the-home

Fall Decorating Ideas

2009-09-04T12:11:00.000-07:00

Most of us don't want to admit that summer is over...pushing the thought to the back of our minds as we enjoy what nice weather we have left. But autumn brings its own excitement...for one, decorating! Here are a few seasonal decorating tips I thought were interesting.

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As the sunny summer fades out and we enter autumn, it's time to give your home a look that captures the spirit of the season, adding spice and warmth to your home in a simple, natural way. Whether you're spreading pumpkins and gourds around your kitchen or porch, or adorning your sofa with soft, warm blankets, you'll find that it's small touches that go a long way when decorating for the fall.

This year look to the outdoor autumn world for inspiration when you decorate. Why go out and buy plastic decorations when you can find almost everything you need right in nature? Let's face it, some Halloween decorations can be downright gaudy. Not only will do-it-yourself decorating save you money, but the look you achieve will be more natural, refined, and last in your home long after Halloween has passed. Plus, you can tap into your creativity with hands-on decorating, a fun way to get you into the fall spirit. Get outside and take this opportunity to enjoy the outdoors before the cold of winter moves in.

It's no mystery where the classic earthy colors of the season come from; just look out the window at the natural world around you. Leaves are changing color to intense reds and pinks, vivid oranges and yellows, and more subdued browns and coppers as they fall. The produce of the season crops up in all kinds of rich tones; the deep orange of the pumpkin, lively apple reds and greens, gourds and squash in all sorts of shades and patterns of deep greens and buttery neutrals. At any farmer's market you'll find decorative Indian corn with its pale yellow and dark red, brown, and black kernels, as well as rows of mums with their petals in rainbows of bright earth tones. Simply adding a variety of these items to the interior or exterior of your home will immediately give it a splash of fall colors. From here it's up to you to decide how to arrange displays and create your own crafts with these colorful gifts of nature. Read on for ideas to get you started.

There is perhaps no other fruit as emblematic of the fall season as the pumpkin. With its striking orange color, it will brighten up any space it is placed in. You'll find pumpkins and jack-o-lanterns outside just about any house you pass in October. Pumpkins aren't just for Halloween. If left intact, you can get plenty of use out of them decoratively for most of the fall season, and then use them for some wonderful fall recipes, including that Thanksgiving staple, pumpkin pie.

If you're planning on cooking with fresh pumpkin, keep in mind that you'll need to select the right kind. The pulp of the larger jack-o-lantern pumpkins we commonly think of is too stringy and watery to cook with; however, the seeds inside can be saved and baked for a delicious crunchy treat. For cooking more complex recipes you'll need the sugar pumpkin, a smaller, sweeter variety. Go to farm stands and markets and make sure you purchase pumpkins of both varieties. Pumpkins can be used in all kinds of unique recipes, from soups and breads to treats like pancakes and cookies.

If you buy a large quantity of pumpkins and gourds, you can get creative in your placement of them. You can make original arrangements to put on display in or outside your home. If you buy a bunch of small to medium-sized pumpkins, you can place them in all kinds of places and arrangements, making a bolder statement. Look around you to find unusual spots for your pumpkins to stand out. Cascade them in a line down your front stairs, or place them in a row atop fenceposts to really spread out the color. You can place a pumpkin or gourd or two over your front door, or line them up on each side of the walkway to your house.

For the indoors, mini pumpkins lined up on the mantle of your fireplace is a nice seasonal touch, especially when you place some leaves in between each one. When walking outside, collect some colorful leaves, pinecones and acorns, then gather together a bunch of small pumpkins, gourds, apples and Indian corn. Add a basket, a glass vase or bowl, and you have the ingredients for a fall display you can use as a dining room table centerpiece, or place on a kitchen island or any free surface. Experiment with plenty of variations. You can place all gourds, pumpkins, or apples in separate containers, sprinkling the leaves and acorns about as desired, or you may prefer to mix them all together. An autumn-toned piece of cloth will look nice under a basket, as well as allow you to spread whatever extras you may want around the base of the basket or bowl. Furthermore, it keeps the surface clean from residue. Place candles around the sides or in the center of your display. No matter what your setup looks like, it is certainly rearrangeable.

Get imaginative and make candle holders out of small gourds and mini pumpkins yourself; cut off the top of the gourd and scoop out the desired amount of its insides to make room for a small candle or tea light. You can raise these one-of-a-kind holders further to attention by elevating them on stands. Note that once you have cut into the gourds they will only last for few days before they must be replaced. It's not a long-lasting decoration, but a clever idea for adding some ambience to your home if you're having company for dinner. You can also use a similar trick, hollowing out the inside of a larger gourd or small squash, to make a "bowl" in which you can serve soup to your guests. In each of these cases, make sure to use a uniformly-shaped gourd or squash with a flat bottom.

Make ornamental lanyards by stringing together dried leaves and pinecones which you can hang almost anywhere in your house: from the windows, over the mantle of your fireplace, or up the handle of your staircase. You can turn a pumpkin into an innovative flower vase if you cut out the core. The possibilities are endless, and you can keep looking around you for inspiration for adding to your do-it-yourself decorations as the season goes by. As it cools down outdoors, you can make your home warmer inside, keeping in the spirit of the season. You can create visual warmth as well as bring scents of the season to you home with autumn-scented candles. Opt for scents like pumpkin spice, cranberry, pine, and vanilla. You can also purchase or dry out your own potpourri to place around your home. But nothing will fill your home with the rich, warm aroma of autumn like home-cooking some seasonal recipes.

Putting slipcovers on the couches and chairs around your house is an easy way to dramatically change the look and tone of a room for the season, as well as bring warmth to it with heavier fabrics. Consider earth tones of all kinds, and different kinds of fabrics like cotton flannel, faux leather, warm chenille, and luxurious velvet. For even more warmth you might want to place around a few objects with a furry texture or trim, such as pillows and blankets. Go for plain solids or patterns that fit with fall themes, like floral or leaf patterns. Just changing the covers on your furniture can make a drastic difference to a living room, and you can follow in this vein throughout the house; change your curtains, bed linens, and towels to heavier materials that are similarly autumn-toned. Bring out fall-colored or patterned table cloths and small rugs. You can rearrange your furniture so that you move it away from drafty areas and closer to the fireplace. Changing the fabrics and covers in your home is one of the most simple and affordable ways to give it a fresh look, and one that is easily changed season to season.

Don't just think about staying indoors for the fall. Sure it's getting colder out there, but fall weather is some of the most pleasant of the year, with low humidity and gentle cool breezes that should last for at least a couple months. Autumn is the last time of the year to truly enjoy your porch. You can warm up your porch similarly to how you might warm up the inside of your house; bring out a few warm throw blankets you can bundle up with as you sit outside and have a cup of hot apple cider, and place durable fall-patterned table cloths on any small tables. Of course you can place pumpkins and gourds around too. Line up pumpkins in a row on the ledge of your porch and bring cheer to both you and the neighborhood. With such a fall-spirited porch you'll want to bring out some candles and enjoy an autumn dinner in the setting sun.

To give your home a fall makeover, you don't need to look much further than the natural autumn world around you, the linens and blankets stored away in your closet or attic, and your own creative license. Simple, natural touches can create a look that fits your own home, instantly giving the interior and exterior a look that will last you all season.

Simple Guidelines for Choosing Kitchen Colours

2009-08-26T23:26:00.000-07:00

How do you choose what colors will work for your kitchen design?

It’s easier than you think. Once you eliminate what won’t work, you are left with a simple palette to choose from. So here are a few ways to filter out colors from your kitchen.

Color for Small Spaced Kitchens

Don’t use dark timbers and colors that will make the space appear smaller. So avoid dark reds, purples, dark blues and greens.

Look for clear crisp colors or whites with a tint of blue, green or yellow for a subtle background of color. Keep cabinetry simple and unadorned and avoid clutter as it will create chaos in a small kitchen.

Color for Large Open Plan Spaced Kitchens

Don’t make a huge contrast in color to the remainder of the décor in your home unless you want your kitchen to visually dominate the living space. Choose a color that flows with the single open plan space. Generally open plan living uses one color for the walls and has small pockets of color to define specific areas within this.

Open plan spaces predominately use white as a wall color and then add color and texture to that. So colors that would work in a large open plan spaced kitchen are mottled, textured neutrals, whites, grays, black and silver metallics, materials like Corian, granite, laminates, stainless steel and tiles.

Then use color in accessories, flowers, jars, vases, pendant light shades, bar stools, pictures etc to provide focal points and pockets of color.

These kitchens are small functional and compact. They generally aren’t a feature of the home simply a necessity and often use colors and textures to blend into the space and encroach as little as possible.

Most apartments are strapped for space and don’t have an abundance of natural light so bright light and clear colors tend to work best. Once again neutrals, whites and grays with accents of clear crisp colors, teal, apple green, hot pink, citrus yellow in small forms. Therefore the timeless all white kitchen works well with white appliances or for a modern look, soft metallic gray with stainless steel appliances is sleek and functional.

Colors for Standard Typical Spaced Kitchen

Yippee!! Anything goes…. Obviously as long as it suits the style of your home and kitchen you can use any colors you like. The only thing to be weary of is lighting.

If you have a lot of natural light and well planned task and feature lighting then the colors you use can be strong and bold and you will still be able to see and the kitchen will be highlighted but if you have little natural light and poor lighting then either upgrade it or choose lighter more light reflecting colors.

Make the most of color, use it, don’t get obsessed with it – step back and visualize your kitchen and how it will look, use brush outs (large cards of paint colors) to hold up in the space to see how the color works at different times of the day with different light. Start gradually and build up color.

If you are in doubt, stick to neutrals and layer gradually. Add color until you get the look you want. After all haven’t we been told for generations from the real estate agents that white is best in the kitchen as it is the color of purity and cleanliness and the most versatile and the best kitchen color for resale!

http://kitchens.interiordezine.com/kitchen_styles/choosing_colors_for_kitchens.html

Keep That Window Working!

2009-07-04T17:50:00.001-07:00

I just thought this was an interesting article...short, but useful. I've run into the sticky window issue a few times!

Windows are an everyday part of our life. We need to maintain our windows because of the moving parts. It does not really matter what type of window you have, from timber to aluminum they all use moving part to open and close. If you let paint or grime build up it will affect the performance of the window and may lead to the point where you can’t lock or close it.
•Aluminum windows need to be clean, and with the use of spray silicone you add a film of lubricant to the tracks and wheels or runners.
•Use the spray silicone inside the tracking system to improve performance.
•For those timber windows use the spray silicone on the hinges and stays, and by working the hinge and spraying at the same time, keep the window moving till you regain total movement.
•You must be careful not to get any silicone on paintwork or where you intend to paint. Most spray cans will come with a hollow piece of plastic so that you can direct your spray easily.
•The best way to secure aluminum windows is to install a key lock system where the pin passes through the sliding and fixed tracks locking the window into position. When you remove the key the window cannot be moved. There is also a similar locking system for timber windows

http://www.renovatehomes.com.au/?Page=Newsitem&NewsId=46

Spring Lawn Preparation

2009-04-30T16:53:00.000-07:00

Now that the wintry weather is gone and the colorful blooms are back, it’s time to think about spring cleaning. But while you’re washing windows, scrubbing walls and dusting corners inside the house, don’t forget about rolling up those sleeves and giving the outside a once-over, too.

Spending some time in the backyard as soon as spring rolls around can really pay off. “Winter can leave a lawn in pretty tough shape,” says backyard expert Michael Miller, president of backyard tool manufacturer Hound Dog Products. “But there are lots of little things you can do to help spruce up your backyard when the weather starts to turn warmer. By digging in to cleanup in early spring, you’ll be ahead of the game, and your neighbors will be playing catch-up all year long.”

Miller offers seven tips that the professionals use to ensure a successful backyard spring cleanup effort -- and to help your home’s outside sparkle and shine as vibrantly as the inside.

• Rake. As soon as the lawn begins to wake up for the season, give it a light once-over with a rake, taking care not to disturb any new grass plants by raking too hard. In addition to clearing leaves, twigs and other debris left over from last fall, the first raking of the year also allows you to assess the extent of any winter damage to your lawn. Look for early signs of pests or disease, and nip them in the bud before they cause big problems.

• Aerate. Heavy use throughout the year can cause soil to become compacted. Removing plugs of sod in the spring -- aerating -- loosens the soil and lets water, air and fertilizer get down to the grass plant’s root structure. For smaller yards, or for concentrated trouble spots in any size yard, consider using a manual aerating tool that removes plugs from the turf. If you have a large yard, consider renting a power aerator.

• Top dress. After you aerate, spend a few minutes doing what the experts call “top dressing,” spreading a thin layer of peat moss over the lawn with a rake. The top dressing helps to gradually condition the lawn throughout the year, strengthening the grass so it can resist disease, weeds and thatch, and reducing the amount of water and fertilizer it needs.

• Weed. Go after weeds early in the season before they have a chance to go to seed. Cultivating a healthy lawn is one of the simplest ways to crowd out weeds. Or, remove dandelions and other broadleaf weeds with an easy-to-use weeder. Ergonomic tools like the Weed Hound have helped make long afternoons spent weeding nothing more than a backbreaking memory. All you do is place the tool over the weed, step lightly on the footrest, and pull the weed up, root and all.

• Fix bare spots. Whether it’s due to disease or dog urine, bare patches can make a yard look shabby. A quick and easy way of improving the look of your yard is to repair the discolored patches, especially in early spring, when the cooler temperatures help the grass grow. Just clear away the dead-looking patches, sprinkle grass seed on the newly exposed soil, add fertilizer, and keep the area moist until it sprouts.

• Remove thatch build-up. Thatch prevents sunlight, oxygen and moisture from getting to the nutrient-hungry soil below. But it’s easy to remove, especially if you do it regularly -- every year or two. Just go at the yard with a dethatching rake or power dethatcher to clean away the layer of tangled roots and stems. It takes some elbow grease, but it will help clear the way for new growth.

• Give your tools a spring tune-up. Spend a few minutes in the garage or storage shed making sure your tools are in good working condition -- before you need to use them for the first time. Consider taking your lawn mower in for an annual tune-up. The dealer can replace the oil and spark plugs, sharpen the blade, and get it ready for the season.A little effort in early spring can lay the groundwork for a thriving, healthy backyard -- and have your neighbors turning green with envy.

http://www.homeownernet.com/articles/springlawnprep.html

Spring Cleanup: Getting Your Garden Back Into Shape

2009-04-09T16:31:00.001-07:00

It looks as though...dare I say it? Spring has almost sprung in Prince George! After a couple of MONTHS wondering if we were going to get spring at all...looked for awhile there like we would just go back into winter...it looks as though Jack Frost has given up. It is a bit dreary outside as I write this, but...I was fortunate enough to see both robins and tulips just the other day!
So anyway, thought I'd post another article on spring gardening...it has some interesting tips in it. Enjoy :)

Early Spring is a great time to emerge from hibernation. We all do it; humans, animals and even our gardens. If you take some time to give your garden an early boost, you will likely be rewarded with a spectacular growing season.Early SpringTiming is different in all parts of the country. But you may find that if you get outside and do a little work in your garden before the start of the growing season, your garden beds will look fantastic. You may even enjoy the cool weather and getting your body in shape for the gardening season to come.

Spring Clean Up

If you did a great job bedding down your plants for winter, you may not have too much work to do this Spring. However, you still should put in a little effort to make sure everything is in order.If you were a little too busy last fall to do much cleaning up, you will find that you have some work to do.

Clean Out Those Garden Beds

One of the first things you will want to do for a good Spring clean up is to clean out your garden beds. If you have any annuals left in your beds that are shriveled and dead, rake them up and dispose of them. Better yet, compost them to use in the future as mulch. If you have any perennials which you haven't cut back, be sure to do that now. You don't want to have this year's plants emerging amongst brown and shriveled stalks. Cut back these dead perennials all the way to the ground. However, make sure not to cut back plants which will grow from old wood, such as Hydrangeas.

Mulch

Mulching and its annual removal is a matter of personal preference. It is also a matter of cost. There are many gardeners who believe that winter mulch must be disposed of in the very early Spring, so as not to spread disease. If any of your plants had leaf spot, or any other garden pest or disease, this will surely be carried over in the mulch. In addition, if leaves from elsewhere have blown in and settled in your garden beds over the winter, you may have spores or cocoons hiding in your garden.

In theory, you should rake up the winter mulch and dispose of it or compost it (the high temperatures of composting will kill off any nasties). However, this can be back breaking, time consuming and expensive.

If, for example, you noticed that your roses performed very poorly last year and had funky looking leaves, you may want to do some extra Spring clean up in the rose beds. That is, if you are lucky enough to have rose beds! Other wise, try to get out all of the dead leaves, weed and plants and leave the mulch behind. You may even find that if you take up all the mulch too early, your plants get a little too chilly. Just make sure that you get rid of the dead and shriveled leaves and plants and you should be just fine.

Garden Bed Maintenance

Early Spring is a great time to look over your beds and perform any necessary maintenance. You will be able to walk freely around in the beds and get to any spigots or fencing that needs repairing before your beautiful plants are up and growing.

Early Spring is also a great time to inspect the foundation of your house if it is going to be shortly blocked by growing plants. Take a few minutes and examine the foundation of your house to make sure nothing looks like it is wet or in disrepair. You may not be able to do this if you have foundation beds and gardens which will soon be growing.

Clean Out Last Years Pots and Containers

Early Spring is also a great time to clean out any pots and containers that may still have last year's plants and soil in them. Mulch or dispose of any dead plants that are still in those containers and get rid of the soil. Chances are that last year's plants have leached all the nutrients out of it, so you can compost the soil as well.

Reap Your Rewards

If you put in a little bit of effort early this Spring, your planting and garden beds will be in great shape for the whole growing season. Your plants will be primed for success and their surroundings will be beautiful.

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/139103/spring_clean_up_getting_your_garden_pg2.html?cat=32

Tips to Making Painting Easy

2009-04-02T16:44:00.000-07:00

Summer is the season of the "do-it-yourselfer." Handy homeowners come into their own as the weather warms and they can embark on all those home improvement and maintenance tasks that languished all winter. Painting tops the list for many homeowners; it not only protects your interiors, painting is a great way to liven things up.

Giving interior walls a fresh coat of paint is well within the abilities of most homeowners. The experts at Wagner Spray Tech, makers of tools to ease every painting task, offer the following helpful hints to get you started on your paint project:

Preparation

•Good surface preparation is the key to a long-lasting and great-looking paint job. Repair cracks or chips, sand and smooth rough edges, and clean chalky surfaces. Give the walls 24 hours to dry after you have wiped them down.

•Assemble all painting tools and cleanup supplies before you start. You will need paint (one gallon per every 300 to 400 square feet), painter's tape, drop cloths, brushes, rollers, paint tray liners, paint thinner and rags. For fast, easy painting, consider a power sprayer or power roller. Recent innovations make these tools easy to use, easy to control, easy to switch colors and easy to clean.

•Protect floors and furniture with a drop cloth or sheet.

•Cover trim with a low-tack painter's tape to protect trim. Low-tack or less sticky tapes are easier to remove and less likely to harm wood.

•Protect windows with Glass Mask, a liquid product that is easier to apply than traditional tape. The product comes in a plastic tube that fits easily in the palm of the hand. To apply, simply press the attached applicator pad to the window and glide it along the trim that will be painted. Once the liquid is completely dry, you can paint the trim. Any paint that laps onto the Glass Mask can easily be scraped off with the included blade. One tube of Glass Mask will cover about the same lineal footage as three rolls of traditional tape. The product is available at hardware, paint supply and home warehouse stores.

•Remove loose fibers from roller covers with painter's tape or a lint roller before using.

Painting

•Spray or roll from top to bottom, left to right to cover neatly and evenly. Lighter, multiple coats will cover better than one heavy layer of paint.

•Sprayers offer the best and most efficient coverage when painting large areas or exteriors. After spraying, back roll to ensure even coverage.

•Use a quality brush or roller.

•Place a garbage bag over your paint tray, brush or roller to prevent the paint from drying. This will keep the paint for 24 hours - and let you take a break without worrying that your paint will dry out.

Clean Up

•For water-based paints, rinse brushes, rollers and tools with water. For oil-based paints, use paint thinner. Some power sprayers and rollers now offer disposable wet parts that don't need to be cleaned and are inexpensive to replace. This also allows easier color changes during the painting process.

•Use bristle protectors that fit over brushes and protect them when not in use. They are available at most hardware stores.

•Use a fine-tooth comb to loosen any debris left in the bristles after clean up.

Monthly Garden Maintenance: SPRING!

2009-03-19T15:25:00.000-07:00

Spring is almost here - at least we hope it is! - so here are a few tips for getting on top of your gardening for the year!

The term garden journal is widely used, but do you know what a garden journal is? A misconception is that a garden journal is an unnecessary book of blank pages one uses to write down thoughts while lounging in the garden. That is certainly an option (we are not here to discourage creativity or lounging in the garden); however, a garden journal is more widely used as a tool to document the successes and failures in a garden.

When a car is manufactured, it comes with a user's manual. After a house is built, the owner receives a copy of the plans, and user manuals for appliances. Likewise, a garden journal is the manual of your garden that tells you when to perform specific maintenance tasks, deal with diseases, and care for individual plants. A garden journal is your one-stop for all this gardening information. To start your gardening journal off right, we've created a yearly gardening task list broken down by month.

Garden Production Schedule

Starting seedlings, preparing soil, buying mulch, deterring insects and rodents, planting new plants, spraying for diseases, trimming, cutting, dead heading, thinning out, dividing, adding nutrients, and picking produce and herbs are just a few of the tasks a gardener performs each year. Gardening can be an obsession which soon becomes a year round activity, as you'll soon see. For everything to bloom and grow on schedule, your plants must be planted, pruned, fed, and cared for throughout the year. Truly organized gardeners don't fly by the seat of their pants or take a hint from the gardening actions of neighbors, but actually adhere to a gardening production schedule each season. The garden journal is normally the guide used to care for the garden each year.

Gardening Tasks for March

° March is the perfect time to start seedlings indoors such as calendula, corn poppy, corn flower, sunflower, marigolds, zinnia, fox glove, impatiens, cosmos, snapdragon, and lupines. Gardeners use both seed starting kits available at most home improvements stores and online, or develop homemade starter containers by cutting down toilet paper rolls, stuffing the bottom with newspaper, and filling the top with soil. Whichever method you use, be sure to start the seeds during the month of March. If the seeds are hardy (check the package for details) you can plant them directly outdoors. Don't forget to provide some protection from rabbits, or the next time you check the seedlings they may not be there.

° When weather permits, cut back ornamental grasses or flowering plants that were kept taller for winter garden color and interest. Cut ornamental grasses down to at least 12 inches from the base. Prune rose bushes, small shrubs, and any climbing vines. If you plan to add rose bushes in containers, keep an eye on the weather and sneak it in on a warm day. Summer blooming perennials should also be planted in March, but only if they are a hardy size. It is still too early to plant seedlings outdoors.

° Clean up the yard and garden areas and dispose of any left over leaves. Don't simply cover leaves with mulch - damp leaves are a breeding ground for garden-eating bugs and mosquitoes.

° Depending on the region, narcissi, daffodils and other bulb plants bloom from late winter to early spring. If you don't see signs of them in the garden now you soon will. Be sure to fertilize the bulbs as soon as leaves appear above the soil. Once bulb plants start to die, cut off the flowers, but wait six weeks before cutting leaves and stems.

° If your lawn is disheveled it won't matter how spectacular your garden is, so be sure to fertilize and reseed any bare areas.

° Finally, scrub down any garden stones covered with algae or garden decorations left out through the winter.

Gardening Tasks for April

° During April, continue to care for seeds you started in March, and if need be plant more seedlings indoors.

° April can bring harsh storms and winds, so secure climbing plants or fragile rose bush branches. Twist the vines and branches to decorative spikes or lattice to keep vines from breaking in the wind. Add decorative stakes to tall, top heavy plants like delphiniums, hollyhocks, and cone flowers. Some variations of Shasta Daisies need stakes as well.

° April is a very important month for your rose bushes. If you want bold and beautiful rose bushes in July you have to fertilize, prune, mulch, and be on the lookout for bugs in April.

° If April isn't full of showers, trim shrubs in the garden and landscaped areas of the yard.

° If rhododendron flowers were not trimmed from last year, be sure to dead head them by April. (That is, if they haven't already blown down the block during a bad storm.) If you plan to add additional evergreen shrubs to the garden, April is the month to do so. Actually, any shrub or perennial can be added this month that thrives in soil with an acid pH.

° Rudbeckia (black-eyed susans), Shasta Daisies and aster are three popular garden perennials. Not all gardeners are aware that you can divide these plants as they age. Yay, more plants to plant! The time to do that is, you guessed it, April. In the summer and fall months, make a note in your garden journal about plants you feel can be divided the following spring. That will help you keep track.

° Be sure to till and hoe the garden soil to prevent weeds from growing, or from taking away nutrients from seedlings.

° If you should have a late winter frost or snow storm, cover flowering plants with plastic and secure with bricks or buckets of sand. As long as the soil is the proper temperature, your plants should be fine.

° Plant phlox, thyme and other alpines.

° If soil temperatures permit, plant sunflower.

Gardening Tasks for May

° Continue gardening tasks covered in previous months. This includes caring for seedlings, weeding, and trimming.

° Plant hydrangeas, fuchsia and other shrubs that prefer warmer weather. As the lovely to look at azaleas bloom, be sure to deadhead daily so new flowers have room. Do the same for rhododendrons and other flowering bushes in your garden.

° Check the pH level of soil and make adjustments as needed.

° Walk the garden area and look for overcrowded areas, or overgrown plants that may be blocking others from the sun. If needed, trim plants or thin out areas by replanting elsewhere. If areas of garden weed barrier ripped over the winter, apply a new barrier sheet to the area. Add mulch to your entire garden area.

° Plant annuals within the garden, in containers, and as borders. You can plant annuals in April or March if the soil temperature is right. Be sure to regularly deadhead annuals to promote new growth.

° When the wind blows, seeds from lawn weeds are carried to garden areas where they take root. Continue to mow the lawn and add weed killer.

° Add homemade or store bought slug traps throughout your garden.

° Of course, don't forget to care for your indoor seedlings, to check plants for diseases, add protection against rabbits, and document anything of note in your garden journal.

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/gardenjournal1

Use Colour to Change Space

2009-03-05T16:40:00.000-08:00

INTRODUCTION
The Designer's Lesson

You know the formula by heart: warm colors advance and cool colors recede.
The advice that usually follows this statement is to paint the walls a cool color if you want a room to seem larger; if you want it to feel smaller, bathe the walls with a warm hue. Unfortunately, it isn't that simple.

A bold green or blue can pull in the walls around you just as effectively as the warmest red, while a soft yellow can make the walls seem to dissolve, enhancing the sense of space. It's a matter of value -- lightness or darkness -- and intensity (how saturated or pure a color is) as much as temperature.

Mood Changes and More: In general, lighter, paler, or less intense colors will enlarge the apparent space; darker or more intense colors will shrink it. The impact of color on space is also a question of mood. Color affects your mood, which in turn affects your perception of a space and your comfort level in it.

Remember, too, that neighboring colors affect each other. If you juxtapose two colors, the eye will perceive them to be as different from each other as possible.
Complements -- colors that lie directly opposite each other on the color wheel -- intensify each other. If you use red and green in a room together, the red will seem more red and the green will appear more green.

Every scheme needs a dollop of contrast to intrigue the eye and to feel balanced and lively. When you work with complements, you automatically have that contrast. An analogous scheme of warm or cool colors will require the addition of an element of the opposite temperature to give the scheme punch.

COLOR VALUE
Light and Dark

Value refers to how light or dark a color is; among all colors, yellow is the lightest value, and purple is the darkest.

When you want to alter the sense of space in a room, use low-value (dark) colors to draw the walls in around you. Use high-value (light) colors to push them away and make a room appear a bit larger.

Every color can range from light to dark, so you can use your favorite hue to shrink a room or expand it by choosing the appropriate value.

CONTRAST
Focal Points Pop

High contrast between a room's walls and its architectural features outlines the room's boundaries and calls attention to its shape and size. If the room is generous, you'll notice the size more; if it's diminutive, you'll be more aware of that too.

Furnishings that stand out sharply against the wall color also help define the space more precisely. Ocean blue walls contrast briskly with white woodwork and upholstery, sharpening awareness of the dimensions and limits of the space.

A bold golden yellow, on the other hand, blends with gold-color accessories, painted furniture, and white woodwork and upholstery, enlarging the sense of space even though the color is deep and warm.

COLOR CAMOUFLAGE
Create Dimensions

If you're faced with a boxy room that feels boring, try a multicolor palette to change the proportions. How do you choose a palette for this kind of illusionism? As a general rule, plan on either a warm or an intense color for the wall you wish to bring forward and either a cool or a subdued color for the walls you wish to push apart.

In a long, narrow hall, for example, painting the end wall coral and the corridor walls sage can visually shorten the corridor because the coral will advance visually. Conversely, a short hall will seem longer if you paint the end wall a lighter color and the corridor walls a darker one.

For a starting point in choosing specific colors, consider your givens. If a piece of furniture (such as a red sofa) is a focal point, then choosing its complement (green) for the nearest wall will intensify both colors and draw the eye toward that part of the room.

For the remaining walls, select a light value of a color that appears in other furnishings or in an architectural feature. For the ceiling, decide whether you want to lower or raise it and choose your color accordingly.

No matter how effectively you select colors for this kind of space-altering approach, using different hues on each wall and the ceiling breaks up the space and may easily create visual chaos.

Decorating with planes of color -- changing hues wherever one plane meets another -- is an option best suited to those who enjoy the stimulation of lots of color in their environment.

Alter the Sense of Space

Lofts and new homes with open plans and cathedral ceilings offer similar architectural challenges for homeowners. If your living room, kitchen, and office all share one large, undivided space, can you use more than one color? And if so, where do you stop one color and start the next?

In traditional homes, cased openings, columns, and pilasters provide natural boundaries for starting and stopping colors. To develop a palette, pull out colors from your home's furnishings that will blend rather than match exactly. Start with a rug or fabric that offers three or four compatible colors. Include both warm and cool hues and keep them in the same tonal range.

To map out where you'll apply each color, think about creating a sense of movement through successive spaces by arranging the colors from warm to cool or vice versa.

Also consider the light that each space receives. Natural light changes the appearance of any color. To gauge the impact of light on your chosen colors, buy a quart of each color and brush the paint onto large pieces of poster board. Tape the poster board to the walls to observe how the colors change throughout the day and by lamplight.

http://www.bhg.com/decorating/color/basics/use-color-to-change-space/?page=1

A Few Ways to Add Curb Appeal...In a Day

2009-02-05T15:39:00.000-08:00

...Create perfect symmetry
Symmetry is not only pleasing to the eye, it's also the simplest to arrange. Symmetrical compositions of light fixtures and front-door accents create welcoming entryways. This door is flanked by two sidelights. The black lantern-style sconces not only safely guide visitors to the door, but also coordinate with the black door and urns.

Replace old hardware...
House numbers, the entry door lockset, a wall-mounted mailbox, and an overhead light fixture are all elements that can add style and interest to your home's exterior. If they're out of date or dingy, your home may not be conveying the aesthetic you think it is. These elements add the most appeal when they function collectively, rather than as mix-and-match pieces. Oiled-bronze finishes suit traditional homes, while brushed nickel suits more contemporary ones.

...Install outdoor lighting
Low-voltage landscape lighting makes a huge impact on your home's curb appeal while also providing safety and security. Fixtures can add accent lighting to trees or the house or can illuminate a walking path. If you aren't able to use lights that require wiring, install solar fixtures (but understand that their light levels are not as bright or as reliable).

Create an instant garden...
Container gardens add a welcoming feel and colorful appeal to any home exterior -- quickly and affordably. You can buy ready-made containers from garden centers or create your own with your favorite plants. For most landscapes, a staggered, asymmetrical arrangement works best to create a dynamic setting.

...Renew planter beds

Get garden beds into shape by pruning growth, pulling weeds, planting flowers, and adding new mulch to restore color that was taken away by sunlight and harsh weather. If stone or brick borders your bed, consider cleaning and resetting any pieces that are soiled or dislodged. If your border is old or tired-looking, try upgrading to stone or a decorative cast-concrete edging system.

http://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/exteriors/curb-appeal/ways-to-add-curb-appeal/?page=1

BLACK and WHITE Update

2009-01-28T15:51:00.000-08:00

A MODERN EXPERIMENT

Citrus green paired with black and white creates an energetic, modern environment, even when used with eclectic furnishings. Try hanging black-and-white papers in exciting patterns on a narrow magnetic board or bulletin board for an inexpensive and unstudied work of art.

BOLD AND BEAUTIFUL

Black trim adds sophistication to the playful blue beaded board walls in this entryway, but a graphic paint treatment on the door keeps it bold and fun. A neutral rug ties the look together without overwhelming the space.

MUTED AND MARVELOUS

When pairing black and white with a beige wall, gravitate toward creamy whites. The simple lines of this classically upholstered armchair complement the minimalist artwork while the rosy-toned throw grounds the eye with a place to rest.

http://www.bhg.com/decorating/color/neutrals/black-and-white-update/?page=1

Colin & Justin: Avoid bathroom renovation disasters!

2009-01-08T15:44:00.000-08:00

5 bathroom renovation no-nos and how to avoid them
The bathroom's importance should never be underestimated. Often, it's in this smallest room that we get the chance to make the biggest impact. Besides enhancing your quality of life, a great bathroom will also bolster the saleability of your property. When putting together a look during bathroom renovations, think about two elements: convenience and comfort. For convenience, try to create efficient wash, makeup and hairstyling areas; for comfort, establish a restful, well-decorated haven for yourself. No longer just a place to wash and go, our bathrooms can provide sanctuary from the stresses and strains of the outside world. You owe it to yourself to get it right!

1 Carpets
Carpets are harbingers of, ahem, fluids, so opt for wipe-clean surfaces like stone or ceramic. The worst case of bathroom carpeting we've seen was in a tiny London home where the owners had gone potty (excuse the bathroom pun) and carpeted the floor, bath panel and even window ledges.

2 Coloured suites
Hell's bells, when will people learn? Bathroom suites can be any colour -- as long as they're white. That means a resounding no to avocado, beige and any offensive pastels. While filming How Not To Decorate, we encountered a bathroom with four different colour schemes: a bath so green it looked like Kermit the Frog exploded in it, a toffee-colour bath panel, a marshmallow pink toilet and, to top the lot, a navy sink with golden taps. When pressed to explain the error of her ways, our style-challenged homeowner proffered that on the lookout to save money, she'd bought (in various stages) sanitary wares through local newspaper ads -- regardless of colour. Stick to white, and introduce colour via tiling, flooring and accessories, instead. Listen to no one who tells you that avocado is back in style!

3 Cheap laminate flooring
Let us tell you about The Weetabix Bathroom. As part of Colin & Justin's Home Heist, we tackled a bathroom renovation in Oshawa, Ont., that initially didn't look too bad. But we discovered a cardinal sin: cheap laminate flooring. You see, those bargain-bin deals are not what they're cracked up to be. Some laminates are little more than a photograph of wood grain glued to compressed fibre board or chipboard. And what happens when you add water? They expand -- just like Weetabix does when you add milk. So take a tip: invest in the best and opt for water-resistant products like bamboo or teak.

4 Toiletries on display
The Bilious Bathroom! Who wants to see your every ailment? Not us! Just before we left our beloved Britain for Canada, we were visiting friends for dinner. In the bathroom, we noticed an open-front cabinet that positively groaned under the weight of tonics, tinctures, pills and potions for all manner of -- mostly unmentionable -- conditions. We actually made our excuses and left. We simply didn't fancy dinner cooked by those potentially afflicted hands. Our advice is simple: mix open storage with closed so your Chanel toiletries will be on display but your hemorrhoid creams won't. It's all about piles of style rather than, well, just piles!

5 Wallpaper
OK, OK -- these days manufacturers offer wallpapers that can live with humidity without any problems. But we tend to avoid papering our bathroom projects as there are so many fab paints on the market that effortlessly deal with hot and steamy areas. The last thing you want is for that glamorous and expensive paper to peel off as soon as you run your first bath. We like to add extra colour and drama with towels, changeable artworks and an assortment of storage boxes and jars, all of which can be rearranged or amended as tastes change.

By Colin McAllister and Justin Ryan
http://www.styleathome.com/kitchen-and-bath/bathroom/colin-and-justin-avoid-bathroom-renovation-disasters/a/942

The Basics of Using Patterns in Home Decorating

2008-12-18T16:17:00.000-08:00

Pattern refers to the way colors lines and textures are arranged in an object. While the word pattern generally refers to something which repeats itself, such as a checkerboard, in decorating terms it can just refer to the layout of design elements, and can be quite chaotic, such as in a floral pattern.
In decorating, patterns can be used for several purposes.

- You can use it to create a focal point in a room.

- You can use it to create a theme throughout a space.

- It can add interest to an otherwise dull space.

- Or you can use it to reproduce a particular historical style.

Traditional patterns are generally taken from historical decorating schemes. Chintz is often associated with English decorating, while calico patterns have a strong association with country style. Contemporary patterns are being designed everyday, but are usually based roughly on traditional ideas.

Picking Patterns

Other people prefer to have a plan. Maybe you are trying to recreate a traditional look, or maybe you are trying to achieve a specific ambience. Whatever your goal, you should remember the following tips when panning your strategy.

- Small rooms should use smaller more intricate patterns, which will fill the space with more interest.

- Large rooms should use grand patterns, that stretch out throughout the space and keep the room in proportion.

- Use your patterns to add interest to places that lack architectural features.

- Make sure your pattern is matched to the style of the houses architecture. If your
home is a grand old Victorian you don’t want to create a confusing décor with contemporary silver geometric lines.

You can use some patterns on everything in a room, the walls, furnishings, floors, and accessories. However the room will be immersed in the very particular ambiance created by the pattern, so be careful of overwhelming yourself with anything you won’t love for a long time.

Traditional pattern decorating is done with a single pattern, being matched against a solid background. In this way a boring white room is given vibrant life by a series of brightly upholstered chairs.

Mixing patterns with different colors and with other patterns can be a little tricky. You have to both create harmony between all of the different colors, and create contrast to give the space interest.

- Mixing patterns is tough! Start with just one or two, decide how you feel about them together, and then add more.

- Try to maintain one dominant pattern, and let the others act as support.

- Use patterns which have a single consistent color that runs through all of them

When working with patterns, many people find it useful to use a board, and samples of the various patterns, to get an idea for how they feel together. You can use samples of cloth from the store, matched with paint chips, and magazine clippings.
Set several patterns up together, and then leave them on the board for a couple of days, so you can see how you really react to them.

The most important thing when using pattern is to be willing to change your mind. If a pattern doesn’t feel right, or stops feeling right after a time, then you have to get rid of it. Patterns can create powerful feelings in a space, and you have to pay attention and be aware of those feelings in order to control the ambience of the room.

http://www.pioneerthinking.com/jl_patterns.html

Indoor Decorating Projects Under $1000

2008-12-11T16:59:00.001-08:00

Homeowners don't need to have a big budget to give their home a remodel straight out of the magazines. Any ambitious do-it-yourselfer can have a room looking sleek and chic for under $1000. Remodeling with a budget in mind saves money, and can also increase the resale value of your home.

Painting the interior can change the mood of your house, especially uplifting your spirits during the cold season. Painting your house is a home improvement project that's easy on your budget if you do it yourself. Don't buy the most expensive paint on the market; expensive doesn't necessarily mean good quality paint. An estimate of how much you will spend painting just one room that is approximately 350 square feet will be $50-$200, including necessary supplies of rollers, paint roller tray, duct tape and paint brushes. Other materials such as a drop cloth, paint bucket, or rags are optional. Instead of buying a drop cloth, you can use old blankets that you don't mind getting paint on, or cardboard. Rags can be replaced with old towels or damp paper towels, and paint buckets will only be necessary if you plan to mix paints for faux painting. Remember your price will increase as you add more rooms to your painting plan, and other areas such as trims, windows, doors, etc.

Another cost-effective way to remodel a room or your home is to wallpaper instead of paint. Wallpapering can suit anyone's need and budget, setting a mood and adding elegance to a room. Choosing the right wallpaper can make a room appear larger or smaller, providing an illusion of height for a room with low ceilings. Wallpapering can also add a design and pattern that is difficult to replicate with paint. The average price for a single roll of wall covering is about $12. The price is affected by the type of wall covering, how elaborate the design, the exclusivity of the design, and designer name. For more wallpapering information, check out our wallpapering how-to projects.

Vinyl flooring is an affordable upgrade that can be made to any room, and is especially suited to a kitchen or bathroom. Vinyl floors are easy to install and come in many styles, colors, sizes, and patterns to complement any décor. You can buy vinyl flooring in sheets or tiles. Vinyl tiles are comfortable, easy to clean, and skid resistant. For do-it-yourself installation, click visit our section on vinyl flooring.

Adding shelves to a room or closet can help eliminate clutter. Shelves in any room can be used to display collectibles, ornaments or pictures, and hold CDs, DVDs, books and toys. Shelves can be put anywhere, including in the corners, to add a sophisticated look. They are cost-effective and a cost-efficient investment that come in different styles, sizes, colors and materials to make any room look appealing.

Accessories such as candles, pillows, cushions, and artwork can add to the theme of a room without costing much. Accessories, when not cluttered together, can enrich your personal style as well as be inviting enough for guest to stop and look. Use candles to make your house smell fresh. Since they come in various colors, it's easy to match them to any décor. Pillows or cushions are good for a bedroom and living or family room, and can make any sofa or chairs look like new. You can change the color, design, and styles to whatever mood you are in. A plain wall will make any room look boring, but by adding artwork as the focal point of your theme or décor, you can make a room pleasant and enjoyable for everyone.

by Margareth Montenegro
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/budget1000

Winter Home Improvement Projects

2008-12-04T15:32:00.000-08:00

During the long months of winter when exterior home improvement projects are on hold, you'll find plenty to do indoors. Warmer months aren't the only times to work on home improvement projects. Instead of spending time during the spring, summer, or fall working on interior home improvement projects, save them for winter. The following are some of the many home improvement projects you can work on during the cold months of winter, and staying busy will help winter fly by faster than you ever expected. Before you know it summer will be here, and many of your home improvement projects will be complete.

Flooring
Are your carpets looking worse for wear, or have you always wanted hardwood or ceramic tile floors? Winter is the perfect time to complete these types of indoor home improvement projects. If you have the necessary skills to lay carpet, install hardwood floors, or install ceramic tile flooring, by all means do it yourself and save a considerable amount of money. Otherwise, shop around for the best prices on flooring and installation. Winter is one of the best times to find the lowest prices on flooring of all types.

Window Treatments
Window treatments become tired looking after several years of sunlight and use. If your window treatments are due for an update, start shopping around this winter. Replacing window treatments is one of the easiest and home improvement projects you can do yourself, and it's also one of the most noticeable and least expensive. Search your local department or discount stores for window treatments such as blinds, shades, curtains, draperies, and valances, or shop online to obtain the best prices and the widest selection from the comfort of your home.

Painting and Wallpapering
Who says you can't paint and wallpaper during the coldest months of the year? Latex paint these days isn't terribly odorous and fumes are barely detectable indoors. Wallpaper paste is also virtually odor-free. Just allow a small amount of ventilation in the room where you're painting or wallpapering to bring in adequate fresh air, and keep fans running to dry paint and wallpaper paste quickly. If necessary, turn up the heat to keep the room warm and to help dry the paint or wallpaper paste faster. Painting and wallpapering are great winter home improvement projects. Take your time, and once spring and summer roll around, you'll be ready to begin your outdoor home improvement and painting projects.

Lighting
Many people aren't impressed with construction-grade lighting, and they eventually opt for more stylish light fixtures and ceiling fans. If you're looking for winter home improvement projects, consider changing unattractive, uninteresting, and outdated light fixtures and ceiling fans. These days you'll find hundreds of options to choose from. Visit your local home improvement store to view a vast display of choices, or shop online and have the light fixtures and ceiling fans of your choice delivered directly to your door. It's really very easy to install ceiling fans and light fixtures. If in doubt, visit HGTV for complete step-by-step instructions and clear color photos.

Organizing
I don't know anyone who doesn't need to organize at least one area of their home, and this is one of the easiest home improvement projects you can work on during winter when outdoor projects are on hold. Even the neatest most organized people have at least one closet, dresser, or cabinet that needs a little revamping or organization. Take advantage of the extra time on your hands during winter to better organize your closets, drawers, cabinets, or any other storage areas. You might discover things you forgot you had, and you'll find it much easier to access items you use on a regular basis.

By Crystal Ray
http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/404112/winter_home_improvement_projects.html?page=2&cat=6

Colin and Justin's 12 Quick-Fix Solutions for Holiday Decorating

2008-11-27T16:01:00.000-08:00

We love to entertain, particularly during the holidays. And for us, creating atmosphere is a critical starting point for everything that comes thereafter -- just try getting into the party mood if you haven't properly decked your halls. Try these 12 seasonal styling tips. Simple, but, hey, even at Christmas less is more!

1 Nothing sets the scene better than sweet aromas wafting through the air. Try scented candles -- these days, even supermarkets sell an assortment of fabulous olfactory delights. Or, back in bonny Scotland, we have an old but favourite trick: chuck a couple of vanilla pods into your log fire to promote mood.

2 As an alternative to standard name cards, tie Christmas gift tags displaying guests' names around the stems of wineglasses.

3 Wrap oranges with a cross of red ribbon and stud the flesh with cloves. Instantly gorgeous, and they smell better each day. After Christmas, once the oranges are completely dry, pop some into the back of your wardrobe to freshen your clothes.

4 Forget tradition -- indulge your senses with whatever colour combos you like. We're currently working on a festive aqua and silver living room and a marshmallow pink and duck-egg blue dining room.

5 Use gold- or silver-ink pens to write guests' names on extra-large leaves like those from a castor oil plant, and use as chargers under side plates.

6 Slip lottery tickets inside store-bought Christmas crackers as an extra surprise.

7 Arrange a snaking line of brightly coloured votive holders (with flickering candles in each) down the centre of your dining table. Simple but very effective.

8 Arrange white Christmas lights in a favourite glass vase as an instant conversation starter. Simply switch on and let the twinkling begin!

9 IKEA sells gorgeous glass prisms that will add sparkle to pretty much anything you like. Using fishing line, hang them from your tree or a light fixture, or arrange in an artistic grouping at your window.

10 To create a minimalist display, spray dried flowers white and silver, and arrange inside a large, clear tank vase filled with white pebbles.

By Colin McAllister and Justin Ryan
http://www.styleathome.com/homes/interiors/colin-and-justin-s-12-quick-fix-solutions-for-holiday-decorating/a/1137

Colorwashing Walls

2008-11-27T15:56:00.000-08:00

The technique of colorwashing walls is easy to master. In addition, it adds soft-focus color to your room and visual interest to your walls. If your wall has blemishes, scrapes, or other imperfections, colorwashing may be the answer to your problem. In heavily trafficked areas like hallways, or in bathrooms where humidity can effect the appearance of walls, the gentle color variations of colorwashing can make any wear less noticeable.

Use a 1:1 ratio of latex paint and wallpaper paste. The color of the base coat, as well as the intensity of the top coat, will effect the overall look, so you may want to test your mixture first to make sure it is what you really want.

Load the tip of a very wide brush with your latex-paste mixture and "dash" a few strokes onto the wall. Then, without reloading the brush, use side-to-side, diagonal sweeping brush motions (like you are making large, loose X's across your wall) to blend the paint evenly. You may also use a sponge to create the colorwash effect, but you will have to experiment with the sponge strokes depending upon the type and size of sponge you use. Finally, use a dry brush to blend any noticeable seams.

Colorwashing with two layers can add subtlety of color and even more interest to your walls. Again, you may wish to experiment with color layers before you apply the color so that you can achieve the desired effect on the first try.

To colorwash with two layers, simply follow the above steps twice, allowing the first coat of paint to dry before starting on the second. A lighter color on top of a darker color will soften the effect of the darker color. Two complimentary colors similar to each other on a color wheel can produce a new, vibrant shade.

Colorwashing can be done quickly and easily to disguise imperfect walls with a sophisticated finish. It's fun and requires only materials and application tools.

By Dorothy Edison
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/colorwashing

Mirror, Mirror, On the Wall...

2008-11-06T17:05:00.000-08:00

Want a way to catch and reflect light in your home? Nothing does it better than a mirror. Mirrors are great for creating an illusion of space. Mirrors have been used to make commercial buildings look more spacious, and these same techniques can be used successfully in your own home.

Try the following "decorating with mirrors" tips:

*If you have a wall in front of the entrance as you enter your home, then hang a unique mirror on that wall to open it up and add interest to the area.

*Try staggering mirrors on either side of a narrow hallway or stairway to give the illusion of width.

*To make a hallway or stairway appear longer, try positioning a mirror at the end which will double its length.

*Wrought iron mirrors are popular and can be used as a home decor accent with most decorating styles.

*Collections of unusual mirrors can be used behind a sofa or in a hallway. They can be arranged in groupings or combined with paintings.

*You can use several hinged mirrors placed together behind candles or flowers on a mantle or table, thus "multiplying" the effect of your decorative accents.

*As with your artwork, choosing the right frame for your mirror makes a world of difference. The frame adds to the look of the mirror and enhances the space around it.

*The use of long, tall mirrors spaced across a wall is a nice change from the more traditional wall-to-wall mirrors.

*Make sure mirrors reflect only attractive objects. Do not place a mirror directly across from a waste basket or cluttered area. Try placing it across from a window, a lamp, or a favorite painting.

*Miniature mirrors can be used as a decorative touch on throw pillows, curtains and placemats.

*Put a mirror on the ceiling of kitchen cabinets or the pantry which will help you see what's on the top shelf.

*Mirrors can also be used in the dining room to showcase your table decor. Use a mirror instead of a placement at each place setting. They will naturally draw attention to your table and by using bright and decorative dishes you will create a stunning display.

*Since mirrors come in all shapes and sizes, they offer limitless decorating possibilities.

*Make a mirror the focal point in a room. Consider investing in a really unique, classy mirror and frame that complements the rest of the decor in the room.

*Remember to hang mirrors at a usable height!

by Lynn Cressy
http://orca-painting.ca/articles/articles_7.htm

Color Terms You Need To Know When Decorating

2008-10-30T16:05:00.000-07:00

Color is the key to successful decorating. You can have the most expensive furnishings you can find, but without the right color scheme, they mean nothing. Color can work magic in a room by taking disparate furnishings and uniting them with color.

Adding color to a room is quite inexpensive. A new color of paint and fabrics can totally change a room.

The human eye can perceive approximately 10 million different colors. Just imagine all of the different color combinations that can be created. Even so, some color combinations are definitely better than others.

When looking at colors, there are eleven different terms that you should know:

1. Primary colors are the three main colors that every other color is made from: red, blue and yellow. Primary colors are often used in children's rooms because they are bright and will catch a child's attention.

2. Secondary colors are the colors that are created when you combine equal parts of the three primary colors. The color orange comes from red and yellow; green is from yellow and blue; and violet is from blue and red.

3. Tertiary colors are the result of combining a primary color with the nearest secondary color to it on the color wheel. The colors would appear as blue-green, yellow-green, yellow-orange, red-purple, and blue-purple.

4. Related color schemes result from combining secondary and tertiary colors. For instance, the colors blue-green and green will evoke a calming effect because there are no jarring changes in color.

5. Complementary colors are located directly opposite each other on the color wheel. They would turn gray when they are mixed together in paint, but they can be used together - carefully - when decorating a room. Sometimes these color combinations can be too overwhelming so care is needed when using them.

6. Hue is a descriptive word for color, such as leaf green, robin's egg blue or burgundy.

7. Saturation means how saturated (how much color) there is in the basic color. For example, light blue and navy are both still blue. Navy is more saturated with the blue color.

8. The value of a color is how light or dark a color is. White has the brightest value and black has the darkest value.

9. Tints represent the colors that are closest to white in value. These would be pastel colors.

10. Shades are the colors that are closest to black in color, like hunter green or deep purple.

11. Neutrals are the "non" colors, like black, white, gray, brown and beige. They can produce a pleasing color scheme on their own or mixed with other colors.

Color plays an important part in decorating. The entire feel of a room can be changed just by changing the color scheme.

By Jude Wright
http://orca-painting.ca/articles/articles_5.htm

Bamboo Flooring - Top Ten Benefits

2008-10-23T15:49:00.000-07:00

In recent years, bamboo flooring has emerged as one of the most popular new flooring styles, and it's easy to see why. Bamboo floors have been widely used in the Pacific Rim for decades, and America has seen bamboo's benefits for years in furniture and home accessories, so it's natural that its usage as flooring is catching up to us now. Its wide range of style and ease of maintenance gives the pro-bamboo crowd a lot to cheer about.

Renewable resource. Unlike many of the hardwood floors available on the market today, which can take tremendous amounts of time to reforest, bamboo grows abundantly both here and abroad, and it replenishes very fast. Conservationists will certainly enjoy this aspect of the material. The leftover leaves and shoots are utilized as a food source for livestock both here in the U.S. and in Asia.

Easy upkeep. While no flooring surface is completely maintenance free, some are better than others, and bamboo has a better resiliency than softer floors like pine or vinyl. A bamboo floor, despite its rapid growth, proves to be extremely strong when cured and can handle the elements and high traffic areas. Additionally, bamboo floors need to be refinished as, if not less, frequently than other popular flooring surfaces.

Easy to install. While there are several ways to install bamboo flooring, one popular option is the beloved "floating floor," an adhesive-less installation that entails a puzzle-like process of connecting mitered sections of plank flooring. This means the average homeowner can single-handedly install a large section of flooring in a weekend. While professional flooring contractors still recommend face-nailing and sub-floor installation, this floating floor option really opens up bamboo flooring to the masses.

Cost. The cost of bamboo flooring can vary greatly, depending on grade, finish, material percentage, veneer, etc. The entire spectrum of cost is well represented, from the high grade, imported solid bamboo planks, to the veneered floating floors available today at home improvement stores. Another cost-saver is the option of self-installation. That particular cost saving can be tremendous, depending on the application.

Style points. Style counts, and when it comes to bamboo floors, style is what it’s about. From its mellow light hues and colors, to its widely varying grains, bamboo can match almost any décor. Bamboo is typically very light, almost white in finish, but can be found tinted and finished in a dark color, which is more widely used in the North East and colonial settings. Another option is the finish; while bamboo is most commonly seen in a high gloss finish, matte and semi-gloss varieties can found, further enhancing its wide options. The many varieties of bamboo allow consumers to tailor the finish and colors of their floor to their specific needs, which puts bamboo ahead of some traditional flooring options.

Adaptability. Bamboo is one of the most adaptable flooring options available today. While some materials require lots of prep work to the subfloor, bamboo can be laid over a much wider variety of surfaces. Where a laminate may be needed for a vinyl or tile material, much less expensive plywood is a more than adequate surface for bamboo to be affixed to. Bamboo is far less sensitive to temperature changes than many other materials, like stone, tile or vinyl. While many materials are relegated to fair climate installations only, bamboo can be installed virtually anywhere.

Material Handling. For some hardwood materials, like mahogany or oak, handling and cutting can prove to be a chore in itself. This isn’t the case for bamboo; general hand tools, cross cut saws, compound miter saws and dovetail saws are perfect for finishing a home project like this. There is no need to use hardwood saws - despite its strength, bamboo is relatively easy to cut, and available in shorter sections so you can maneuver it easily around your work site. Some flooring houses also offer larger sections of bamboo for a more linear look. It’s an option that's really more for those whose work space is wide open, or can be adapted.

Strength. In Japan, bamboo has historically been used for industrial scaffolding, so it's certainly more than strong enough for your family's flooring needs. Its natural make-up has proven it able to carry countless times its own weight, and that converts into a flooring surface which is virtually unbreakable. While it's rare to find a flooring surface stronger than concrete (and by no means is bamboo stronger than concrete), bamboo gives it a run for its money in weight-to-strength ratio. If you are looking for a reasonably strong, lightweight floor, bamboo might be a viable option.

Durability. People instantly think of tile or marble when they are looking for a durable flooring surface, but bamboo can certainly be considered a top contender for longest lasting. Like any floor, it will eventually gain a nice patina, and if cared for, will start to warm and meld into a variety of tones and hues that add a lot of charm to floors. If you look at some of the vintage floors in Asia, where bamboo is widely used, you can see how over time the surface becomes its own gallery of smooth mottled tones and really enhances the décor of any home.

Material Availability. Since its increase in recent popularity, bamboo has gone from a difficult to find and somewhat obscure material, to a widely available surface found at almost any home improvement center. Originally, if you were looking to install bamboo in your home, you had to search high and low, in flooring houses and lumber yards. Now it’s virtually everywhere, and being used in such high volume that your choices of manufacturer and vendor are virtually unlimited.

With these points brought to light, it’s easy to see how bamboo flooring is becoming one of the leading flooring surfaces available today. From its wide adaptability and durability to its cost effectiveness, bamboo has something to offer everyone.

By Sean O'Halloran
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/bamboofeaturebenefit

Chinese Red!

2008-10-02T16:49:00.000-07:00

What better way to kick out the mid-winter blues than with blue's opposite on the color wheel, red? And what better red than this one, Chinese red, a red that stands up to any other color in its midst, even the steely gray of a February sky.

There are, as you know, many shades of red, simmering on the gradiant stove of color, from a dusky rose to the deepest maroon. Chinese red is not to be mistaken for any of these; there isn't anything watered down or tempered about Chinese red. While a maroon has more blue than Chinese red, and tomato red more orange, Chinese red is simply one thing - red!

This is the fire-cracker red that you see used for Chinese lanterns, used in the Chinese New Year's parades, or for the bright moon doorways in the fronts of homes in Shanghai. In China, red is a lucky color, so it's often used to bring luck into a household. As the Chinese New Year falls on Februrary 12th, bringing us out of the Year of the Snake and into the Year of the Horse, you can look for Chinese red at New Year's festivities in your city's Chinatown.

It's all well and good to have a giant Chinese dragon snaking down Mott Street, but what interior could possibly handle such a strong color? Certainly Chinese red is so strong you wouldn't use it for any large pieces in a room, and using it for wall color would take a kind of courage few of us can maintain.

But what Chinese red is perfect for is trim and accent, those dashing color swaths that bring a room back to life. If your walls are white or off-white, how about adding crown molding in Chinese red, for a crisp Valentine look? Or if your room has shades of yellow and blue, a little dash can bring in a Mexican tone, calling to mind sun-washed patio tiles of bright red and yellow.

When you're thinking of using a strong color, remember to take into consideration the material with which it will be used. A pair of light, silky curtains in Chinese red won't overwhelm the other colors of the room, as light will filter through them, making them appear lighter without diluting the richness of the color. The heavier the material used, the more attention it will draw in a room, so that a wooden bookcase painted Chinese red will stand out more than a satin cushion tossed on the sofa will.
Are there any colors that you should avoid mixing with Chinese red? One of the ironies with strong color is that they can actually be mixed quite successfully with other colors, even those that are somewhat unexpected. Greens, oranges, yellows, blues, and any white or off white works, and Chinese red paired with black will really snap a room to attention, even as the world outside seems to slumber through the rest of winter.

by Sarah Van Arsdale
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/chinesered

12 Ways to Cut Your Heating Bill and Reduce Your Carbon Footprint

2008-09-25T17:08:00.000-07:00

Whether your home is heated by gas, oil, or electricity, your hard-earned money and the earth’s precious natural resources could literally be going out the window. How? Your windows, chimney, and even your air conditioning window unit could be sucking the heat (or cold) right out of your house all year around. Roughly two-thirds of your energy bill goes into heating spaces and half of that energy is wasted. The following are 12 environmentally-friendly tips to help you lower your heating bill and conserve energy—from the basement to the attic.
1.Insulate your basement, attic and integral garage. Put insulation above unheated spaces. This means that if your basement is unheated, you’ll add insulation to the ceiling, which will keep the floors of your home a little warmer. In the attic, insulate the rafters or unventilated crawl spaces.

2.Insulate old water heaters and exposed hot water pipes. Heat could be escaping from older water heaters. As hot water runs through uninsulated pipes, it can cool. Buy insulation wrap and reduce your electric bill by as much as 20 dollars a year. (And, once that old hot water heater breaks, replace it with a more energy-efficient model.)

3.Turn the water heater down. Keep your hot water heating under a comfortable 120 degrees Fahrenheit.

4.Turn down the thermostat. Lowering the setting by 1 Celsius degree during the winter can save about 10 percent in energy use. Likewise, if you have air conditioning, raising the temperature by just a few degrees can reduce energy in the summer.

5.Install a programmable thermostat. You can set it to automatically control the temperature. If you aren’t home during the day, why keep your house warm and toasty?

6.Change furnace air filters every few months. A dirty filter can block warm air. If you have an old furnace, consider replacing it with a new energy-efficient model. This will save you money in the long run.

7.Take advantage of natural heat and light. During the day, leave the blinds open to let the warmth of the sun in. Use less electric lighting and instead work with natural light.

8. Close your window coverings at night. This will keep the heat in. If you have curtains or drapes, line them to keep the cold out.

9.Seal drafty windows. If you have single-pane windows, hang storm windows or seal them with plastic to keep the heat in. Double-pane windows are best for energy conservation, so if it is time to replace your windows, choose these. Additionally, caulk or weatherstrip any other openings.

10.Seal doors and close other openings. Feel a draft coming from your door? If you’ve already caulked and weatherstripped, consider putting a rolled up rug or towel in front of your door to stop the draft. Also, remember to seal the hatch to your attic, close your fireplace damper, and remove window air conditioning units. Heat could escape your house from there.

11.Use a humidifier. During the winter months, the air is very dry. Adding a humidifier to your home will cause cooler temperatures to feel warmer.

12.Turn on the ceiling fan. In the winter, reversing your ceiling fan will push warm air down.

Green to the extreme? Consider a different heating method.

*Under-floor heating is one of the most energy-efficient traditional methods. It has one of the highest Energy Star ratings.

*If you are willing to break away from traditional methods, look into solar water heating.

*Consider supplementing your traditional heating system with wood or pellet stoves. Though they are a blast from the past, they have a smaller carbon footprint than other kinds of heating systems. Before installing any wood or pellet burning stoves, check local regulations.

by Julie Young
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/reduce-your-heating-bill

Choose Hues Carefully: How Mood Can Be Altered With Color

2008-09-11T15:47:00.000-07:00

By Eva R. Marienchild

Did you know that color around your home, as in the paint you use, or the color of your sectionals - even the knick-knacks you’ve placed on bookshelves - influence your mood? There is absolutely no controversy about the fact that color can make you feel everything from serious … to scintillating.

Whether you’re intent on revamping the entire house, or just touching up a few rooms, consider choosing from the following “theme” colors:

Create a Business Mindset

When you invite clients over, have a deep plum or darkest blue on the walls and accessories. You might want to add prints on the walls that exhibit quite a bit of this color, too.

It will impress your prospects. In addition to encouraging business talk, most people associate these colors with conservatism - or stability - and wealth.

These hues will also help you get down to business, when you’ve been awarded that contract!

To Increase Concentration

If you need to focus and productivity is your issue, you’ll want to choose a golden curry color. Stand next to the swatch, if you’re in a design or paint store, and see if you feel energized, and motivated to work!

If your work is more intellectual - writing, editing, research, or the like - go for the deepest eggplant purple. Use a fringe shawl or a throw, in that color, to cover a sofa or ottoman, if you’ve got one.

Note: Do not go "off" that color scheme by even a thread. There are many tints of purple but, for these purposes, you do not want to throw in, say, a bright purple or a violet.

Here’s why: bright purple and/or violet stimulate the recollection of pleasant memories. You might even get a bit nostalgic. There are many places for such a mood, but a work station, for intellectual endeavors, isn’t one of them. Again, stick to dark eggplant for creative, brainy work.

To Resolve Controversy

When Dad and brother are at odds, ask them to take it to the special room you’ve dubbed the “Conflict Resolution Den”, where you’ll remove all the breakables, and let them each have their say. This room will have been painted a soothing, welcoming color, like a deep, rusty red, a rosewood, or a pumpkin color. Also, tones with a hue of pink in them will soften the ambience … and make the mood more accepting.

Ready to Entertain?

For a sparkling good time, go for either a limeade (sort of like a Lime Ricky color), or a raspberry, or even a plum rouge. Again, try standing next to the swatches in the design or paint store. You should feel bubbly, but with a purpose. This is a terrific color for a room that is going to be used to hold dinner parties in. It’s sure to attract stimulating conversation!

For Homework

If your children - or you - need a study room, you can’t go wrong with steel grey. To break up the grey, you can throw in aspects of dusty coral - a muted, soft hue. You might also want to add small throw pillows, or add desk accessories, in this tone. A different variation is to opt for gauzy silver - a less bold look.

Soul-to-Soul
Try a periwinkle or a toasted olive color - or a combination of both colors - when you are baring your soul to your significant other. These colors encourage frankness. You might also want to add nut brown accessories - anything the color of pecans. A large plant holder in that color would complement the periwinkle blue or toasted olive very nicely, and would contribute to the give-and-take.

Age and Color

Is there someone in your household who is over 65? Studies have shown that, in many people that age, the lens of the eye undergoes a bit of an alteration. As a result, “cool” colors like blue, blue-green, green and purple are seen with a yellowish or murky cast. Direct lighting should be used, to help the person see properly.

Try to avoid combinations of any of these cool colors, as that seems to worsen the problem.

Suggestion: If your loved one complains that colors seem fuzzy to her/him, try a bright lime on the wall, and a few lime-colored accessories, instead. That stirs up feeling of aliveness and activity. As an added benefit, it’ll make the person feel appreciated - like an important part of the household, again - and take their mind off their changing sight.

Hydronic Radiant Floor Heating

2008-09-04T16:20:00.000-07:00

Long ago, the Romans used radiant floor heating in their bathhouses. For centuries, the Koreans heated their royal palaces and traditional homes in this manner. Today, radiant heating technology has been improved and can be used in all or part of our homes.
What is radiant floor heating?
Radiant floor heating is a method of heating your home by applying heat underneath or within the floor. Comparable to warming yourself in the sun, this type of heating warms objects as opposed to raising the temperature of the air.
There are three types of radiant floor heating: hydronic, electric and air. This About Your House document focuses on hydronic (water) radiant floor heating.
Brought to North America post World War II, the first generation of North American systems met with several mechanical failures. The introduction of carpeted floors reduced the system efficiency. Today, significant improvements have been made in both the heating component and the system design.
Hydronic radiant floor heating is a system of plastic or metal tubes/pipes laid within a floor that carries hot water into specific rooms or “zones”, dispersing the heat through the floor surface.

The cooler water returns to the heat source where it is reheated and sent out again in what is known as a “closed-loop system”. The pipes can be encased in a concrete slab, a concrete or gypsum cement overpour, laid into thin grooved panels that nail on top of a subfloor, or suspended below a wooden subfloor using metal fins fastened under the floor surface. The heat output is determined by pipe spacing, water temperature, flow rate and floor covering. The heat output must be calculated to meet the heat loss demands of the home.

One type of tubing commonly used is a new leak-resistant, non-toxic, high temperature, flexible piping called cross-linked polyethylene (PEX). PEX is a durable tubing that doesn’t become brittle over time and isn’t affected by aggressive concrete additives or water conditions. PEX has been used in Europe since the 1970s and was introduced to North America in the early 1980s.

Is this type of heating available in both new and existing homes?
Yes. While the system can be easily designed and installed in new construction, homeowners wishing to renovate may incorporate hydronic radiant floor heating throughout the home, given certain conditions exist:
--the building structure can support the additional weight of the concrete/cement overpour, or
--the underside of the subfloor is accessible, or
--if being added to the basement, there is enough height for a concrete overpour above the insulation. (If the concrete floor is already insulated below, additional insulation is not necessary.)

Entire House Versus Selected Rooms
Homeowners can chose to install hydronic radiant floor heating throughout the house, or in selected rooms. The most popular rooms with this type of heating are the bathroom, kitchen and living room–rooms where the most time is spent. If only selected rooms have this type of heating, then a separate heating and ventilation system is required to heat the remainder of the home. The system can also be “zoned” so that there are temperature controls for each area.

Design

Prior to the installation of a system, a qualified floor-heating specialist should make a heating-load estimate of your home on a room-by-room basis. The heating-load estimate will assist in an efficient system design. By placing the tubing in specific patterns and spacings, the system can accommodate the insulation of the room/home and flooring choices.

Once designed and installed, a copy of the design should be given to the homeowner, should pipes/tubing need to be located at a later date. When renovating, extra care must be taken that piping or tubing not be punctured.

Exposed surfaces that conduct heat well are best for radiant floor heating, such as finished concrete or ceramic tile. It should be noted that if any later flooring renovation is undertaken, the hydronic radiant floor heating installer should be notified to make any required adjustments to the heating system. For example, the water temperature of the heating system would need to be adjusted if there was a change from a bare or painted finished floor slab to ceramic tile, or wood flooring or to carpet with underlay. Wood flooring and thick carpets act as an insulation blanket, restricting upward heat flow and reduce the efficiency of the system.

System Components
There are three components to this heating system: a heat source, a distribution piping system and controls. The heat source in hydronic radiant floor heating is usually a boiler or a hot water heater, but other heat sources can be used too. The energy used to heat the hot water can be natural gas, oil, electricity, propane, wood or solar hot water collection.

A circulator pump near the water supply manifold moves the water from the mixing valve to the supply manifold into the distribution piping system (tubing) inside the floors. Properly designed, this delivers even heat to rooms. A properly designed radiant floor system will not exceed 29ºC (85ºF).

To select how warm or cool a room or home will be, controls are required to set the system to a particular temperature. A manifold system with thermostat or aquastat switches typically located in an accessible wall cavity provides a series of simple valves that are used to regulate the flow of water through each zone. There is a caution not to exceed the recommended maximum temperature as it could warp solid hardwood flooring and cause stress to the system.

Installation
There are three choices of installation:
1. Slab-on-grade system: One example of a slab-on-grade system is PEX tubing attached to a wire mesh or clipped onto rigid Styrofoam insulation. Concrete is poured over the piping or tubing at the ground “grade” level. The slab must be insulated from the exterior side of the floor all the way to the slab edges.
2. Thin slab system:
a) The floor heating tubing is fastened above the subfloor and is covered with lightweight concrete or selflevelling gypsum cement underlayment. The floor ranges in thickness from 3.2 to 3.8 cm (1.25 to 1.5 in).
b) Another version is to sandwich the tubing between the subfloor and the finished floor. This raises the floor only 1.3 cm (1/2 in). There are a variety of new underlayment panels that hold the tubing in place and incorporate aluminum transfer plates to improve heating performance.
3. Dry or “Plate” system: Tubing is attached to the underside of the subfloor, also known as a belowdeck or joist space dry system. In cold weather climates, tubing should be attached with aluminum transfer plates and both well insulated for improved performance. Without the insulation, the warmth will disperse into the basement. It is also possible to have an abovedeck dry system, where heat transfer plates are supported by sleepers.
It is recommended that a licensed contractor install the heating system.

Costs
An approximate cost of an installed hydronic radiant floor heating system by a licensed mechanical contractor can range from $600 to $800 per approximately 100 square feet. This cost can be more or less depending on specific heating requirements and energy efficiency results. In addition to the heating system, a mechanical ventilation system is required in the house.

Maintenance and Repairs
It is recommended that annual maintenance be done on mechanical equipment such as the pumps, hot water heater, controls etc. If there was a problem or failure, it is commonly found in these mechanical parts. It is recommended that the installer be contacted for annual maintenance.

For repairs to the system, the homeowner should contact the installer. Be sure to have your design plan available for tubing location.

To avoid unnecessary repair work, all equipment must be used and maintained in the manner in which it was designed and installed. Homeowners disconnecting controls or moving pumps can find themselves requiring repairs and possibly voiding their warranty.

Lifespan
While the heat source in a properly maintained system can last for as long as 30 to 40 years, PEX pipes set in the floor are expected to last more than 50 years. (Some test results indicate life expectancies of 200-300 years.)

Benefits:

Comfort
Radiant floor heating provides even, comfortable, warmth as there is less air movement with this type of system. There are no drafts with this type of heating, unless it is through the building envelope. The thermal mass (concrete floor) evens out the temperature fluctuations. The floor is warm to the touch.

Energy-Efficiency
Many manufacturers claim that radiant floor heating is more economical to operate because the temperature setting may be set to 20ºC (68ºF) rather than the usual 21-22ºC (70-72ºF) as required by other types of systems. A study by CMHC (Thermostat Settings in Houses with In-Floor Heating, #01-106) has shown that people tend to keep their thermostats set the same as if they had a forced air system. Even so, the warmest air is at the floor where it is desired (and not at the ceiling) and there is reduced heat loss through the ceiling and walls.

Zoning a variety of rooms with the options for different temperatures has the potential to reduce energy consumption.

Energy Source Compatibility
Since radiant floor heating has a low operating temperature, a wide range of sources can be used to heat the water–a ground-source heat pump, a condensing or non-condensing boiler, solar or even district heating.

Quietness
The system is quiet because a properly-sized circulator pump, used to slowly move the water, is almost inaudible. The loudest sound in the system is usually the gas or oil burner.

Cleanliness
Unlike conventional forced-air furnaces, radiant floor heating has no ducts or radiators to contribute to dust collection or movement. Note: duct work is required for the mechanical ventilation system or air conditioning.
For residents with allergies, the reduction in dust movement may be beneficial.

Room Function
Hydronic radiant floor heating is virtually an invisible system. Without baseboard heaters, forced air registers etc, furniture layout is not restricted by the heating system. Bathrooms or special use areas with hard floor finishes are well suited to this type of heating.

http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/en/co/renoho/refash/refash_010.cfm

7 Cheap Bathroom Remodeling Tips

2008-08-31T21:51:00.000-07:00

A bathroom remodel to most people means clearing out the interior of the area until it is just an empty box with a couple of drainpipes sticking out of the floor. Then the space is fitted with new fixtures and faucets that may or may not work as well as the ones replaced. In other words a bathroom renovation has a lot to do with style and getting rid of old, familiar items.

As well, when remodeling a bathroom space has a lot to do with it but if you can get along with the same amount of space then there is a lot of benefits that can be had:

* Save money
* Save time
* Less mess
* Less wastage

In other words there are a lot more benefits to remodeling that just saving money – but then, that’s enough.

1. SHOWER/TUB

Cleaning: A dingy, yellowing fiberglass shower/tub can make anyone want a complete remodel. Some people scrub it with an abrasive cleanser only to find that the next time they shower the surface absorbs the color of the shampoo and leaves a tell-tale stain. The truth is that even a tub stained with hard water rust stains can be cleaned with a good dish soap and a mild, nylon cleaning pad. This is the same with toilets and sinks. Before ripping them out try a different cleaner. Search the web for ideas from other homeowners. There are lots of them out there.

Bathtub-style: If your shower is a bathtub with a shower attachment on the wall, and you don’t mind the color, a new shower enclosure really spruces up the area. These come in a variety of styles with built-in shelves for condiments. Don’t break the bank on this. You should be able to get a decent one for under $200.

Fixtures: Check the local hardware stores for up-to-date fixtures. You can really spruce up your clean tub and give it a new look and purpose with a new shower taps and showerhead. There are many different styles and uses to choose so take some time shopping.

Water Saver Showerhead: To save more money buy a water miser showerhead. This can save you over 50% of the water and hot water costs for the same duration of shower.

Shower Curtain: This is what most people notice the first time they walk into your bathroom. Shower curtains and shower curtain hangers set the mood of the whole bathroom and should be coordinated with towels and toilet cover. If your bathroom area is small you should go with a lighter color. Also, if there is a window in the bathroom you can match the shower curtain with the window curtains.

2. TOILET

If the toilet matches the bathtub or shower then you are half-way home especially if the toilet tank hardware is fine. Fortunately, compared with other fixtures, toilets are not really expensive but good, low-flush toilets are not cheap. Rather than get rid of a decent toilet to save water try a toilet tank water saver. This is a mechanism that fits in the toilet tank and only lets enough water in the tank to do the job. And it’s adjustable.

3. SINK

If the present sink is chipped or cracked, and is a drop-in style, then a replacement can be had for under $100. A full acrylic model that is yellowed or cracked can be had for about $150. If the sink is okay but looks bland then look at new fixtures at the same time you buy the new ones for the showers. In addition you can buy a towel rack and toilet paper roll hanger in the same mode.

4. VANITY

The best thing about a built-in vanity is that it’s built-in and solid. Changing the look can be as cheap as a different paint tone or changing out the doors. Or the latter, take the measurements and go to several cabinet places. They usually have an odds-and-sots section where odd-shaped bathroom cabinets sets and doors can be found. Check the measurements and you may come home with a cheap pair of beautiful doors. Get new hardware to match the racks and water fixtures.

5. FLOOR

Linoleum: In a small or medium-sized bathroom changing out a floor can be as easy as rolling out a section of beautifully-designed linoleum over the present floor and gluing it down. If the present flooring is linoleum you can get a neutralizing agent to scrub the floor and then apply the mastic. The new linoleum will go down easily. Then install molding to hold down the edges.

Tile: This also cheap and can go over other flooring. For small spaces it can be a do-it-yourself job but a handyman can do it quickly and cheaply. Big tile can also be used on the walls from the floor to the ceiling for a grand, European look.

6. LIGHTING

Usually the lighting is overhead and/or framing the mirror. This might take a couple of hundred bucks for an electrician but installing sconces on each side of the mirror will really give the bathroom a makeover. In addition, spend a few dollars on a quality, quiet fan.

7. PAINTING

Bathroom paint design is the cheapest remodeling technique going and usually one gallon of finish will do the job. Cleaning is very important and so is a good bathroom primer.

http://www.handycanadian.com/articles-cheap-bathroom-remodeling-tips.asp

Be More Energy Efficient -- Winterize Your Home

2008-08-21T14:21:00.000-07:00

Even homes with adequate insulation material and water pipe heat tape can be further fortified for winter months. Regardless if winter is already well under way, it still isn’t too late to winterize your home. The following steps can save you time, money, and help you avoid inconvenient cold-weather emergencies.

-Check insulation: be sure your attic, basement, and exterior walls are properly insulated and up to code. Depending upon insulation product used, replace or add to batt insulation (also known as blanket insulation) or other insulation material. If you have blown in insulation, a building contractor can determine whether or not more is required.
-Check for cold air entry ports: give your house the once-over; look for areas where cold air can seep in, and inside heat escape – adding to fuel costs. Check external wall electrical outlets, switch-plates, and gaps around windows and doors. Foam insulation made for outlet and switch placement is inexpensive, a breeze to install, and effective. Door weather stripping and window weather stripping made from metal, vinyl, sponge, felt, or foam can also help considerably. Caulk draft areas where weather stripping is not appropriate.
-Check furnace: this may not fit under the winterize your home category, but replacing the furnace filter every 4 to 6 weeks will help your furnace run more efficiently and cut down on heating costs. If you suspect your furnace isn’t running at top performance, have a heating repair contractor inspect it.

A programmable digital thermostat is another fuel bill cost cutter. They are not difficult to install and are more temperature precise than older types of thermostats. They can be programmed to automatically lower temperature at night when everyone is asleep, and during times when the house uninhabited.

Of course, prior to winter months make sure your gutters and downspouts are free from debris. And outside hoses should be disconnected and stored away; insulate outdoor faucets.

More Pre-Winter Ways to Cut Down on Fuel Costs

Aside from adequate home insulation, the use of either foam insulation pipe or electric heat tape, and the suggestions listed above to winterize your home, consider the following:

-Install an overhang above the entry way into your home to reduce ice build up on steps and make them safer.
-A double efficient energy pane window can help cut heating and cooling costs year round. An insulated window treatment, such as an insulated window shade or insulated window curtain, will also prove effective.
-Have chimneys, fireplaces, and woodstoves cleaned before winter sets in to avoid problems caused by accumulated soot and other debris.
-Acquire the services of a roof repair contractor to check loose gutters, damaged shingles, or other repair needs.

One other tip – avoid applying rock salt or calcium chloride to your roof to melt ice and snow. Use of either can damage shingles, and possibly void the shingle manufacturer’s warranty.

http://www.handycanadian.com/articles-winterize-your-home.asp

Home Interior Decorating on a Budget

2008-08-14T13:25:00.000-07:00

Having a large budget to work with may be great when it comes to home interior decorating. But, you don’t have to spend a lot of money on improved home design. Tasteful interior decorating on a modest family budget is possible if you follow a well-planned strategy.

Budget Decorating Tips for Enhanced Home Décor
Successful home decorating on a limited household budget takes preparation and planning. The most important thing is to decide how much money you have to work with before making decorating plans.

Follow these helpful tips when decorating on a tight home budget:

-Pace yourself; accept the fact you won’t be able to get it all done at once.
-Set a budget limit and target date for project completion; this will help avoid the tendency to keep adding to the room design, increasing overall cost.
-Concentrate on one area at a time. For instance, a single room decorating project, instead of the house as a whole.
-Have a clear cut idea of the type décor and design you want; including color scheme, decorating theme, and the type mood you want to create.
-Look at the contents of each room with a fresh eye. Sometimes by keeping and rearranging base pieces of furniture and adding a few new accessories, the desired effect can be achieved.
-When redecorating, don’t over do it. Keep in mind the main function of the room; select a style, and stick to it.
-New wall paint, wallpaper, and the addition of wall borders are all cost effective ways to improve home interior design.
-Accessory items (such as a wall mirror, pictures, decorator throw pillow, vases and lamps) are quick, economical decorating solutions to brighten a room for a more modern home design.
-Quality used furniture or unfinished furniture that you paint or stain can be a big cost-saver.
-If you plan on using crown molding, consider decorative molding made from Styrofoam. It costs considerably less, is easier to install, and is every bit as attractive as molding made from wood.

Home Interior Decorating Tricks of the TradeHome designer professionals are experts at finding cost-effective ways to improve interior design. To produce the type decorating style and atmosphere you want; for a more attractive home design; one that will fit within your budget – large or small.

An interior design consultant can help steer you in the right direction when it comes to color scheme and fabric selection. Or when deciding how to rearrange furniture; for optimal visual effect, ease of movement, and to enhance room use.

For instance, one insider decorating tip is to “float” room furniture, rather than placing it up against the walls. This helps appoint select areas of the room for a specific purpose. For instance, create an inviting environment for intimate conversation or relaxed reading by grouping two easy chairs and a love seat together at one end of the living room.

Position the furniture on a colorful rug to define the area and create a visual separation from the rest of the room. A folding room divider or large potted plants increases privacy.

An effective small space decorating tip is use a wall mirror to give the illusion of more space, create more light and add dimension to the room. Position mirrors so they reflect an attractive element; a fireplace, scenic window view, etc.

If you want to create a more formal setting without spending a lot of money, take similarly proportioned works of art and group them together on the wall. The bold presence of a wall fountain is another great way to add an air of sophistication and ambiance to a room, as well as the tranquil sound of nature for a relaxed atmosphere.

Home decorating tip: instead of spending a lot of money on designer frames, make your own picture frame; one that perfectly enhances other room elements. Simply purchase an inexpensive picture frame and cover it with wallpaper or fabric. Or decorate it with buttons, dried flowers, stained glass shards, etc. Select mats that reflect the room’s color scheme.

Low-Cost Mood Enhancers; a Compliment to Room Décor and Design
Every interior designer knows the importance of mood enhancers when it comes to room design. Elements that add to the interior decor of a home, creating just the right atmosphere.

For instance, afresh cut flower centerpiece that follows the room’s color scheme can pull other elements together. The fragrance can create an enticing, invigorating, or relaxed atmosphere; depending upon flower type. Note: a floral designer can create a dry or silk flower arrangement that goes perfectly with your room’s décor; request floral spray or aromatherapy oil as a mood enhancer.

Mood lighting is another designer technique for creating room ambiance. One technique is to create multiple pools of warm ambience lighting from lamps strategically placed around the room. Tip: a three way light bulb is more versatile than a standard bulb. Providing brighter light when required for reading and other activities; subdued light for a cozy atmosphere.

http://www.handycanadian.com/articles-interior-decorating.asp

2008-08-07T16:33:00.000-07:00

Using wallpaper wall covering is a concept that has been around since first utilized in China over 200 years B.C. And who can forget the timeless charm of parlor walls clad with cottage rose designs; landscape or the horse and carriage scenes so popular during the Victorian era?

Wallpaper as a wall covering is as vogue today as it was a100 years ago. A timeless option that has evolved into new innovative ideas. With a wide variety of styles, materials, and designs from which to select.

Today’s Wall Coverings – Countless Styles and Innovative Materials
Today, wallpaper and coverings made from other materials - such as vinyl wall covering, bamboo wall covering, fabric wall covering, wood wall covering, textured wall covering, and even leather wall covering are available. Popular options with vogue interior décor in mind.

An interior wall lavishly adorned with a stunning wallpaper mural, or even fabric wallpaper can give a room that flamboyant flair. Even infinite styles of wall covering borders are available to accent any wall covering style; whether muted and understated, or brash and bold.

Common Problems
Along with the innovations and limitless choices in wall covering material or style, comes the possibility of a wallpaper problem of some type after installation.

One of the most common problem is seams that open up or curl. This can be caused by one of several mistakes when installing:

-Not enough wallpaper paste on the edges when seaming.
-“Over rolling” the seam edges, forcing paste from behind wallpaper.
-Taking too much time aligning the seams; allowing paste to dry along the edges.
Special adhesives are available for gluing down open seams without re-papering the whole wall. An effective and quick solution.

Another problem is curling and loose ends, caused by:

-Inadequate preparation of the wall surface. Such as not sealing the surface, or not applying sizing. While in many cases wallpaper removal in not necessary, surface preparation is a must.
-Too high a room temperature during installation; causing paste to dry too quickly.
-Insufficient paste, or the wrong type paste, used during application.
If the problem exists just on the ends and seams, using the special adhesive can solve the problem without re-papering the whole wall.

Some other problems include:

Tears when being trimmed – usually caused by using a dull blade. Change utility knife blades frequently.
Streaks on the surface after application – usually caused by excess paste, which should be wiped away with a damp cloth each time a new section of wallpaper is hung. In some cases a special solution may be necessary for removing wallpaper paste.
Shading variations – some types of wallpaper or wall covering can vary from roll to roll, causing a noticeable contrast when butted together. Alternating strips for a consistent appearance or sorting and matching rolls to lessen contrast can help. Some types of wall covering can be affected by not using a non-staining adhesive or by improper rolling techniques.
Gaps between pieces – can be caused by improper surface preparation, or incorrect butting and seaming.
Wallpaper bubble or blister – caused by improper smoothing, or hanging in low temperature (below 50°F). Improper surface preparation or improper booking can be other culprits. This type problem can sometimes be solved by pricking and smoothing. Or on a larger area, slitting and applying more paste.
Sometimes during surface preparation, old deteriorating wallpaper must be removed in order to obtain a suitable surface for new wallpaper. Many homeowners, after trying to scrape off old wallpaper, are left wondering how to remove it more quickly and efficiently. Using a wallpaper steamer is the best, most efficient method; they can be found in most rental stores.

http://www.handycanadian.com/articles-wallpaper-installation.asp

How to Create More Storage Space in Small Living Areas

2008-07-31T16:37:00.000-07:00

Most articles that offer tips on ways to increase living space and create extra storage areas are written specifically for multi-room houses. But, what about storage for small space ideas; for persons living in a tiny house, apartment, or kitchenette?

The following tips are quick easy ways to increase space saving storage areas.

Invent Extra Kitchen Storage
Even kitchens have extra space waiting to be discovered. For instance, a custom made insert that fits into the top rim of the kitchen sink quickly produces an extra 2 feet or more of meal preparation space. It could be made from wood, covered with Formica that either matches or compliments the color of the counter.

If you don’t want to invest in a custom made insert, measure your sink and shop around for a wood cutting board in the appropriate size. One with a slot at one end would enable you to drain off liquids. It would also provide a handy grip for removing the cutting board when you needed to use the sink.

Hang pots, pans, and larger utensils from racks along the wall or behind the stove to free up cupboard space that could be used for storing small appliances when not in use. Or, to create more space for kitchen pantry items.

An extra shelf under the kitchen sink doubles the amount of storage space available, quickly and effectively. A narrow plastic-coated utility shelf attached to the inside of a cupboard door can hold detergents, furniture polishes, sponges, scrubbers, dust cloths, etc.

Wall shelves are another great idea for creating space saving storage in the kitchen. Small shelves along walls to hold spices and herbs; larger shelves are great for mixing bowls, cookbooks, small appliances like crock pots, and dry food items in boxes.

Maximize Personal Storage Space in the Bedroom
Custom made wood bins, old dresser drawers or plastic storage bins on wheels are perfect for stowing linens, quilts, extra pillows, and out-of-season clothing under the bed and out of the way. This helps to provide more personal storage space, and frees up closet space.

A narrow bookcase in the middle of a bedroom closet, up against the back wall, will help utilize closet space to its max. Hang clothing on either side of the bookcase. Folded sweaters, casual wear, nightclothes, lingerie, and shoes can be kept on the shelves.

See-through plastic bins arranged on the top shelf of the closet can hold gloves, scarves, hats, and other accessories. This keeps everything in the closet neat, orderly and easy to access. It also omits the need for a space-eating chest of drawers in the bedroom.

Create Cubbyholes Anywhere in the Home
One other storage for small space idea; cubby holes can be created in “blank walls;” a wall made of drywall board nailed to a framework of 2X4 studs. Finish the cubbyhole off with paneling or wood that has been sanded and painted. Or, use custom-cut mirrors; top, bottom, and sides. This will help brighten a small room and make it appear more open.

A cubby hole by the front door would be a great place to keep keys, gloves, hats, and mail ready to be sent off. One situated low on the wall near the sofa or an easy chair would be perfect for stowing TV, video, and CD player remotes, reading glasses, magazines, or a small reading lamp.

A wall cubby hole in the bathroom creates more storage space for bath and hand towels and washcloths; neatly rolled up and piled one atop the other.
One in the office on a wall beside the desk would be a great place to keep office supplies, freeing up desk surface space.

Custom doors for the cubbyholes could be made and attached with hinges, or the storage areas could be left open. Another idea would be to make a door from a framed picture on hinges: the picture would swing open to reveal a secret hiding place.

Incorporate Space Saving Features Into Your Home Renovation Plans

When planning on a home renovation or remodeling project, why not incorporate some of these space saving storage ideas, and others, into your plans? Whether you do-it-yourself or aquire the services of a professional contractor, extra cost and time requirements will be minimal.

http://www.handycanadian.com/articles_storage_space.asp

2008-07-24T15:20:00.000-07:00

Landscaping Tips
No one likes to renovate or dig up his or her back yard knowing that the ideas being put into play at this very moment will be outdated in a year or two. We have seen this time and again with appliances, furnishings and bathrooms where $20,000 worth of renovations stays around about as long as a chestnut-brown colored fridge did in the 1970's.

Many people don't think that their outside can also be outdated. Well, it can. For example, in just five years many large cities in the country have banned pesticides and chemical fertilizers. As well, water, once cheaply available in large quantities in many areas, is becoming unavailable for the nurturing of large lawns. These two large considerations are enough to make any homeowner stop and reconsider their large landscaping project. Landscape architects are increasingly using hardscape as focal points the yard: stone patios and rock pathways, water fountains, multi-level decks.

The Indoors, Outdoors

The quest for an outdoor variety of indoor living has led to the growth in patios which are a living room without the roof. Outdoor fireplaces extend the length of the patio season in our cool Canadian climate and plush, waterproof furniture mimics the indoor variety. The addition of the large southwest American-style grill has made the patio the “summer kitchen,” leaving the inside food preparation area redundant until the first flakes of snow.

The Incredible Shrinking Lawn

Once the dream of a huge golf-green lawn was the goal of almost every homeowner. With restrictive water measures and the banning of weed killers now prevalent in many cities the flawless Kentucky bluegrass lawn is becoming less noticeable. Lawns are still fine but getting smaller and homeowners are looking to natural fertilizer and pest controllers in addition to “elbow grease” to eliminate weeds. In addition, the thrum of the lawnmower is being replaced by a sound not heard in 50 years – the clicking of the push mower.

Low Maintenance Gardens

People love gardens but do not want to spend the time on maintenance. Because of their busy lives homeowners want shrubs, trees and plants that take care of themselves or are springing for landscape maintenance. So when a landscape contractor evaluates the needs of this homeowner an important consideration will be the lifestyle of the client. If you want to do the work or have some one do the work for you then, by all means, get the lush Italian garden with rows of beans on the vine, tomatoes and peppers. But if you want a small manageable backyard you can still have the Italian flavor in small doses interspersed with hardscape. Many of the plants can be rooted in large terra cotta pots and placed on a patio of decorative pavers.

Natural Plants

Before the earthmover scraped them off the landscape in order to build your home there were shrubs, plants and grasses native to the area. These plants have had eons of experience getting used to the climate and have their own built-in defenses against pests. In fact, landscape solutions are filled with natural flora and fauna such as saskatoon bushes, ladyslippers, blueberry bushes, wild onions, buffalo grass and honeysuckle. Besides not needing the care of domestic plants they add a different color and texture to the landscape. As they are acclimatized they get their water from the rain but adding composting material from a compost bin is welcome.

Lighting

Just because it gets dark many this does not mean that homeowners do not want to enjoy their gardens. In many old movies outdoor parties were lit with strings of patio lanterns, colored paper over small light bulbs. Today's gardens are lit to create a magical landscape right out of a Disney scene. With new solar powered LED's and small, colored spotlights placed in strategic places landscape designers are turning the backyard into a personal gallery. And if that's not enough the scenes and colors can be changed manually or pre-programmed for veritable light-show in the evening. Add a fountain and you have a water show.

Wildlife Sanctuary

For a few people, having birds and animals in the backyard is a nuisance. For the vast majority, however, animals and birds mean a constantly changing vista of life. But animals in the backyard (preferably small ones!) do more than just look good. Birds, toads, bats, ladybugs and others destroy insects harmful to garden plants and a nuisance to the homeowner. For example, swallows catch and eat their weight in insects every day. That's a lot of mosquitoes not feasting on us!

Landscape designers take into account the balance between what is natural and what the homeowners want. Consulting with a landscaping expert will give you a better idea of what is happening in backyard design and where the trend is heading.

http://www.handycanadian.com/articles-landscaping-tips.asp

Water and Fire Damage Restoration

2008-07-10T16:02:00.000-07:00

Without exception, regardless of what your DIY handyman capabilities are, fire and water damage restoration is best left in the capable hands of an experienced restoration contractor. The reason is because properly handling the house restoration process can be tricky business. Creating possible health hazards for both the person handling the cleanup and house occupants.

More than posing a possible health hazard, if the home restoration process isn’t handled correctly, bacteria and mold caused by water damage, and contamination caused by fire damage can prove life-threatening.

Water Restoration
In the event of water damage, home restoration efforts by a water damage specialist using the proper equipment are necessary. Not only to restore the home cosmetically and structurally; but safe Indoor Environmental Quality (IEQ) air, as well. And time is of essence.
There is a 48 to 72-hour window required to effectively inhibit the onset of mold and mildew created by water damage. If damage was caused by a sewage leak, extra steps are required to prevent toxins and bacteria from contaminating the home environment. Water damage extraction restoration is only part of the process.
Aside from room content removal, water extraction, and removing any carpet and padding, special disinfectants and chemicals are required. Water damage cleanup may also involve removing molding and at least the bottom section of walls if there is wall covering or drywall water damage. The entire affected area – including walls, ceilings, floors, crawl spaces and vents – will require drying with high-powered air movers. As well as use of dehumidification equipment to speed up the process.

Fire Damage Restoration
Because of the unique behaviors of various kinds of smoke, fire damage control and restoration can be a complex, complicated procedure. Smoke not only causes visible damage to house structure and contents, but flows through plumbing systems and in behind walls, as well.
Smoke webs caused by wet smoke created by low, smoldering heat have a strong pungent odor that permeates into cloth furnishings and walls; leaving a sticky, gooey residue that is difficult to clean.

A protein based fire produces smoke that is virtually invisible, but which discolors paints and varnishes; it, too, has a pungent, hard to remove odor. Fuel oil soot caused by furnace puff backs and other types of smoke from fire all effect the type fire restoration process necessary.

Besides requiring the services of a fire and water restoration company, water or fire and smoke damage to a structure may also necessitate the services of a contractor remodeling restoration expert. Because of the special skills required to effectively handle fire and water damage restoration emergencies, homeowners should become familiar with service providers in their area.

Prudent homeowners will keep contact information on hand for restoration contractors in case of an emergency. Not only to reduce panic should fire or water damage happen to their home. But also to ensure measures are taken to eliminate further damage to their home within the narrow time span required, avoiding further loss and expense.

Learn what should be done in the event of water damage – while waiting for the restoration expert to arrive. Things such as:

-Wipe furniture dry
-Lift drapery off wet carpet
-Place small wood or Styrofoam blocks, or aluminum foil, under furniture legs

Or in the event of fire damage, things such as:

-Cover carpeted traffic areas with towels or old sheets to prevent additional soiling.
-Discard open food packages that could have become contaminated.
-Wipe residue from porcelain bath and kitchen fixtures to prevent etching.

Also, inquire as to what to avoid. Things such as using an ordinary vacuum to remove water. Or trying to lift carpet that has been tacked down, without professional help. Or attempting to wash soot off flat painted walls without consulting with a professional cleaner, or attempting to use appliances that could malfunction because of fire damage.

http://www.handycanadian.com/articles-fire-damage-water-damage-restoration.asp

2008-07-03T17:11:00.000-07:00

What is Stucco and How is it Used?
Stucco is the common name for Portland Cement Plaster which is applied to surfaces either inside or outside buildings. Stucco is hard, durable, rot and fungus resistant, low-cost and does not need a lot of maintenance.

How is Stucco Made?

Stucco is made from Portland cement materials, sand and water mixed together to form a plaster.

How is Stucco Used?

Stucco is applied to interior and exterior walls either manually or using machines. This Portland Cement Plaster can be used on concrete wall systems or on a frame structure in buildings. This is conventionally used for siding or to cover concrete, cinder block, clay brick or adobe.

The Advantages of Stucco

Stucco, or Portland Cement Plaster, is a low-cost finish that is strong and durable and can be used in a wide variety of climates. It is also versatile and can be used over concrete, concrete masonry, brick, wood frame or steel frame. It is also fire resistant and color retentive, meaning that various pigments can be added to give your stucco exactly the effect you are looking for.

Color and Texture

One of the advantages of stucco is that although it is a low-cost surface for construction, it can also take on a wide range of colors and textures. Color is achieved using color aggregate and pigments. White Portland Cement is often used to achieve the broadest range of colors. Texture allows the appearance of the stucco to change and can even give it the appearance of other materials such as wood. This texture is achieved by choosing different aggregate sizes for different textures, controlling consistency of the finished mix, and using special techniques during and after the application.

Should You Apply Stucco Yourself?

Although the application of Stucco may appear a simple procedure, the incorrect application of it can lead to serious problems such as bulging, separating, cracking or allowing moisture through to timber frames causing rotting. It is therefore recommended that rather than attempting to apply this yourself that you call in professionals who can ensure that the stucco is correctly applied according to standards laid out by the regulating organizations. If stucco is correctly applied it will last you many years and will be well worth the expenditure, rather than having it incorrectly applied and having to pay more later.

Stucco Application Standards
The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and Canadian Standards Association are the two organizations in North America responsible for setting standards for the application of stucco. The two standards from the ASTM that regulate the application of stucco are:
ASTM C 926 Standard specification for application of Portland Cement-based plaster

ASTM C 1063 Standard specification for installation of lathing and furring to receive interior and exterior Portland Cement-based plaster. These standards are created by a number of different professions putting input into what they believe should be the standards regulating this application and then the ASTM combines these opinions into a consensus document.

Stucco, or Portland Cement Plaster, is used in many buildings as a low-cost finish that can come in a wide variety of colors and textures and is strong, durable and fire resistant. Although the process of applying stucco may seem simple it is best not to attempt this yourself as any mistakes in application could lead to serious problems. The American Society for Testing and Materials sets standards for the application of stucco, otherwise known as Portland Cement Plaster.

http://www.handycanadian.com/articles-stucco.asp

Deck Innovations

2008-06-26T16:32:00.000-07:00

One of the easiest, and the most inexpensive, ways to gain living space for you home is building a deck. Because unlike a patio a deck usually has a wood frame and can be placed at ground level, flush with your second-story bedroom or as high as the roof-line of your home. It can be a small, useful space for your enjoyment or a massive testament to style and recreation. And an already-existing deck can be enlarged, resurfaced or re-colored with a weekend's contribution of time because it's just wood.

A deck is also one of the very few builds or renovations that can be accomplished within a budget. If the ground is stable a contractor can usually come in at a definite price because the material prices and labor costs are fairly stable. In other words if the deck estimate is $3600 you can pretty well be assured that the final cost will be the same. This is because there are very few variables to move the price around.

However, before building you dream deck there are a few considerations you might want to address:

Cost
The amount of money you can afford directly affects the size and scope of your deck. If there is a lot of preparation work to be done – old deck torn out, ground leveled – then this will affect the price. But if it is just a regular square deck built within 4' of the ground, the rule-of-thumb is: Take the cost of materials and double it. So if you go down to the store and price out the materials for deck and they come to $1200 then, with labor and other considerations, the deck will most likely come out to around $2400. This is also a good number to keep in your head when contractors give you estimates.

Shape, Size and Levels
This is actually a very important consideration because the shape affects both the usage and the cost. For example, a rectangular deck in front of the home with diamond-shape end pieces will require extra cutting and shaping to get the right effect. A good carpenter will take more time to make sure that the shape and angles are right and this will cost more.

Now, add to this the levels. Many decks are built into spectacular structures of two or three levels with grilling and cooking stations as well as spas. Fireplaces with large chimneys are finding their way out to the decks allowing a great deck life even when the weather gets cold. To fill this space homeowners are adding posh, waterproof furniture and TV screens just like in the den.

If you live in an area that is very hot in the summer a misting system, fine water drops propelled by a fan, can take the heat away.

Railings and Posts
Decks have railings mainly for safety. But just like window trim and shrubs set off the front of the home, railings and posts define what is otherwise a flat, boring platform. Railings are the functional supports and the balusters, although providing protection, are structural decorations. In older-style homes the posts are a 4” X 4”carved, Victorian style column with matching carved balusters whereas a modern deck may have tempered-glass panels between the posts. The former is more for decoration but the glass, although modernistic, is protection from the wind.

One of the breakthroughs in railing design is the type of materials. Rather than the high-maintenance that wood railings require, these long guard-rails are now being made from powder-coated aluminum, composites and vinyl. In addition, these railings can come in 4' and 8' assembled panels that can easily be attached to posts bolted into the decking. These are more expensive but you can recoup most of the price from the labor savings over the installation of wooden posts and balusters. And then there is the saving in time and money you would have had to invest in painting.

Below Decks
One of the newest movements in deck building is to provide a usable space underneath the deck. This means instead of a dead space where water trickles down between the decking boards the area is used for storage. Of course, to make this area functional the surface of the deck would have be at least 6’ high ,or 4' if you don't mind bending over.

The decking is covered with a waterproofing to divert the water into a small gutter system and away from the home. In many cases the deckwood can be used as a platform for fiberglass sheeting which is then saturated with the epoxy to make it a hard surface. Then this surface is painted with non-stick paint or covered with an outdoor carpet. For a more realistic deck waterproofing is stretched over the joists and then vinyl or composite decking is placed down over that with a sealing solution on the bottom sides.

http://www.handycanadian.com/articles-deck-innovations.asp

Keep Your Lawn Healthy...

2008-06-13T21:49:00.000-07:00

Keep your lawn healthy using good maintenance practices. Grow a healthy lawn by using correct fertilizing, liming, aeration, mowing, topdressing, overseeding and irrigation practices.

Mowing

-Mow high when it's dry.
-Grass cut at a height of 6 to 8 cm (2 ½ to 3 inches) will develop a deep, extensive root system and grow thicker. Grass this height helps the soil to retain its moisture better.
-Sharpen your mower blade in the spring and keep it sharp.
-Grass recovers more quickly and easily from a clean cut than when it's torn.
-Leave the lawn clippings on your lawn after mowing.
-Lawn clippings compost, slowly releasing nitrogen for the grass.
-Under wet spring conditions, remove thick layers of clippings (over 0.5 cm thick) to avoid smothering your grass.

Watering

-Water deeply and infrequently.
-Apply at least 2.5 cm (1 inch) of water. Put a container on your lawn to measure how much -you've watered it.
-Water when your lawn needs it rather than on a set schedule.
-Excessive watering can lead to poor growing conditions and disease problems.
-Consider the soil type and surface features. Grass growing on compacted, fine soil or on slopes requires more frequent light watering.
-Early morning is the ideal time for watering.
-This minimizes water lost through evaporation and wind.
-Watering in the evening leaves the grass wet for longer, increasing the risk of disease.
-Grass growing near large trees may need to be watered more frequently because the tree roots absorb much of the soil's water.
-A healthy lawn can survive several weeks in a dormant state.
-In extended hot dry periods, a lawn may wilt, turn brown and become dormant. Common grass varieties like Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescues will turn green again when regular moisture conditions return.
-Check the lawn regularly to detect any pests or other problems early.
-It may be more difficult to detect or differentiate insect damage in a dormant lawn.

Fertilizing

-Compost is a great fertilizer that supplies your lawn with nutrients needed for plant growth.
-Apply at any time of the season.
-Mix it into the soil before seeding or laying sod, or spread it in a thin layer raked over the existing lawn.
-Commercial fertilizers usually contain the three major nutrients:
-nitrogen (N) to promote leaf growth
-phosphorus (P) for root growth
-potassium (K), which is essential for stress resistance
-The three numbers on the packaging represent the proportions of these nutrients, for example: 21-7-7 formulation contains 21% nitrogen, and 7% of each of phosphorus and potassium.
-Fertilizers with a slow-release form of nitrogen are preferred because they release nutrients uniformly and there is less risk that excess fertilizer will leach away from the root zone.
-All purpose turf fertilizers usually have an N-P-K ratio of 4-1-2 .
-Rates and timing of fertilization can vary with the type of soil, the type of grass, and site and weather conditions.
-A lower rate is generally used in spring and early summer than in early and late fall.
-Organic fertilizers release more nutrients as the temperature and moisture levels increase, so you shouldn't fertilize when conditions are likely to be hot or dry, usually from mid-June to early August.
-Have your soil analyzed every few years by a professional laboratory. This will tell you more specifically what type of fertilizer you will need and how much to use. It will also indicate if the pH of your soil is right for growing grass.
-Combination products containing a herbicide and a fertilizer (weed and feed type) should only be considered if your lawn has a widespread weed problem and a nutrient deficiency. Use these combination products according to the label directions.

Overseeding and Replacing Sod

-Most healthy lawns recover from damage. Depending on the type of grass, vigorously growing lawns will fill in areas that have been thinned by insects or other types of damage.
-If bare patches do not fill in quickly, weeds may set in.

Overseeding

-Regularly spreading grass seed on your lawn will ensure that it remains dense.
-Overseeding is best done in late summer to early fall.
-Topdressing with compost or topsoil can be done at the same time.
-Using the proper type of grass seed is very important for lawns in shady areas.

Replacing Sod

To replace sod:
-Cut out the dead or damaged area to about 2 cm deep.
-Rake the soil and add some fertilizer.
-Lay down the new piece of sod.
-Step on it or roll it to ensure good contact with the soil.
-Keep the new seed and sod well-watered until the new grass is established.

Aerating

-Aerating your lawn allows a better flow of water, air and vital nutrients to the plant roots, making it easier for them to grow. This does not, however, apply to soil types containing clay.
-Aeration is best done in late summer in conjunction with overseeding and/or topdressing.

Signs that you need to aerate your lawn:
-ground is hard and compacted
-thatch is building up
-water does not penetrate well
-weeds such as prostrate knotweed and clover are present.

There are two types of mechanical aerators:
-solid-tined machine that drives spikes into the ground
-core machine that removes small plugs of thatch and soil
-Sandals or shoes with 6 cm (2 ½ inch) spikes can be used for small lawns.

-Do not roll your lawn in spring as this may increase compaction problems.

Dethatching

-Thatch is a tough mixture of dead grass and roots that accumulates above the soil surface.
-In a healthy lawn, insects, earthworms, beneficial fungi and other
microorganisms break down thatch and aerate the soil.Excessive watering, over fertilizing with nitrogen and heavy use of insecticides and fungicides may decrease the populations of soil organisms required to keep thatch levels down.
-Thatch that is more than 1 cm (½ inch) thick can prevent water, air and nutrients from getting to the roots. Too much thatch can also harbour harmful insects and diseases.
-Remove excess thatch with a heavy rake or de-thatching equipment.

http://www.healthylawns.net/english/homelawns/lawn_maint-e.html

2008-05-22T15:50:00.000-07:00

Everyday Green Living
By Marissa Ponikowski

There are many ways to adopt a more eco-friendly lifestyle, and the best place to start is your very own home. Read on for easy eco tips to share with the whole family.

Water
Conserving water is important – but so is protecting it from contamination. Purifying contaminated water can be difficult and very often results in wasted water. To keep the water supply clean:

Cut down on the amount of household chemicals you use and dispose of the ones you do use at local drop-off centres.
Use biodegradable products whenever possible. Especially avoid using chemical pesticides and fertilizers outdoors.
Store garbage properly and clean up paint or other chemical spills right away.
Keep your vehicles in good working order, so leaking oil or gas doesn’t make its way into the water supply.
To save water:

Shorten your shower time to about six minutes, and, if you choose to have a bath, only fill the tub halfway.
Never leave the tap running while brushing your teeth, shaving or lathering up during hand washing.
Never throw garbage, such as tissues, paper towels or cigarette butts, in the toilet and flush. This wastes several gallons of water.

Energy
Saving energy also means saving money, which is just another good reason to be kind to the environment. To save energy in your home:

If planning on purchasing new appliances look for Energy Star models. These are high quality, widely available and some municipalities even offer a rebate incentive if you buy them.
Only run your dishwasher when it’s full, and use the air dry setting rather than drying them with heat.
Most of the energy used to wash clothes is wasted on heating the water. When possible, use cold water. Try a cold water detergent for best results.
Install a programmable thermostat and lower your thermostat a few degrees at night or when you’re not home during the day.
Apply sealant or caulking around doorframes and windows to prevent warm air from leaking out in the winter and hot air from getting in during the summer.

Air Quality
The quality of your air is directly related to the products you use. Synthetically scented products are rarely environmentally friendly and could even contribute to asthma and other respiratory disorders. To improve the air quality in your home:

Use detergent and water instead of harsh disinfectants which tend to give off noxious fumes.
Select unscented cleaning products, or go natural and clean with baking soda, vinegar and castile soap. These products often work better than commercial cleaning products!
Avoid the use of aerosol sprays of any kind.
Don’t use air fresheners. These products often contain harmful chemicals such as formaldehyde and phthalates. Recent studies have also found that air fresheners release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the air - especially plug-in air fresheners containing pinene and d-limonene.
Eliminate the need for deodorizers in your home by taking the garbage out daily. Rinse packaging and wrappers before throwing them in the garbage and freeze perishable wastes such as meat and fish scraps until garbage collection day.
As an air freshener alternative, try burning a few drops of natural essential oil in a clay infuser.

Waste
In the age of recycling and ‘green’ bins, it just doesn’t make sense to produce a lot of waste. Here’s how to cut your garbage output down:

Find out which plastics are accepted in your city’s recycling bins and don’t purchase plastic products that aren’t (for example, in Toronto, only recycling types 1 and 2 are accepted in the blue box).
Head to the grocery store with a handful of reusable cloth grocery bags.
Buy in bulk when possible. Store bulk food in reusable containers.
Buy high quality, durable items. Don’t make unnecessary purchases.
If your municipality has a composting program, participate by using your green bin or bag daily. You can also compost and use your own organic matter – and your garden will look gorgeous!

http://www.hgtv.ca/green/indoors_everydaygreenliving.aspx

2008-05-01T15:52:00.000-07:00

Spring Forward:Preparing home & yard for the warm days ahead

Gardening
Spring and cleaning go hand in hand, though it isn't just your home that needs attention - now is also the time to prepare your garden for the growing season ahead. But before you start tidying up, make sure that the ground is completely dry and the frost will not come back.
Because your perennials return every year, they'll require some work on your part to keep them looking gorgeous every time. You'll have to cut them back to the ground so that the new growth emerging from the crown of the roots can flourish. While you're at it, clear away any unsightly branches and debris that you may find littering your garden.
If you covered your garden bed with a mulch of leaves to protect it from the frost, you can rake it off, but take care in doing so in case there are any early sprouting perennials hiding underneath. The leaves can be added to a compost heap, and come next spring, the compost will be a rich source of nutrients that you can apply to the soil. Alfalfa, peat moss and perlite are other options for supplements that will help to keep your garden healthy.
While you're poking through the garden, keep your eyes open for any perennials that have been lifted out of the ground by frost. Gently press them back into place, or if their roots are exposed, you can cover them up with a bit of soil.
It's too early to start planting, but at least your garden will be primed for when the weather is right. Gather ideas and decide exactly what you would like to do - maybe some brightly coloured annuals are all it will take to liven things up. Or, consider planting a few clusters of tall ornamental grasses in your garden so that when winter rolls around again, you'll have more to look at than just a whitewash of snow.
Many gardeners keep journals to track how their gardens grow over the years, and if you aren't one of them, now is a good time to start. Describe the state your garden is in at this point and how it changes as the months go by. When you look back, you'll notice a pattern of what you liked and what didn't work so well - after all, practice makes perfect.

Landscaping
Lazy afternoons in the shade are one of life's great pleasures. Imagine stretching out in a hammock, swinging back and forth and taking in the breathtaking sights of a yard that's been designed to perfection. But, a landscaped yard can offer more than just visual appeal.
Winding vines and tall trees, if strategically placed, can help to reduce your energy bills and keep your house cooler when a warm spell hits. They'll block out some of the sun's intense heat and also benefit you later in the year by acting as a windbreak. You don't have to plant a whole forest - it should only take a couple of trees or even some shrubs for you to notice a difference.
Fortunately, an attractive yard is just another benefit. Select an experienced landscape contractor that covers all the bases - meaning one that will take your concerns into account, such as energy conservation, rather than someone who only has a narrow field of expertise.
Think of your yard as an extension of your house - like an outdoor room without the walls. A landscape designer can help you personalize your yard, turning it into a work of art that reflects your tastes. If you want an area that will cast a lighter mood after a long day, bright and colourful details can do the trick. Bunches of flowers in bold shades work wonders for some, whereas one contractor says his clients are repeatedly asking for ponds and fountains so they can wind down to the soothing sound of water.
To take the room analogy a step further, why not create your own sanctuary and designate an outdoor space, or room, if you will? A landscape contractor can add levels to the area and plant trees or shrubs around the border, with colourful flowers and a bench as a finishing touch. You may not be able to shut the door, but you'll certainly have an oasis that's all your own.

Air Conditioning

A summer without air conditioning just might be every Manitoban's worst nightmare. You're likely asking yourself why on earth we're talking about summer when there's still snow on the ground, but with those unbearably hot, muggy days approaching, you'd better have a quality air conditioner. If not, it should be something to look into before the weather starts heating up.
Nearly any piece of dirt that's floating around your house can be sucked into your air conditioner - dirt, debris, lint, you name it. You should check your unit's filter regularly and change it when necessary. If the build up gets to be too much, the air flow through the unit can be severely restricted.
The amount of Freon in your unit should also be examined. If there isn't enough running through the system, your air conditioner won't work to its full capabilities. With the summer's intense heat, you'll surely notice a difference if the levels are too low. An air conditioning technician will be able to test the unit to ensure that it's functioning properly.
One expert says a common mistake people make is selecting the wrong air conditioner for their homes. For example, if someone were to purchase a two ton unit for a 1000 square foot property that should be using a ton and a half unit, it wouldn't be able to adequately remove humidity. Alternately, if they were to purchase a unit that was too small for their home, it wouldn't be able to maintain a comfortable temperature on those sweltering hot days. Besides the air conditioner's size, you should also note its Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (S.E.E.R.) before you buy it. The S.E.E.R. is an industry standard system used to tell how efficient a unit is - the higher the number, the more efficient it is. Professionals usually suggest a rating of 10 or more. You'll want to make certain that if you have any problems with your air conditioner, it will be backed by a longstanding warranty. Some units offer 10 year warranties, and they may or may not include the compressor. Don't think you're saving a few bucks by choosing an unknown brand, either - if your unit is made by a company with a common name, parts will be readily available should something go wrong with it.

http://www.homebase.ca/articles/mb_springforward.asp

How Not to Get Soaked on a Reno (Bathroom)

2008-04-12T14:49:00.000-07:00

RENOVATION
How not to get soaked on a reno
Good-bye to custom anything; hello in-stock
SARAH RICHARDSON
From Friday's Globe and Mail

April 11, 2008 at 12:00 AM EDT
I recently wrote a column about the "ready-to-wear" approach to kitchen renovations as an alternative to the more common custom approach. Clearly, it struck a chord with readers, as I received an overwhelmingly positive response to my suggestions for remodelling on a quick timeline and tight budget. (Who doesn't love pointers on where to get a deal?)
Naturally, I assume that you'll be equally interested in a few pointers on how to achieve similar winning results in a bathroom. So here goes …
Much of my work focuses on the high-end, bespoke-is-better approach to design, but there's a part of me that loves the challenge of a tight budget and impossible timeline. I turn these design challenges into a kind of scavenger hunt (with very few clues for guidance). My prize is successful completion and client satisfaction.

I thrive on the concept that any room design can be imagined, executed and enjoyed in less time than it takes for a mailed package to be delivered overseas.

My creative ideas come fast and furious, so I'm eager to get them out of my head and make them a reality so I can move on to the next project and a new concept.

I don't need to spend months thinking about what I might want to do, and I get bored with too much talk and not enough action. In every season of my show, design inc. on HGTV, I try to throw in one of these fast-paced challenges to keep my team on their toes and inspire my viewers to try it at home.

This time around, Natalie was the design team member assigned to manage our time-trial experiment. But there was a twist: We chose a cute little house that was not located downtown or accessible by road, but on the Toronto Islands, reached only by ferry, water taxi or delivery boat.

Normally, one travels to the islands on a sunny summer's day laden with sunscreen and a picnic basket, but not Natalie.

Her island adventure involved toting tile samples, plumbing parts, gallons of paint and decorative accessories, all at the mercy of the ferry schedule. (Miss the boat and there goes your schedule for the day!)

Given these challenges, I wanted to get in and out as quickly as possible. With trades people losing valuable hours every day waiting for ferries, we wanted to expedite the process as much as possible.

When we started, we said goodbye to custom anything and hello to in-stock and ready-to-go! Our job took two weeks from start to finish, the impact on our clients was minimal, and I think the results are dynamite. Here's my recipe for success.

DON'T MESS WITH THE PIPES
If time and money are an issue, your best bet is to leave the plumbing in its existing location. Moving toilets and pipes can be costly because it takes extra time for your plumber to do the job. I left the sink, toilet and shower where they were and merely added plumbing for a new stand-alone tub.

BE OPEN TO SUGGESTIONS
Don't embark on your project with a preconceived notion of what the end result will be.
Why not hit the shops with an open mind?
See what's in store and in stock that tickles your fancy. Starting by saying "What can I choose from?" instead of "I want this" will enable you to take a cash-and-carry approach to everything from tiles and tubs to plumbing and light fixtures.

SHOP BY PHONE
One quick call to my man Peter at Taps Bath Centre revealed that (hallelujah!) there existed a Canadian company that specializes in ready-made bathroom vanities to suit every whim — from modern to traditional.
Add to this great news that all the products are Canadian-made (I love a homegrown solution), and come complete with a built-in sink and counter, and we were out of the gate running. I browsed the website, selected my vanity of choice, and it was delivered to our island doorstep five days later!
One might think you'd need to sacrifice style for speed, but not in this case. I wanted to achieve a look of relaxed cottage charm and was thrilled to find a solid-wood vanity with open display, ample storage, and a lovely pure-white, natural-stone top. It fit the bill perfectly.
Generally speaking, custom countertops take about two weeks from measuring to installation, plenty of opportunity to deal with any errors. And a custom countertop alone costs about the same as I paid for the entire kit and caboodle (vanity, sink and counter and faucet).

ACCESSORIZE WITH FLAIR
Never satisfied with a totally off-the-rack solution, I couldn't resist customizing my wonder vanity with a few special touches — to make it my own. The knobs needed a more polished pick-me-up, and the faucet wasn't really singing the right country tune, so I opted for an upgrade. Shiny chrome knobs and a big-box-store faucet quickly added the proper panache to my look with very little effort.

MAKE A TILE TRADE OFF
Everything doesn't have to come from the same place. In order to get the best results, I often combine tile and stone from multiple sources to achieve my save/splurge goal.
For instance, Home Depot carries two of my constant go-to items for budget baths. One is three- by six-inch, glossy white ceramic tile with a matching bull-nose profile (necessary for adding "wow factor" mosaic accent bands) at a cost of less than $3 a square foot.
The store also offers ready-to-go jambs and thresholds in two types of marble for a fraction of the cost of custom jambs from a stone supplier. (You need these if you are planning to install a standalone shower stall with a glass enclosure.) Then, once you've got the bulk of your tile needs taken care of, you can toss a little glamour into the mix with more expensive glass mosaics and natural stone, which can be bought at a number of places.

SEEK LOCAL INSPIRATION
Never one to go hog wild for themes and motifs, I still like my rooms to have a mood. Since our clients' home is surrounded by beaches and feels more like a cottage retreat than a city pad, I wanted to inject water-related references. A wall of glass mosaic in varied tones that evokes the look of treasured beach glass finds added just the right touch of colour, and a pebble mosaic shower floor created the relaxed mood and rustic texture of an outdoor shower.

OLD-FASHIONED AND MODERN
I've always had a weakness for a deep, claw-foot tub. Despite all the modern offerings available, I never grow tired of the look, comfort or space-efficient design of these old-fashioned gems.
You may have seen me prowling around the yard of my favourite vintage appliance supplier, Royal Appliances in Toronto, in search of the ultimate deal on an old cast-iron, claw-foot tub (available for the unbeatable price of about $150). But arranging for a special truck to haul the tub over to the island on the delivery ferry, a team of guys to manoeuvre it up the stairs, and a painter to rejuvenate it once its in place suddenly made it look like less of a deal.
Instead, we bought a brand new tub with old-world elegance, shiny chrome feet and easy-to-lift acrylic construction. It arrived on the doorstep without any effort thanks to the free delivery policy of our supplier.

SHINE FOR LESS
I've said it before, but this tip bears repeating. When working within a budget, you should always stick with classic, shiny chrome finishes. It's hands-down the most durable finish for all your plumbing and is the most economically priced finish.
Keep in mind that if you choose to upgrade your vanity faucet to brushed or polished nickel, you will also need to pay for an upgrade on your shower fittings, tub filler, wall sconces, knobs, towel holders, hooks and any other complementary metal fittings.
Save those valuable dollars and put them to better use elsewhere! Make time for one custom touch. Plan it right and you can still accomplish your goal in record time and have a single custom element — a glass shower enclosure.
By purchasing ready-to-go shower jambs, your tiler can build the shower stall at the beginning of the project and install the jambs, allowing you to get the glass company in for a custom site measurement.
During the week it takes to temper and prepare the glass, your tiler can tackle all the tile work, the painter can finish the walls and trim, and you can add all the finishing touches. There's no mess or dust involved in installing the glass, so that can easily be the final step in the room.

STRETCH YOUR BUDGET
The finishing touches and decorative accessories can make or break the look of your completed room, but they can also make or break your bank account.
If you don't watch your spending, you can easily rack up a whopping bill in no time flat (at least I can if you point me in the direction of my favourite luxe home stores).
But when bound by a budget, I'm happy to grab a cart and take a spin through the aisles of more price-competitive suppliers.
I love the high life, but, like many of you, I still get excited when I can fill my cart to overflowing and get the look for less.
One stop at the big box, a quick visit to my Swedish friends, and a bargain hunt for winning discounts ensured that every inch was accessorized to perfection, with dollars to spare.

Sarah Richardson is host and co-producer of Design Inc. on HGTV and principal of Sarah Richardson Design.

Painting tips from the pros

2008-03-30T13:00:00.000-07:00

Inman News

If you're an avid do-it-yourselfer, you know the value of a simple can of paint for sprucing up walls and revamping tired rooms. But you've probably also experienced the love/hate relationship that seems to be a part of painting, so here are a handful of tips that should make your next paint project a little easier and more enjoyable.

1. Get organized: Painting is more than just opening a can and grabbing a brush. If you take the time to gather up all your paint gear, paint, rags, ladders, tools, aspirin and everything else you anticipate needing before you start, the job will flow much smoother.

2. Mark the cans: Use clear tape to cover over the name of the paint color, as well as any custom-formula markings put on the can by the paint store. This will help keep them from being obscured by paint drips. To simplify paint touchups, put a blank white label on the can's lid. On the label, write the name of room(s) where the paint was used, put a small dab of the actual paint on the label to simplify color identification, and then cover the label with clear tape to protect it.

3. Tint your primer: If you are priming your walls or woodwork prior to painting, have the primer tinted to a color that's close to the finish color, rather than leaving it white. Primer, which is less expensive than paint, provides good adhesion, and having it tinted may save you from applying a second coat of paint.

4. Intermix your paints: If you are using multiple gallons of paint, open at least two and intermix them in a clean 5-gallon bucket to ensure an even color blend.
5. Skip the roller tray: Many professional painters don't use paint trays for their rollers, which are easy to knock over or step into. Instead, use a roller screen that hooks inside your 5-gallon bucket.

6. Cover your brushes: When you need to get away from the painting for a while, wrap your brush and your roller cover in plastic wrap or aluminum foil. This will keep them from drying out while saving you the hassle of cleaning them before the day is done.

7. Be prepared: No paint job is without drips and other minor problems. Keep several clean rags close at hand -- one in your back pocket, one hanging on the ladder, etc. Rags are your best friend for getting little messes taken care of right away. Also, keep a bucket close by with a little clean water in it (for latex paints) or paint thinner (for oil-base paints) to aid with cleanups.

8. Proper cut-in: Do your cut-in work with a brush before grabbing the roller. For best results, you want to overlap your painting while it's still wet, so work in one area at a time, and then roll on the paint before the cut-in has dried. This "wet-lapping" helps blend the paint better.
9. Top to bottom: Start with the ceiling first. Paint the walls next, working from top to bottom. This allows you to better handle and drips.

10. "Push" the paint when brushing: When painting against a corner or an edge, such as a piece of trim, don't put the brush all the way against the edge -- paint on the bristles can leave small marks on the adjoining surface. Instead, touch the wet brush to the wall slightly away from the edge you're painting up to, then use the brush to push the paint -- not the bristles -- up to the edge.

11. Watch the grain: When painting wood trim or doors, always paint in the direction of the grain.
12. Brush cleanup for latex paint: Run warm water in a sink or bucket. Add a small amount of dish soap and a small amount of fabric softener. Soak your brushes for five to 10 minutes, then finish rinsing and cleaning under running water. Twirl the brush handle back and forth between your hands to spin out excess water. Allow to air dry, and then store the brush in its original cover to help maintain its shape.

13. Rinse and dry roller covers: Use a roller scraper, which looks like a putty knife with one concave-curved side, to scrape excess paint off the roller cover and back into the can. Soak the cover in the above solution, and then insert the cover into a roller spinner, which is an inexpensive hand-operated device that spins the cover quite rapidly. Spin the cover under running water to remove the rest of the paint and to rinse the cover, then shut the water and continue the spinning to remove most of the moisture. Air dry, and then store the cover in its original plastic cover.

Published by Paul Bianchina/Inman News

Remodel rids closet of musty smell

2008-03-19T10:20:00.000-07:00

Q: Our 1920s bungalow has a small front closet that is punched out from the wall of the house so that the box of the closet extends past the exterior walls. This leaves the three walls and floor in direct contact with the outside damp air. We use this as a coat closet, but because of the outside dampness and lack of insulation in the lath-and-plaster walls, clothes get musty.

The closet is very small, so simply adding a layer of insulation on top of the walls would make the closet prohibitively small. I was thinking of removing the lath and plaster, adding insulation between the studs, then putting up drywall with a vapor barrier. If I get particularly inspired, I may add cedar paneling. What would you suggest?

A: Your instincts are right on. Insulating the walls will go a long way toward warming up your closet and eliminating the musty smell. But since you've started, and you're going to make a mess anyway, why not go for the whole enchilada and insulate the floors and the ceilings, too? It's not that much more work and the job will be done right.

The first step is to strip all the lath and plaster off the interior walls and ceiling. A claw hammer and a flat bar are the only tools you'll need for this part of the job.

We suggest you leave the baseboards and door casing in place. Ripping off the case and base adds unnecessary work. Leaving it maintains the original character of this part of the house.
To demo lath-and-plaster walls and ceilings, it's easiest to crack the plaster with the hammer and scrape it off the lath with a flat bar. Wear a mask and go easy when near interior walls. You don't want to put cracks in your entryway, meaning more patching and painting.

Once all of the plaster is off the walls and ceiling, shovel it into a garbage can and send it off to the landfill. Next, use the flat bar to carefully remove the lath, exposing the stud bays. If a piece of lath is buried halfway behind the baseboard, leave it alone. Score the lath that extends behind the door casing with a utility knife and break it off. This is the perfect time to add or update any electrical wiring that may be in the closet.

With the ceiling joists and the stud bays open, install the insulation. Use a paper- or foil-faced insulation and place the vapor barrier toward the inside of the closet. Conventional practice is to apply vapor barriers toward the warmer air of conditioned spaces. We assume the wall studs are about 3 1/2 inches thick, so R-11 batts are what's needed. For the ceiling joists you probably can go a little heavier, depending on the space available. R-19 batt insulation with a thickness of 6 inches should do the job. At any rate, the batts should fill the stud and joist bays and should not be compressed.

We've found that interior plaster is generally 3/8 inch thick and applied over 3/8-inch wooden lath for a total thickness of 3/4 inches. Although using 1/2-inch drywall for the ceiling is perfectly acceptable, it won't work on the walls. To reproduce the 3/4-inch wall thickness, nail pieces of lath vertically to the studs and apply 3/8-inch drywall to finish the walls.
Tape, texture and paint the walls, and you're done, unless you decide to face the closet with cedar. In that case, tape and one coat of mud will do as a base for the cedar paneling.
Because the bottom of the closet is cantilevered out the side of the house, we suggest you also consider insulating between the floor joists.

From underneath the house, install batt insulation with the vapor barrier toward the conditioned air of the closet. Nail or screw a piece of plywood to the floor joists to cover the insulation. Before you install the plywood, drill two 1-inch holes in the plywood at each joist bay to allow for ventilation and cover the holes on the inside of the plywood with screen mesh. That will keep critters from taking up residence in the insulation.

By: Bill & Kevin Burnett, InNewsman

Periodic flush does water heater good.

2008-03-07T08:32:00.000-08:00

You may have gotten some advice at one time or another about draining your water heater periodically. Your neighbor might have mentioned it, or you may have even seen it recommended by the manufacturer of the water heater. But why do you need to do this, and how is it done?

As to the why, the answer is sediment. Sediment is small bits of dirt, rock and other debris that can work its way into your water heater over time. Being heavier than water, it will settle to the bottom of the tank and build up. It's not an earth-shattering problem, but in areas having water with a high mineral content, or water coming from a well or other supply that may not be well filtered, it certainly is possible to accumulate a fair amount of material in the bottom of the tank.

That sediment buildup can potentially decrease the amount of hot water the tank can hold, or it can clog up the drain valve. If your city periodically flushes the municipal water lines, or anything else causes a water surge or a sudden increase in water pressure, that layer of sediment can get itself all stirred up and work its way into faucets, valves and other areas where it's better off not being.

Hence the advice to periodically drain and flush your water heater to remove that buildup of sediment before it can do any harm. This is a very simple procedure, and how often you need to do it depends on your local water conditions -- annually or even semiannually in areas with poor water quality or if you're on a well, and every couple of years in areas with very clean water or homes with a filtration system.

FLUSHING YOUR WATER HEATER

First of all, shut the power. If you have an electric water heater, simply shut the circuit breaker. Don't overlook this step, because if the elements come on while they're not covered with water, it can do some serious damage. For a gas water heater, shut the valve controlling the gas supply to the heater.

Next, shut the cold water supply to the water heater. This is a valve that is located above or next to the heater. Go inside the house, open the hot water faucet that is closest to where the water heater is, and wait a moment until no more hot water comes out.

Near the bottom of the water heater is a drain valve. It may be white plastic, or it may be a brass valve that looks like an outdoor hose bib. Attach a garden hose to the valve, and route the other end to a safe location. Remember that this is very hot water that will be coming out of the hose, so keep it away from kids, pets and sensitive plants.

If your water heater is located in a basement and you have nowhere to route the hose -- to a sump or floor drain, for example -- then the draining process will need to be done with a bucket, and will obviously be a whole lot more tedious. To avoid burns, use a sturdy, good-quality bucket, and don't fill it more than half full.

Open the drain valve all the way, and let the water heater drain. This will typically be a relatively slow process. You may find it necessary to open the pressure relief valve on the tank to encourage things to get started, something akin to punching a second hole in the top of a can to get it to drain.

To get an idea of how much sediment is in the tank, you can run some of the hot water into a large glass jar (carefully). This is a good indicator of what was in the tank, and if you know how long it's been since the last time it was drained, it can give you a rough idea of how often you should be doing this.

When the tank is empty, shut the faucet in the house and turn on the cold-water supply valve. This will allow fresh cold water to run through the tank, stirring up and flushing out any remaining sediment. Unless you have a tremendous buildup of material in the tank, it shouldn't take more than about five or 10 minutes to completely flush it out.

When the water is clear, shut the drain valve and remove the hose. Leave the main cold-water supply valve open and refill the tank. When the tank is full -- and only when it's full -- you can turn on the electricity to reactivate the elements, or turn on the gas valve and relight the pilot. If you are unsure about how to safely relight the pilot, call your gas company for assistance.

Published by Paul Bianchina/Inman News

Spring Has Sprung a Leaky Roof

2008-02-29T09:02:00.000-08:00

That gentle spring rain is great for your garden, but it's not so nice when you're dealing with a leaky roof. If you've noticed peeling wallpaper, cracked paint, stains on the ceiling or actual drips that you have to catch in buckets or pots, you need to think about fixing your roof.

A few things you should know about roof repairs

The best-case scenario is that a section of your roof will require patching or repair. The worst-case scenario is an expensive recovering or replacement of your entire roof. When determining which scenario applies to your roof, interview some quality roofing professionals and consider these facts:

- A roof needs to be replaced every 20 to 30 years, on average, depending on materials, installation, weather and maintenance

- Finding the source of a leak can be challenging, even for roofing pros, and repairs can get pricey if you have to keep calling them back for additional fixes

When a new roof is your only option
Your chosen roofing professional has advised you need a new roof. Now, you have a number of new questions to answer:

1. Replace or recover? Outright replacement means tearing off the roof and installing a new one. Recovering involves installing new shingles over an existing roof. Depending on building code in your area, you may not be allowed more than one roof recovering before a complete replacement is necessary

2. What materials do you want to use? While most people choose cost-effective asphalt shingles, which come in a variety of grades and colours. You can also choose shingles made of wood, ceramic, slate, metal, or synthetics made to look like slate or wood

3. How's your attic ventilation? Proper ventilation can save energy, prevent structural damage caused by moisture, prolong the life of your roof, and make your home more comfortable. Have your roofing professional check it out before any works begins

Once your new roof is installed, maintain it diligently. Inspect it every spring and fall, as poor maintenance is the leading cause of damage and leaks. Replace damaged shingles and take note of sagging or other damage. Careful maintenance of a new roof will keep you and your family leak-free and happy - at least for the next 20 to 30 years.

Published by RoyallePage.ca

Get Started On The House Hunt

2008-02-25T11:17:00.000-08:00

Mortgage interest rates dropped recently and home prices have moderated in many areas, making it a good time to buy. If you've never bought a home before or if you currently own a home but have never bought and sold at the same time, the process can seem intimidating.
You can ease your anxiety by formulating a game plan and by assembling the best team of professionals you can find, including a mortgage person; a real estate agent or two if you're buying and selling in different locations; inspectors; an insurance agent; a closing agent or escrow officer; and an attorney, depending on where you're buying.

The two key players on your team are the mortgage person and the real estate agent. Once you have these selected, they can help you line up the additional help you need. The best recommendations for real estate professionals are from acquaintances who recently had a good experience buying in your area. Be sure to ask if they would use their agent or mortgage person again.

The first step is to find out how much you can afford. Most buyers need a mortgage in order to complete a home purchase. A lender will qualify you for a certain loan amount depending on how much cash you have available for a down payment and closing costs -- the various fees associated with buying or selling a home.

Other relevant factors are your credit score, your verifiable income and what type mortgage you decide to use for your purchase. There are a lot of different mortgage options: 30-year fixed-rate mortgages, 15-year fixed, interest-only, as well as various types of adjustable-rate mortgages.

HOUSE HUNTING TIP: You can work with a mortgage broker who will shop the mortgage market for you and place your loan package with the lender that offers the best deal. Or, you can work directly with a lender, such as Bank of America or Citibank. Just make sure that you understand what kind of loan is being offered. You might want to consult with an independent party like your accountant or financial advisor to determine which kind of financing is best for you.

Once you know how much you can afford, ask your mortgage broker or lender to have you preapproved for the financing you need. This requires that you complete a loan application and have your credit checked. This will put you in a good bargaining position with the seller.

While you're checking on financing, you should also find a real estate agent. If you've never bought a home before, you should use an agent who is a good communicator and who will take the time to explain the process. Also, keep in mind that your agent will be interfacing with the other parties in the transaction. You want someone you trust and who you are sure will represent you professionally and work diligent on your behalf.

Repeat home buyers who will be selling and buying using the same agent will also want to make sure that the agent has good marketing skills. It's a benefit if the agent is organized and has good resources.

A good seller's agent can help you get ready to sell your home by creating a task list of the things that need to be done before your home goes on the market. Your listing agent should be able to give you the names of reputable people who can assist you with cleaning, painting, hauling, storing, inspections, staging, landscaping and whatever else you need to prepare your home for a profitable sale.

THE CLOSING: With this ground work completed, you are ready to seriously hunt for a home.
Dian Hymer is author of "House Hunting, The Take-Along Workbook for Home Buyers" and "Starting Out, The Complete Home Buyer's Guide," Chronicle Books.

Copyright 2007 Dian Hymer
Distributed by Inman News

Economic prospects continue to encourage housing starts in Prince George

2008-02-11T16:48:00.000-08:00

The city's record for job growth will draw more people to Prince George and encourage more new home construction, says Serena Teakles, market analyst for the Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC).

Job creation in the city was up 6.7 per cent in the fourth quarter of 2007, she noted.
UNBC, an inland port in Prince George and the airport expansion have created a lot of positive publicity for the city.

"That's attracting a lot of people,"Teakles said Friday. "Increased numbers of people going to work means more will be able to buy a home.

"New home construction will be fuelled by that increased demand."
A strong local labour market, job growth in the city and continuing reasonable mortgage rates are driving housing demand, Teakles said.

Last month's total of 17 starts -- all for single, detached houses -- was a 31 per cent increase over the 13 seen in January 2007, she said. Yet one month is not enough to establish a trend. Last December there were only three starts, down dramatically from the 17 recorded in December 2006. With such fluctuations, month-to-month comparisons are not always statistically useful, Teakles said.

However, the CMHC predicts 340 starts on new homes for the whole of this year, up 3.7 per cent from the 328 recorded last year, she said.

As to the resale or used housing market, the CMHC expects the number of sales transactions to slow slightly.

"We've been at historic highs recently, so it will be more of a moderating trend," Teakles said. "But we still expect prices to be rising."

Published by The Prince George Citizen

Selling This Spring?

2008-01-31T14:17:00.000-08:00

Are you considering selling your home this spring? As we head into the year's busiest real estate season, ensuring that your home is in its best condition will help attract maximum interest. Here are some tried and true steps to follow:

Begin the purge.
Put your house on a diet. Give consideration to the appeal of a tidy and organized house and begin removing or donating both the things that clutter your home and the things you don't want to move with you. Choose a drawer, shelf or storage bin, and begin streamlining, room-by-room, a little bit at a time. Seasonal changes can create great opportunities for sorting unworn clothes. You'll be happy to have less on moving day and your closets will look bigger to potential buyers. A garage sale is a great way to purge before your home's first showing.

Fix what's broken or damaged.
Determine what house maintenance is in order. To pass a home inspection, certain repairs may be unavoidable. Taking care of these issues now will ease your burden later and improve your sales opportunities. Simple repairs are also well worth the effort. Painting those chipped shutters and replacing the broken banister rail will provide a return in creating the right impression for a timely sale.

Think like a buyer.
This can be the hardest step since we love our homes and generally assume others will too. Accept that potential buyers have different tastes and consider hiring a house staging professional or 'fluffer' who can objectively determine what needs to change. Consider basic staging techniques such as removing clutter; putting away personal items like photos and trophies; cleaning and sanitizing inside and out, from top to bottom; freshening and neutralizing your colour scheme; making your entrance way appealing; eliminating pet and food odours; enhancing the illusion of space, beautifying your backyard. See the 2006 Royal LePage House Staging Report for more information.

Contact your Realtor.
I am your partner in selling what is likely your largest asset. I can assist you in getting your home prepared for sale and in helping you understand the current buying and selling real estate markets. As an experienced, attentive and committed Realtor, I know the market and can put the strength of an established, leading real estate brand to work for you. It's my goal to help you sell your home in the shortest amount of time possible and at the best possible price.

Alternatively, if you have a friend, relative or colleague, who is considering buying or selling, please tell them about me. Your referrals are genuinely appreciated. I will treat your friends and family with the care they deserve so you can be proud you referred me.

Thanks Dora Baycroft

www.doraworks.com

dora@doraworks

Blackened carpet could mean furnace defect

2008-01-08T09:09:00.000-08:00

Inspection advised to ensure indoor health, safety

Tuesday, January 08, 2008By Barry Stone Inman News

Dear Barry,

Our home is about nine years old and has off-white carpet in most rooms. The edges of the carpets have gradually turned black, and we're wondering if we should clean the forced-air heating ducts. I think we should, but my husband says this would be wasted money. What do you suggest? --

Blackened carpet along the walls could indicate a significant furnace defect, not simply dirty air ducts. It is possible that combustion exhaust is venting into your home, and this could be extremely hazardous.

Forget, for now, about the discolored carpet and have the furnace reviewed by a licensed HVAC contractor to ensure that there are no problems with the combustion or venting, and particularly that there are no defects in the heat exchanger. In the meantime, do not use the furnace.

New Home Defects Often Missed

2007-12-18T08:49:00.000-08:00

Dear Barry,
Is it necessary to get my own home inspection on a newly constructed home, or should the inspection by the city inspector be accepted as adequate?

Some readers may wonder why this subject, in varying forms, is recurrent in this column. It is because questions about inspecting new homes are asked so frequently and because the answer is vital to anyone who plans to buy a new home.

Experienced home inspectors have learned that all new homes have defects of one kind or another, regardless of the quality of construction or the integrity of the builder. This is because human imperfection prevents anything as large and as complex as a home from being constructed flawlessly.

A commonly held fallacy is that all construction defects will be discovered by municipal building inspectors. This view is highly mistaken, but not because of professional shortcomings on the part of those inspectors. The purpose, scope, time allotment and procedures for municipal inspections are not the same as for home inspections.

Municipal inspectors inspect primarily for code compliance, not for quality of workmanship. They can cite a builder for improper structural framing or for noncomplying drain connections, but a poorly fitted door, an uneven tile countertop and slipshod finish work are not included in the list of concerns.

Municipal inspectors rarely inspect an attic or a subarea crawl space. They come to the job site with a clipboard and a codebook, not with a ladder and overalls. Construction defects in such areas can escape discovery.

Municipal inspectors typically inspect a roof from the ground or possibly from the builder's ladder. From these perspectives, roof defects are not always apparent. And final inspections are performed before the utilities are turned on, so municipal inspectors cannot determine if or how well the appliances and fixtures truly work. They don't test outlets for ground and polarity because this can be done only after the power supply is turned on. Nor, without power, can they test the performance of GFCI or AFCI safety breakers.

The lack of utilities also prevents the testing of plumbing fixtures such as sinks, showers, tubs and dishwashers, and of gas fixtures such as furnaces, fireplaces and water heaters.

As repeatedly expressed in this column, those who buy new homes should not forego the benefits of a thorough home inspection. Just be sure to find an inspector with years of experience and a reputation for thoroughness.

To write to Barry Stone, please visit him on the Web at www.housedetective.com.

Install crown molding like a pro

2007-12-04T10:56:00.000-08:00

Q: I am remodeling my living room and would like to install a wide cove molding at the ceiling, but I need help in mitering the corners. Do I cut them at a 45-degree angle? Do I cope them? Any information would be greatly appreciated. --

A: Crown molding is one of the most attractive and interesting molding features you can add to a room. It is also, however, one of the more difficult finish carpentry tasks to undertake.

Crown molding sits at an angle to the wall, as opposed to a base molding that sits flat against it. Therefore, you have to deal with a compound miter -- one that angles in two directions at once -- as opposed to the standard miter used on a baseboard. You have several options open to you for how to do this, and I would recommend that you purchase some inexpensive, paint-grade crown molding to practice with until you get the hang of the techniques. Some of these techniques are also very difficult to explain in words, so your best bet is to purchase a book on finish carpentry (or get one from the library) that has illustrations of the various step-by-step procedures that follow:

Compound miter saw: If you have access to one, the easiest way to cut crown molding is with a compound miter saw. These saws have the ability to be set at an angle relative to the back fence as well as having the head of the saw set at an angle, allowing you to cut both angles at the same time. Full instructions for the proper angle settings are included with the saw (they differ with the type of crown molding being installed). If you have a lot of molding work to do you may want to invest in one, or they can also be rented.

Table or radial arm saw: You can also make compound miter cuts on a table saw by tilting the blade and then holding your molding against a miter gauge that's set at an angle. Table saws, however, tend to be awkward for handling long pieces of molding. You can also use a radial arm saw by angling both the arm and the blade, but I've found the cuts on these to be somewhat rough.

Standard miter saw and miter boxes: You can use a standard miter box or miter saw to cut crown molding. The trick is to cut the molding upside-down, and with both of the rear faces in perfect contact with the fence. In other words, the molding is upside-down and facing you, with the ceiling edge down and against the bottom of the miter box and the wall edge up and against the back of the box. You can then make the cut with the blade set at 45 degrees.

Coping: This is done by first square cutting the end of one piece of molding and running it all the way into the corner, then cutting the end of the intersecting one in a pattern that matches the face of the first piece. This is not as difficult as it may seem, but it does require some patience and the use of a relatively inexpensive hand tool called a coping saw.

Corner blocks: If you don't want to mess with angles at all, you can instal
l decorative corner blocks at each inside and outside corner, then simply square-cut the molding and butt it against the flat sides of the blocks. Corner blocks are not a stock item at most stores, so ask to see a molding catalog to find out what's available.

By the way, with whatever technique you decide on, crown molding is considerably easier, safer and more accurate to install if you have the help of a second person.

Published by Paul Bianchen - Inman News

Choosing new doors for your home.

2007-11-30T08:51:00.000-08:00

Friday, November 30, 2007By Paul Bianchina Inman News

If you wander down the aisles of any home center or door shop, you'll probably be surprised at how many different doors are available. Add to that the thousands of possible door styles, sizes and jamb combinations you find in the catalogs, and you quickly discover that there is an overwhelming number of choices.

If you're in the market for new or replacement doors for your home, here's a brief overview of some of the basics to help with your shopping.

1. Hollow Core: A hollow-core door has two flat or formed panels on the outside faces, which are attached to a wooden frame around the door's perimeter. Inside the door, between the perimeter frame pieces, are pieces of wood, cardboard or other material placed on edge to help stiffen the panels. Hollow-core doors are used for interiors only, and are less expensive than solid-core doors.

2. Solid Core: A solid-core door does not have any hollow voids inside it, and may be either flush or panel as described below. Solid-core doors are appropriate for both interior and exterior use, and help provide both security and sound-deadening qualities.

3. Flush Door: A flush door is one with flat sheets of various materials on the two outside faces, secured to an inner frame of wood or other material. Flush doors may be either hollow-core or solid-core, and the sheets may be paint-grade hardboard, veneer or steel, stain-grade hardwood or softwood, or fiberglass.

4. Panel Door: A true panel door is comprised of a framework of individual interlocking strips of wood, with solid wood panels inset into the framework. Because all the panels are solid with no voids, panel doors are considered solid-core doors. Panel doors are designated by how many panels they have, such as 4-panel, 6-panel, etc.

5. Simulated Panel Door: This is a door with two face panels of hardboard, fiberglass, steel or other material that have been formed under high pressure to create the appearance of a true panel door. Simulated panel doors may be hollow-core or solid-core, and are also designated by the number of panels they contain.

6. Louvered and Half-Louvered Door: A louvered door has a series of angled wooden slats set into a framework, and is commonly used inside where both ventilation and privacy are desired, as in a closet. In temperate climates, they are sometimes used as exterior doors as well. A half-louver door has a flush or inset panel on the lower half and louvers on the upper half, and may be hollow- or solid-core.

7. Swing: Doors with hinges are specified by which way they swing. The easiest way to remember this is to look at the door as it opens away from you. If the hinges are on the left, it's a left-hand door. If the hinges are on the right, it's a right-hand door.

8. Bi-Fold Doors: Bi-fold doors are made up of two or more narrower door units that are hinged to one another. The units closest to the jambs are attached to upper and lower pivots, and the units closest to the center of the doorway have a single upper roller that fits into an overhead track. The door units can be set up to open completely to one side of the opening, or to both sides for larger openings. When completely opened, bi-fold doors provide access to three-fourths or more of the entire door opening, which makes them a popular use for interior closets and storage areas. Virtually any type of door in any material, solid-core or hollow-core, can be used for bi-fold doors, and some types also have mirrored faces.

9. Bypass Doors: Bypass doors have rollers on the top, and are suspended from an overhead track that is attached to the upper door jamb. Bypass doors slide horizontally, with one passing to the inside or the outside of the other. Bypass doors are common for interior closets, and are available in different configurations and materials, included mirrored. Depending on the size of the opening, bypass doors may be made up of two, three or even four panels, and when open will provide access to one-half, two-thirds or three-fourths of the door opening, respectively.

10. Jambs: The three pieces of wood or other material that make up the finished framework of a door opening. The two long, vertical pieces are called jamb legs, and the shorter horizontal piece is the head jamb. In a doorway with a swinging door, the door is hinged to one jamb leg. With bi-fold and bypass doors, the track is mounted to the underside of the head jamb.

11. Casing: The trim that surrounds the doorway, and covers the gap between the back of the door jambs and the rough framing.

12. Prehung Door: A complete door and jamb unit, with the door already hinged to the jamb and ready for installation.

Tips on choosing a listing Agent in today's market.

2007-11-26T11:25:00.000-08:00

Friends, associates can provide a wealth of referrals

Monday, November 26, 2007By Dian Hymer Inman News

It wasn't too long ago when it didn't matter as much which real estate agent you chose to sell your house if it was located in one of the many hot seller markets. Listings sold without much assistance; many soon after the for-sale sign went up. Today, choosing the right agent for the job can make the difference between a sale and no sale.

There are many factors to consider in selecting an agent today. One is that many of the agents working now entered the business recently. They've never seen a softer home-sale market before. This doesn't mean that you shouldn't use an agent who doesn't have decades of experience. But, it means you need to find an agent with a definite set of skills.

Most sellers in this market want and need an agent that will provide an aggressive and broad-based marketing plan. However, some sellers may not be aware of how important it is to hire an agent who is an adept communicator. Today's successful agents don't stop selling when they find a buyer for your home. They manage the transaction carefully and skillfully until the sale closes.
It's not enough for an agent to promise to hold your home open every weekend until it sells. In fact, this might do more harm than good. In a slow market, a listing can be overexposed to the market and become shopworn.

The stress level of selling can be intense, particularly if property values are declining. Buyers can be demanding. You need to have confidence that your agent is representing your best interests and negotiating on your behalf in a professional manner.

Negotiating a purchase contract in this market can be an arduous endeavor. It may take multiple counteroffers back and forth to hammer out a deal. And, the fall-out rate is higher today than it was a few years ago.

Selecting an agent who is a good negotiator, who is patient and who will explore all options before letting a deal fall apart gives you a leg up. It helps if your agent has a good working relationship with other agents in the area. One of these agents is likely to represent the buyer for your home.

HOME SELLER TIP: Many agents, and real estate brokerage companies, will leave the business when they discover that they can't make enough money in the current market. Real estate agent ranks swelled immensely in recent years. For example, in California there are now 50 percent more real estate agents in the business than there were five years ago. Make sure that you work with an agent and a brokerage firm that is in the business for the long term.

Ask any agent you consider to provide you with a detailed marketing plan to let you know how he or she will accomplish the sale of your home. Don't even consider listing with an agent that doesn't market extensively on the Internet. Studies show that Internet buyers discount listings online that don't have photos. They assume that something must be wrong with the property. Check a sample of an agent's Internet marketing before signing up.

You may find that agents want longer than 90-day listing periods if sales are very slow in your area. This is understandable; agents typically pay for the marketing, and it's generally taking a lot longer for most homes to sell. Keep this in mind when you select your agent. You could be working with this person for some time.

THE CLOSING: A reliable source of agent recommendations is friends and associates who sold recently in your area, and would hire their agent again.

Don't let suprise defects deter buyers, waste marketing time

2007-11-19T10:46:00.000-08:00

Negotiating a purchase agreement is just one step among many in the home-sale process. Before the transaction closes, buyers usually have the property inspected to check for defects. If inspection issues crop up, the contract can be subject to renegotiation, which can derail the transaction altogether.

Real estate law and practice vary from one area to the next. Sometimes the buyers complete their inspections before they enter into contract to buy a home. But regardless of how homes are sold in your area, it's generally thought to be a good idea for sellers to conduct presale inspections before they put their home on the market.

Some sellers do pre-inspections to make sure that they completely disclose defects that may affect the value of the property. Others inspect so defects that might detract a buyer can be repaired before the property goes on the market.

Even if repairs aren't made before marketing, presale inspection reports can help you by making any bad news about the property known to a prospective buyer before he makes an offer. You can lose precious marketing time if you take your home off the market for a buyer who then backs out after he sees a home inspection report.

HOME SELLER TIP: In addition to obtaining presale inspections, consider contacting reputable contractors to provide repair estimates for significant defects that are noted in your inspection. Inexperienced home buyers often have no idea how much it will cost to replace a roof or remove asbestos from the heating system. Fear of the unknown is intimidating. A reasonable repair estimate may assuage the buyer's concern.

Also consider that a buyer whose experience with home maintenance is limited is more likely to estimate on the high side to be safe. Often actual repair costs are less than a buyer might imagine. Asbestos abatement is a good example.

Finding a contractor who will give you a realistic opinion of the condition of your property can be an issue. Many contractors would rather replace than repair. You want contractors who will do the job correctly for a reasonable price. Ask your real estate agent and acquaintances who recently had a good experience with a contractor for recommendations.

Unless you have the expertise to know if an estimate is reasonable, you should plan on getting more than one estimate. Estimates vary widely depending on variables like the contractor's workload. Recently, a homeowner who was preparing his home for sale was told that his tile roof needed replacing. The first bid he received was for more than $75,000. The second estimate was for $20,500. Both estimates were from reputable, licensed roofers.

If the estimates you receive vary significantly, as in the example above, think about having the work done before you put your home on the market by the contractor who issued the more reasonable bid. This way you are in charge of how much you spend on the repair. Just make sure that the contractor will warrant his work for the buyers.

In a hot seller's market, sellers can often sell "as is" regarding property defects. In a buyer's market, like we are currently experiencing in most parts of country today, you could find it difficult to sell your home if there is a lot of deferred maintenance.

It is a good idea to have as much repair work as possible done before you market your home. This will put you in a much better negotiating position. Your home will also appeal to more buyers, which should result in a timelier sale for a higher price.

THE CLOSING: Sellers who are unwilling or unable to complete repair work before they sell should be prepared to discount their list price accordingly.

Publised by Dian Hymer - Inman News

Snow Satety Tips to Survive the Winter Weather

2007-11-06T11:49:00.000-08:00

The cold winter weather shouldn't limit time enjoyed working on the home outdoors. Before venturing outside, ensure proper safety precautions are taken to avoid an accident or injury. Consider the following snow safety tips from The Home Depot Canada to help keep warm and safe all season long.

- Dress for outdoor success. Whether at work or play, bundle up in layered clothing to allow for better evaporation of perspiration. Outer garments should be tightly woven and water repellent. Wear boots or overshoes with non-skid soles to avoid slips and falls.

- Master the right shoveling technique. Before shoveling the walkway or driveway, ensure you are physically able. Arm yourself with a quality shovel that will last the entire winter. Lift with your leg muscles, not your back and remember, pace yourself and take frequent breaks.

- Blow it away. If shoveling is not your fancy, consider using a snow blower to push the white stuff away. Maintaining the blower will enhance performance and increase longevity. Check areas such as the engine oil levels, blower system chute positioning and tire pressure on a regular basis.

- Light the way. Since visibility is reduced in snowy weather and the winter brings darkness earlier, make sure you have well-lit walkways around the outside of the home.

- Roof clearing. If you need to clear the roof, try using long-handled snow rakes or poles. Should you require a ladder, make certain that the base is securely anchored. Ask a friend, family member or neighbour to hold the ladder while you climb.

- Winter warm-up. After spending time outdoors, snuggle up with a loved one and drink warm beverages like hot chocolate, coffee, tea or soup.

For more snow safety tips, visit The Home Depot store in your community.
~ News Canada

Choosing a quality kitchen range hood.

2007-11-02T09:01:00.000-07:00

Besides removing odors, best units get rid of moisture -- quietly

Friday, November 02, 2007By Paul Bianchina Inman News

In most kitchens, there is a simple appliance situated above your range or cooktop that often seems to be mistaken for nothing more than a big light fixture -- and in fact, the "builder's grade" range hood in many new homes really is little more than that. But your range hood serves a couple of very important purposes in the kitchen, and selecting the right one is something that warrants some comparison shopping.

Range hoods come in several sizes, finishes and designs, and that's where most people start when they're shopping for a new one. First of all, it needs to be the correct size to match the width of the opening in the cabinets above the range, and to match the width of the range or cooktop itself. Hoods come in a couple of standard sizes, including 30, 36 and 42 inches in width, with the depth being designed to fit with standard 12-inch-deep upper cabinets. There are some variations available in many of the higher-end models, so knowing the size you're looking for is the first step.

Typically, the next consideration is one of aesthetics. There are several finishes available, the most common being white, almond, black, stainless steel or some combinations of those colors. Then there's the design of the hood housing, which can range from the traditional rectangular box with the sloping front that is commonly see in kitchens of all types, to some very sleek, slender models that almost disappear into the cabinets.

AN EXHAUSTING CONSIDERATION

Size and aesthetics aside, it's time to take a look at what really makes the range hood function in the capacity that it's designed for -- exhausting air. Range hoods utilize a fan to draw air up and into them, through a filter, then through a duct to -- hopefully -- the outside. That air movement serves to remove cooking odors from the kitchen, and that's when most people will turn it on.

But the range hood has an even more important and often overlooked role as well, which is to remove moisture right at the source where it's being generated. Like a bathroom fan, the range hood lives to draw warm, moisture-laden air out of the home's interior and exhaust it to the outdoors before it can do any harm. For that reason, there are three additional things to pay very close attention to when buying and installing a range hood.

First of all, since the hood needs to remove moisture from the room, you want to avoid the temptation of purchasing a recirculating hood. Recirculating hoods do not require an exhaust duct, so they are considerably cheaper and easier to install. But since all they do is recirculate air through a filter to remove some of the grease and odor, they fail completely in their primary task of removing moisture.

Second, the hood has to be vented all the way to the outside. This is now a building code requirement in today's homes, but in years past range-hood ducts were often run into the attic and no further. As many homeowners have found to their shock and dismay, pumping all that warm, wet air up into the attic can cause a whole host of problems, including dryrot, mold, degraded insulation, and even severe structural damage.

Finally, the range hood needs to have adequate power to effectively remove the air. As with all types of ventilation fans, range hoods are rated in cubic feet per minute (CFM) of air movement. The higher the CFM rating, the more effective the fan is at drawing in room air and pushing through the duct. Larger rooms and larger ranges need more CFM to more an adequate amount of air for ventilation, but even small rooms need a greater amount of CFM if the exhaust air needs to be pushed though a long run of duct, or one with a large number of elbows and other fittings.

At their least expensive, hoods utilize a tiny plastic rotary fan on a vertical shaft, sort of like the propeller on an old beanie cap. Even though a massive 42-inch hood looks powerful enough to handle any ventilation chore, if it's equipped with an anemic motor and fan blade, the resulting air movement will be inadequate.

Better range hoods utilize a multifinned horizontal fan called a centrifugal fan, commonly known as a squirrel cage fan for its resemblance to a common animal exercise wheel. Centrifugal fans are much more efficient at moving air, and offer a higher CFM then a rotary fan with the same size motor.

The final consideration with your new range hood is its noise level, because even the best of hoods won't get used if it sounds like a Boeing 747 is headed for a landing on your kitchen counter. Range hoods are typically rated in sones, and the lower the sone rating the quieter the fan. As a means of comparison, one sone is about the noise that your refrigerator makes, and normal conversational levels are about four sones.

Restore brick fireplace the safe, easy way

2007-10-31T11:58:00.000-07:00

Homeowner seeks to rid structure of ugly latex paint

Wednesday, October 31, 2007By Bill & Kevin Burnett Inman News

Q: We are remodeling a 35-year-old home that has a nice brick fireplace. The previous owner used it to burn paper and other low-temperature items that produced a lot of smoke, resulting in a very heavy and unattractive buildup of carbon and soot. Worse, the owner used off-white, wall-color-matching, latex paint on the outside part (yes, right on the bricks) of the fireplace.

What must I do to restore some of the natural color and texture of the original brickwork? Sandblasting? Chemicals? Small bombs? And, what type of professional service should I engage to tackle this work, if you feel that "sweat equity" will not suffice?

A: Chemical stripping won't work very well, and we suspect that you had your tongue planted firmly in cheek when you mentioned a small bomb. The alternative we'd suggest is sandblasting.
We wouldn't take on a sandblasting job, especially an inside one. The preparation is intense and the cleanup of sand and leavings will be significant. Also, a deft touch with the wand is necessary to avoid gouging out too much mortar while trying to get rid of the paint. It's a job better left to the pros.

To find someone to tackle the job, we suggest you check the Yellow Pages. Call several blasters to see if they can do the job and get references. That's the route we'd go.
But you might want to consider another alternative to sandblasting -- refacing.

Our brother Bryan has a fireplace project going at his home in Eagle, Idaho. He just ordered a wood-burning, energy-efficient fireplace to replace an antiquated, poorly designed woodstove. Every time he tried to start a fire in the stove, he got smoked out.

When the workers removed the old stove, the flue opening was plugged with what Bryan said looked like a couple of deflated footballs, made of creosote. Needless to say, this is a serious fire hazard. If you haven't already done so, we recommend you employ a good chimney sweep to get your chimney in "fire shape."

Bryan's fireplace is faced with used brick. He doesn't like the look. Uncle George suggested -- you guessed it -- white paint. That isn't flying with Bryan. So Kevin suggested he consider refacing the brick with stone, tile or marble. In your case, consider following Kevin's recommendation and refacing with brick. It would be a lot less messy than sandblasting; you could choose the look you want; and it's definitely a do-it-yourself project.

If you decide to go this route, choose a veneer brick. It's thinner -- 3/8 to 3/4 inches thick -- and much lighter and easier to work with. It has all of the warmth of brick without the heft. For examples and more information, go to www.artobrick.com.

Q: I would like to reuse the ceramic floor tiles from my kitchen remodel (putting old tiles at the kickboard onto new cabinets). How do I get the mastic off the tiles? I've tried soaking, but that hasn't worked. Should I try muriatic acid?

A: We bet you've soaked them in water. That won't soften and remove the mastic, as you've discovered. Muriatic acid will work only on cement-based mortar. Instead, we suggest soaking the tiles in lacquer thinner followed by a good scraping with a wide putty knife and a scrub with a wire brush. Do the job outside, and wear gloves, eye protection and a respirator because the fumes from the solvent are strong and can burn skin and mucous membranes.
***

Copyright 2007 Bill and Kevin Burnett

2007-10-29T12:22:00.000-07:00

Real Estate market. If you have any comments please post them. Dora Baycroft.

Inexpensive Home Heating Tips
Hot, Not Bothered:
Inexpensive Home Heating TipsThe dramatically rising cost of home heating is a bothersome concern for most Canadians. Heating your home efficiently this winter will be the key to keeping your energy costs under control. Here are some quick, easy and, most importantly, inexpensive ways to maximize warmth and minimize impact to your pocketbook:

- Adjust Your Personal Thermostat: Wear a sweater and dress warmly around the house. When you're stationary, watching television or reading, you're most susceptible to a chill, so toss a throw around you. Since hot air rises, resist the icy influence of cooler floors with thick socks or slippers.-

Adjust Your Home Thermostat: It goes without saying that the less energy you use, the lower your heating bills will be. Set your thermostat at 21°C when you're home awake, 18°C when you're sleeping and 15°C when you're out of the house. Purchase a programmable thermostat to reduce you heating bill by as much as 20 per cent.-

Let the Sun Shine In: While up to 25 per cent of your home's heat is lost through its windows, they are also a source of solar warmth. During daylight hours, keep your drapes open and let the sun help heat your home. Insulate your windows with plastic film to reduce heat loss by 50 per cent. Insulating curtains are expensive, but pay for themselves within 7 years.-

Seal the Leaks:
Caulk, seal and weather strip around windows and doorframes, baseboards, ducting and electrical outlets to save up to 20 per cent on your heating bill. Remember to close your fireplace flue when you're not enjoying a fire. Install a door sweep to resist against under-the-door drafts. Turn off the heat supply and close the door to unused rooms, such as a guest bedroom. Close interior doors leading to hallways or stairways to keep the heat where it's needed most.
Pbulished by Royal LePage

Strem of low offers confuses home seller

2007-10-12T09:04:00.000-07:00

Q: I tried to sell a house for the appraised price and was unable to sell at that price. I understand that property will not sell when it is priced too high but the offers I received were $5,000 to $8,000 less than the appraisal.

I was under the impression that if I advertised the property for the appraised price, it would move quickly. I told one real estate agent when she made me an offer from a client that I was going to have the house appraised again and that I would provide the appraised price to the potential buyer so he could adjust his bid.

The agent didn't go for that at all. Can you give me some suggestions as to what I did wrong? When I couldn't sell the house, I finally rented it.

A: I think you made a few basic mistakes. First, the appraised value is not necessarily the same thing as the market value.

The appraised value of the home is what an appraiser thinks the home is worth based on the sales of other similar homes in the area. The market value is what someone will actually pay for the house.

In your case, either because of the condition or location of the home, the market is telling you that your home isn't worth what the appraiser thinks it should be worth--it's worth $5,000 to $8,000 less.

Getting a new appraisal doesn't change what someone will pay for the home. You'd be better off buying some cans of white paint and repainting the interior of the property. Then, you might get more money for it.

Renting the house is fine. Eventually, prices will rise in your neighborhood and you'll get your price, but not today. And only you can decide if waiting for prices to rise in order to get the extra $5,000 to $8,000 is worthwhile.

Q: My father died late last year and left a piece of property to my two sisters and me. Ownership is to be divided equally. The property is a house on Lake Michigan on the eastern shore, about due east of Chicago.

Local real estate agents have told us the property is worth $1.2 to $1.5 million. We all live too far away to use or manage the property and have decided to sell. However, one sister insists on doing nothing this year and waiting until next spring to sell. She says she heard one should wait at least a year to sell inherited property and that it "feels right" to wait.

Can you give me some reasons why we should either wait or sell immediately? My own feeling is that the taxes for this property are going to be very high once my father's "grandfathered" tax rate lapses.

A: First, I'd like to offer my condolences on the loss of your father.

Although I'm sure you and your sisters are missing your dad, I can't think of any reason why you wouldn't want to put your dad's house on the market now--when vacation homes are selling like hotcakes. The carrying costs (taxes and maintenance) on a house that expensive could be costly, especially if none of you are near enough to use it regularly and make sure that small problems don't turn into big issues.

I think the advice your sister is remembering refers to individuals who have experienced a huge trauma, like the death of a spouse or partner. In those cases, if the individual can afford to wait, it is a good idea to let a year go by while he or she adapts to the new circumstances of a new life.
In your case, you won't gain anything by waiting a year to sell this property. You have inherited the property at the current market value (which may even be able to be adjusted to whatever price you sell it for this spring). That means you would pay no capital gains tax on your inheritance when you sell.

And after the expense of selling it (broker's commission, transfer taxes, etc.), you would each pocket a significant amount of cash.

I think that you should sell now, especially since interest rates might rise significantly in the next year, which could dampen interest in an expensive vacation property. But it doesn't really matter what I think.

You and your siblings need to talk this out so everyone is comfortable with the plan. If you're having trouble agreeing, ask an estate attorney to mediate.

Contact Ilyce through her Web site, www.thinkglink.com.Copyright 2006 Ilyce R. Glink

Don't make this mistake with homeowners insurance

2007-09-27T09:01:00.000-07:00

Why updating policy after paying off mortgage is so crucial

Thursday, September 27, 2007By Ilyce R. Glink Inman News

I received these comments after answering a question in a recent column about any changes that should be made on a homeowners insurance policy:

Comment: I read your recent column in the Hartford Courant. One reader asked if any changes were needed on the home's insurance policy once the mortgage was paid off.

Your answer was "no." You stated that no changes needed to be made on the insurance policy. I disagree. If a mortgage company or bank is listed as a mortgagor or loss payee on the insurance policy, then that entity should be removed from the policy once the loan is paid off.

Ilyce: If a fire or other loss results in a claim, the insurance company will issue the loss payment or settlement check for that claim payable to both the insured (the homeowner) and the mortgagor if the name has not been removed. The proper paperwork needs to be submitted to the insurance company to have the mortgage company or bank deleted from the policy. It would not have any financial interest in the home once the mortgage is paid off.

Comment: I believe your comment that nothing needs to be done is in error. The reader should have his homeowners insurance policy modified to remove the lending institution as an additional insured. Otherwise the reader would have to locate and request the lender sign off on any claim settlement checks should the property be damaged at some future date.

The reader should also request that tax and insurance bills be sent to him for payment rather than to the lending institutions' escrow accounts.

Ilyce: Loretta Worters, a spokesperson for the Insurance Information Institute, agrees it is a good idea to notify your insurance company that your mortgage has been paid off.

"When you have paid off your mortgage, the title is returned to the borrower," who is also the homeowner, she explained. The homeowner "would need to notify the insurance company that the title is now in his name, but the bank may automatically do it."

According to Worters, this is an important thing to do to smooth the claims-paying path in case you have a loss.

"If you have a loss, the check would be made out to you and to the bank because theoretically the bank owns your home," she explained. If you remove the lender's name from the policy once your mortgage is paid off, only your name would be printed on the check, which helps cut down on the paperwork.

If you don't remove the bank's name, it slows down the process of getting you a check because there would be additional paperwork to complete.

"It's more of an inconvenience. The check would have to be reissued. The insurance company would probably look for proof that the loan has been paid off -- such as the title from the bank. It's not awful but it would take time. If you're looking to get a claim paid to rebuild a home after a catastrophe, you want to get it paid as quickly as possible," she said.

When you refinance your mortgage, you'll need to notify your insurance company as well, says Worters, so that new lender is named on the homeowners insurance policy. Typically, the lender takes this step for you.

Worters said there are typically two areas where problems creep up when it comes to homeowners insurance and mortgages.

Ninety-eight percent of homeowners have homeowners insurance because the lender requires it. But once a home loan has been paid off, some homeowners decide they no longer want to pay for homeowners insurance.

"It's extremely dangerous, because if they experience a loss after the policy lapses, they are on their own and they may not be aware of it. Banks automatically include homeowners insurance as part of the package on many mortgages. So you may not even be aware of your premium or your coverage," Worters explained. "But once your home is paid in full, you will no longer get notices about homeowners insurance and it could slip through the cracks."

The best way to contact your insurance company is to call first, and then follow up in writing. Be sure to keep a copy of the letter, which you should send via registered mail, return receipt requested.

How to protect home from winter's fury

2007-09-21T09:42:00.000-07:00

By Paul Bianchina Inman News

With fall's transition between the seasons comes a transition for your home as well. That roof and those four sturdy walls need to protect you from winter's fury, and there are several things you can do to help get ready.

1. Seal masonry surfaces: Apply a sealer to concrete driveways and walkways, brick patios and other exterior masonry. The sealer, available from paint stores and masonry supply retailers, prevents water from penetrating into cracks and crevices where it can freeze and cause serious damage.

2. Prepare your fireplace: Now is the time to get wood-burning appliances such as fireplaces and woodstoves ready for the season. Remove ash buildup; check screens and glass doors for damage; replace door gaskets as needed; and check doors, door latches, screen brackets, and other metal parts to be sure they are secure and operating properly. Check the condition of the exterior of the chimney or flue pipe, including the cap, and then clean the chimney to remove last season's accumulation of soot and creosote. Consider having a professional chimney sweep service clean and check everything at least every other year.

3. Prepare humidifiers: Winter is a dry time inside your home, and many people choose to use a portable or central humidifier to put much-needed moisture back into the air. Now is the time to check your humidifier to make sure it's operating properly, that all necessary plates and filters are in place, and that the system is clean and the water supply is correct. Check your operating and maintenance instructions for more information.

4. Check the gutters: Check and clean gutters to remove leaf and pine needle debris, and check that the opening between the gutter and the downspout is unobstructed. Look for loose joints or other structural problems with the system, and repair them as needed using pop rivets. Use a gutter sealant to seal any connections where leaks may be occurring.

5. Change your furnace filters: Replace your old furnace filter with a new one. While you're at it, check the furnace for worn belts, lubrication needs or other servicing that might be required; refer to your owner's manual for specific suggestions, and follow any manufacturer safety instructions for shutting the power and fuel to the furnace before servicing.

6. Install a carbon monoxide detector: As we close up our houses for winter, the chances of carbon monoxide poisoning from malfunctioning gas appliances increases substantially. If you have a fireplace, water heater, or other appliance that is fueled by propane or natural gas, fall is an ideal time to install a carbon monoxide detector -- available from many home centers and retailers of heating system supplies. While you're at it, consider also having a professional heating contractor come out and inspect all of the fittings and components on your gas appliances.

7. Check smoke detectors: Fall is a great time to check the operation of your smoke detectors and to change batteries. You should also consider installing additional smoke detectors outside each bedroom.

8. Close off foundation vents: Depending on the winter climate in your area, you'll want to be thinking about closing off your foundation vents to help prevent pipe freezes. You can leave the foundation open for as many months as the weather remains mild, but close them off when the local forecasts begin calling for freezing temperatures. Once closed, you can leave them that way until it warms up again in the spring.

9. Check weatherstripping: Air leaks around doors and windows can rob your home of expensive heated air and create uncomfortable drafts that keep you feeling chilly. Check the weatherstripping around doors and windows, and replace any that are worn -- retailers who specialize in doors and windows can fix you up with the proper replacement type for your situation. Now is also a good time to close up a few more air leaks by checking the condition of caulking around exterior door and window frames.

Do We Need A Home Inspector?

2007-09-11T09:50:00.000-07:00

We're buying a brand-new retirement condo. Should we get our own inspector or just rely on the builder's inspector? Or, do we really even need an inspection? After all, we will have a year to request repairs if anything goes wrong during the warranty period. --Diana

Dear Diana,

There are two reasons why you need a professional inspector of your own. The inspector you hire will be there to discover every visible and accessible defect, regardless of whether that discovery is profitable for the builder. The builder's inspector has other loyalties, related of course to the source of his paycheck. His allegiance is to the builder, not to you.

Reason number two involves the common assumption that the one-year warranty will cover all inherent defects. All the warranty covers are the defects that you discover during that first year.

For example, if an appliance ceases to function, or if a sink drain begins to leak, you will probably notice the problem and call it to the attention of the builder. But what about less obvious defects? Suppose there is a safety violation at the garage firewall, or an improper gas connection at the water heater, or a chimney installed too close to combustible materials in the attic, or some portion of the roof that was not properly flashed, or some ungrounded electrical outlets. It is unlikely that you would become aware of such problems during the first year, and those conditions would remain after the warranty had expired.

No one should ever buy a new home without hiring a professional home inspector because all new homes have construction defects, regardless of the competence or the integrity of the builder.

Published by Barry Stone - Inman News

Do Open Houses Work?

2007-09-06T16:47:00.000-07:00

From InmanWiki -->

What are the odds that you'll find your dream at a Sunday open house? What is the likelihood that your home will sell at an open house? Open houses are an integral part of the home sale business. But, do they work?

There are two types of open houses. One is for real estate agents. The purpose of the broker's open house is to introduce a new listing to local agents. The chance that a home will sell as a result of a broker's open house is relatively high. Serious buyers usually work closely with agents in order to find a home. By exposing a listing to more agents, you increase the number of showings to bone fide buyers.

Sunday open houses are more of a hit-and-miss proposition. When a home is open to the public, it is open to anyone who wants to take a look. Not everyone who walks through will be a legitimate buyer.

Some open house visitors will be neighbors. This is not all bad. Some neighbors have friends or relatives who may want to relocate into the area.

Most people who visit open houses are directed there by the signs. This means they don't have much information about the house when they walk in the front door. So even when open house visitors are legitimate buyers, they may not be well-qualified for the house in question. They may need a larger house or a smaller house, or something more or less expensive.

The biggest beneficiary of a public open house is often the agent holding the house open. Open houses give agents an opportunity to meet prospective home buyers and sellers face-to-face in a relatively non-threatening environment. An open house can be a source of future business leads for the agent.

From a seller's perspective, there are pros and cons to having a home held open to the public. On the positive side, an open house gives buyers' agents the opportunity to send their clients through the property. Buyers who may be reluctant to make an appointment to see a new listing, will often be willing to stop in at a Sunday open house. Sometimes, they are pleasantly surprised by what they see.

Buyers' agents sometimes make the mistake of screening listings too carefully for buyers. When this happens, one of the only ways buyers will be exposed to a rejected listing is if they find it on their own at a Sunday open house.

Open houses can be abused, however. If a listing is open all the time, there's no reason for a buyer to make an appointment to view it privately. The most productive showings occur when buyers visit a listing with their agent, privately--without the distraction of others.

FIRST-TIME TIP:
From a buyer's perspective, visiting Sunday open houses can be both informative and misleading. One way to learn market value, and to educate yourself about the inventory, is to look at a lot of houses. Touring Sunday open houses is one way to see a lot of houses in a short period of time.

However, if you limit your home search to only those homes that are held open to the public, you may miss out on good listings. Some sellers don't want their homes held open to the public. The only way to see these listings is by appointment.

THE CLOSING:
Well-priced listings sometimes sell before they are ever held open to the public. Don't wait until the open house to see a hot new listing if your agent tells you that it might sell quickly.

Copyright Dian Hymer
Distributed by Inman News

Stay Safe When Installing Kitchen Range, Oven

2007-08-24T10:59:00.000-07:00

Handy@HomeBy Paul BianchinaDistributed by Inman News

Stay safe when installing kitchen range, oven
July 27, 2007

Getting to be time for some new kitchen appliances? One way to save some money along the way is to do the installation yourself, which is not as hard as you might think.
Most appliances come in several standard sizes, so if you can find a replacement that's the same size as the old one, the installation is considerably easier. New appliances that are larger then the old ones will require that you enlarge the cabinet or countertop opening, which can sometimes be a tough chore. New appliances that are smaller will require that you reduce the size of the opening, and that can definitely lead to a number of problems.

SOME GENERAL PRECAUTIONS

1. Always shut the electricity and gas supplies to the appliance before removal and reinstallation. Do not reactivate either one until you are sure all the installation steps have been completed, and all of the tape and other packaging materials have been removed. If you have any questions or concerns about the gas or electrical supply or connections, or any other installation step, always consult a licensed professional before proceeding.
2. Appliances are very heavy and require two people for installation. Do not try to do this all by yourself -- you risk damage to the appliance, the cabinets, the floor, and, most importantly, you!
3. Place a piece of plywood, heavy cardboard, packing blankets or other protective material over your kitchen floor to prevent damage to the flooring during the removal and installation steps.

RANGES

Ranges are found in three basic configurations. These include freestanding, which sit on the floor and fit between the counter on either side of it; slide-in, which sit on the floor but also overlap the counters for a cleaner, more custom look; and drop-in, which rest on both the counter and the lower part of the cabinet, and do not go all the way to the floor.

Freestanding ranges are very easy to install. Remove the old one by sliding it forward enough to reach and unplug the electrical cord or disconnect the gas line, then remove it completely from the opening. Install a new electrical pigtail (power cord) or gas line on the new range following the manufacturer's instructions, slide the new range into the opening, plug in the cord or connect the gas line, and adjust the leveling feet as needed. Slide-in ranges are installed in the same manner, but the countertop cutout might need to be adjusted slightly prior to installation -- check the manufacturer's template for exact sizes.

A drop-in range is typically hard-wired instead of just plugging in. Slide the range out far enough to access the electrical junction box and then disconnect the wires (or disconnect the gas line), then remove the old range by lifting it out of the opening. Consult the manufacturer's templates and make any adjustments to the cabinet and counter openings that might be required. Carefully lift the new range into position, reconnect the wires or gas line, and then slide the range completely into place. If required, finish the installation by installing any fastening screws provided by the manufacturer.

COOKTOPS

A cooktop drops into an opening in the countertop, so here again it is best to have a replacement unit that fits directly into the old opening. To remove the old cooktop, disconnect the wires inside the junction box or disconnect the gas line, both of which should be located inside the lower cabinet. Lying on your back reach up inside the cabinet and undo the fasteners that hold the cooktop against the countertop -- usually screws, small bolts or thumbscrews. Lift the old cooktop out of the opening.

Check and adjust the countertop openings as needed, then drop the new unit into the counter. Following the manufacturers instructions, install the fasteners that hold the cooktop to the counter. Finally, reconnect the electrical or gas lines.

BUILT-IN OVENS

First, remove the old oven door. This will give you access to the fasteners, and will also make the oven lighter and easier to remove. Unscrew the attachment screws that hold the oven to the cabinet, then slide the oven partly out of the opening. Rest the oven on a bucket, box or other support, and disconnect the electrical wiring or gas line, then remove the oven completely.
Check the cabinet opening to be sure the new oven will fit properly, and adjust as needed. Remove the oven door, following the manufacturer's instructions, then carefully lift the oven partly into the opening and support it as before. Reconnect the electrical or gas lines, and slide the oven all the way into the cabinet. Check the fit, and then secure the oven in place by installing the new attachment screws. For hardwood cabinets, be sure you predrill the cabinet before attempting to install the screws.

Copyright 2007 Inman News

To File Or Not To File A Homeowner's Insurance Claim?

2007-08-17T08:58:00.000-07:00

When it makes financial sense

Friday, August 17, 2007By Paul Bianchina Inman News

It's an unfortunate fact of life that bad things can occasionally happen to your home. Water damage from a broken pipe or a fire from an overheated stove can happen at any time, and can easily cause tens if not hundreds of thousands of dollars in structural damages and contents losses.

That, of course, is why you have homeowner's insurance. But the question that often comes up is "Should I file a claim?" It's not always an easy one to answer, and there are several factors you need to weigh before you make that decision.

IS IT A COVERED LOSS?

The first question that comes up is whether the loss is covered by your homeowner's policy. Generally, the policy will stipulate that the damage to the home needs to be "sudden and accidental." Some examples would be a pipe that freezes and breaks; a washing machine or a toilet that overflows; an electrical circuit that overheats and starts a fire; a wind storm that causes shingles to blow off the roof or a tree limb to come crashing down; or a drunk driver that misses the corner and smashes into the front of your house.

Things that are typically not covered include ongoing maintenance issues, such as a plumbing drip that has gone on for many months or shingles that fail because they are past their useful life. Flooding and earthquake damage are typically not covered unless you have specific coverage on your policy, and many homeowners' policies now either exclude or limit coverage for mold.

WHAT'S THE VALUE OF THE LOSS?

Another key question about whether or not to file a claim is the value of the loss. Some people view their homeowner's policy as something to be used for a loss of any size, while others view it in the same vein as a major-medical insurance policy -- it should be used only in the event of something catastrophic.

Every homeowner's policy carries a deductible amount, which is a sum of money that you are required to pay toward the value of the loss. For example, suppose your home is damaged and the contractor will charge $10,000 to repair it. If you have a $1,000 deductible on your policy -- a fairly common amount these days -- the insurance company will settle with you for $9,000, and you will have to make up the other $1,000 of the contractor's bill.

The size of your deductible contributes to your thinking on whether or not you want to file a claim. If you have a loss that is valued at $1,200 and you have a $1,000 deductible, the $200 that the insurance company would contribute toward the repairs would not be worth having a claim on your record. On the other hand, a $1,000 deductible would be a minor contribution to make against a major fire damage claim that resulted in $75,000 worth of damage.

You will need to weigh the value of the loss against your own financial situation and the impact that the claim will have on your record before you make the final decision to file a claim.

WHAT ABOUT CLAIM HISTORY?

Many people hesitate to file a property damage claim due to concerns about their "claim record," which is the history of claims that have been filed against a particular piece of property. In general, insurance companies look at the number of claims filed against a piece of property in the last three to five years, the nature of those claims (fire, water, storm, etc.), and the dollar value of the claims.

Different insurance companies seem to have different criteria for how they view claim history and how they weight the different factors, but all of them do take the property's history into consideration in one way or another when it comes to rates and whether you will be eligible for renewal when a policy expires.

Remember that this is typically the record of claims filed on a particular piece of property, not claims filed by a particular person (although that may be taken into consideration as well). As such, you may be filing your first-ever claim on the house you've owned for the last two years, not realizing that there had been two previous claims filed by the last homeowner. For that reason, when you purchase a previously owned home, it's a good idea to ask for a disclosure of any claims that have been filed against the home.

DON'T BE AFRAID TO ASK

Filing a claim is not something to do casually, or to do on a loss that is not very much over your deductible. On the other hand, you shouldn't feel like you need to shy away from a claim if you need the insurance company's help in making the necessary repairs -- that is, after all, why you have the policy.

Unfortunately, the typical insurance policy is not written in plain English, so it may be difficult to understand what is and isn't covered. There is also nothing in the policy about how claim history affects you. So, if you have any questions about coverage, deductibles, claim history or anything else pertaining to how well your single biggest asset is protected, don't ever be afraid to ask your agent for clarification.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paul2887@ykwc.net.

Attic Ventilation Makes A Healthy Home

2007-08-10T08:54:00.000-07:00

Handy@HomeBy Paul BianchinaDistributed by Inman News

June 15, 2007

If you're like most folks, you've probably never given any consideration to how well ventilated your attic is. But proper attic ventilation is very important to your home's good health, both in summer and winter.

In the summer, a good flow of ventilation will remove unwanted heat that is trapped in the attic. That heat can damage the roofing, and it also makes it that much more difficult to keep your home cool. In the winter, removing attic heat allows the underside of your roof to stay closer to the ambient temperature of the outside air, which helps prevent ice damming. And throughout the year, good attic ventilation removes excess moisture before it can accumulate and create the potential for mold growth or damage to wooden structural members.

Properly installed, attic ventilation works on the natural passive movement of air. For the typical attic, this means a combination of low vents along the eaves of the roof, and high vents along roof's ridge. Since the air in the attic is warmer at the ridge than it is at the eaves, lower temperature air is drawn in through the low vents, pushing the higher temperature air out through the high vents. While the movement of air is more dramatic in the summer when attic temperature differentials are higher, this movement actually occurs at all times and in all temperatures.

VENTILATION REQUIREMENTS

How much ventilation your attic needs depends on the size of your house and, to some degree, its shape. To determine ventilation requirements, most building codes rely on a simple mathematical formula of 1 square foot of ventilation area for every 300 square feet of attic area. For example, if your home has 1,500 square feet of living space, you would need 5 square feet of vent area to provide an adequate amount of air flow (1,500 square feet divided by 300 = 5).
Since it is the passive movement of the air through the attic that creates the ventilation, the placement of the vents is a very important consideration in how effective they will be. They need to be installed so that roughly half are in high locations along the ridge or in the gable ends, and half are placed low along the eaves.

Attached garages can add to the ventilation load of the home as well. If your home has an attached garage and the attic of the garage is continuous with the attic of the house, then the square footage of the garage needs to be included as well. For example, if your 1,500 square foot home has a 500 square foot attached garage and the attics are continuous with one another, then the required vent area goes from 5 square feet to 6.67 square feet (1,500 square feet + 500 square feet = 2,000, divided by 300 = 6.67).

If the garage is attached to the house but the attics are not continuous, you have a slightly different situation. Because the attic of the garage is still going to get warm (even if the garage does not have a ceiling), that heat is still going to have an impact on both the garage roofing and the heat being transferred to the house, not to mention on the garage itself and all its contents. Therefore, the garage attic needs to be ventilated as well. You can use the same 1:300 formula, but the square-foot requirements and the layout of the vent locations for the garage should be considered independently of the house attic.

NET-FREE AREA

If you were to purchase a vent that is 12 inches by 12 inches (one square foot) in overall size, you would not actually be getting one square foot of ventilation area. The framework of the vent and especially the insect screening in it reduces the overall amount of area that the air can actually pass through -- sometimes by as much as half.

For that reason, vents are rated in net-free area (NFA), which is the actual amount of open ventilation area that the vent contains after deducting out all of the space taken up by the frame and the screening. The exact NFA will be printed directly on the vent by the manufacturer, and it's important to utilize this number as opposed to the overall size of the vent in making your calculations for how many vents you will need.

With whatever type of vents you use, remember to keep them free of insulation and other debris that reduce their effectiveness, and to be certain that all bathroom, kitchen and other exhaust fans in the house are vented all the way to the outside, not into the attic.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paul2887@hughes.net.

Copyright 2007 Inman News

Save Money On Home Improvement

2007-08-03T08:51:00.000-07:00

Where to find best deals on materials

Friday, August 03, 2007By Paul Bianchina Inman News

There's no denying it -- remodeling, repairing and decorating your home can be an expensive undertaking. But with a little creativity and some wise shopping decisions, you'd be surprised at how much you can save on your next project!

Lumber: There are a number of different lumber grades available, and the higher grades also carry higher price tags. If you don't need the increased structural capacity or better appearance of the higher grades, save some money by selecting a lower grade that's appropriate for the intended use. Also, many lumber yards have piles of lumber that are culled out because it's warped, split or otherwise unsuitable for sale at full retail. You can often pick this material up at sizable discounts, and it's perfectly good for jobsite uses such as blocking, temporary bracing, etc.

Beams: Another place to save some money is with the purchase of beams. Many structural-engineered lumber beams come in long lengths that are cut on site at the lumber yard, leaving drops that are too short for long spans. You can often pick these up cheap, and they can be used as headers for doors and small windows, or in other framing applications.

Large versus small packaging: Some construction items, such as nails, screws and other hardware, are available in both small and large packaging. Buying in larger packages saves you money on a per-pound basis, so long as you have a need for the items now or in the foreseeable future. If you only intend to use a few of the items, you're better off buying the smaller packages
-- even though you pay a little more per pound, you don't waste money on excess you'll never use.

Bulk buying: Along those same lines is buying in bulk. Items such as sand, topsoil, gravel, bark, and other bulky construction and landscaping materials can be purchased in bags, but you really pay a premium on a per-cubic-yard basis for that convenience. If you have a pickup truck or a small trailer, picking these materials up yourself in bulk will save you quite a bit of money. For even larger quantities, paying a small fee to have them delivered will still result in a sizable per-yard discount over bagged material.

Concrete: For small jobs such as setting a fence post, you can't beat the convenience of bagged concrete mix. But once your project gets up around a quarter of a cubic yard, bagged concrete becomes a whole lot harder on both your wallet and your back. Many towns have small-yardage concrete companies that are much more economical, and you can also have a full-size concrete truck deliver the wet material for a very reasonable "short-load" fee.

Small pieces of plywood: Many home centers and lumber yards have smaller, precut pieces of plywood and other materials, and you can save yourself some money if you only need a small piece for a one-time project. However, these small panels are quite expensive on a per-square-foot basis, so if you have a future need for the plywood and a place to store it, you're definitely money ahead by buying a full sheet and cutting it yourself.

Tools: When a home-improvement project calls for a particular tool that you don't currently have, consider how often you might use that tool in the future. If it's a basic item, such as a circular saw or even a paint brush, that will see a lot of use over the years, then buy the best you can afford. It's safer, easier to use, and its long life will more than pay for itself when compared to cheaper tools that require periodic repair or replacement. A tool you might only use a few times could be a lesser expensive model, so long as it's safe. If the tool will more than likely be a one-time use, consider renting instead of buying.

Sweat equity: Got a little more time than money? If you're having work done on your home, talk with the contractor about what things you can reasonably do -- and the key word is reasonably -- to save some money. Perhaps you can do your own painting, or scrap things out and clean up the site at the end of each day. But whatever your agreement is, get it in writing!

Seconds, roll ends and discontinued items: Many retailers have items such as appliances and plumbing fixtures that they sell at sizable discounts because they are slightly blemished, have minor scratches or are in the store because someone misordered them. Flooring companies often have "roll ends" of carpet and vinyl for sale at a fraction of their original price, and that are perfect for smaller rooms. Many paint stores will have sales on mismatched or mistinted paint, or wallpaper that was misordered. Tile stores often have a sizable inventory of discontinued tiles, stones, grouts and other materials at great prices. If you can be a little flexible and creative in your design thinking and are willing to do a little research, you'll find there are bargains all around you!

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paul2887@ykwc.net.
***

It Pays To Hire Home Inspector Before Selling

2007-07-24T08:37:00.000-07:00

Discovering defects now can avoid a host of legal trouble

Tuesday, July 24, 2007 By Barry Stone Inman News

Dear Barry,
I'm getting ready to sell my home and would like to hire a home inspector before I put it on the market. It seems that a pre-marketing inspection would give me a better idea of needed improvements before I sell. Is this wise or not? --

Your approach demonstrates a wisdom not commonly realized by sellers. Buyers typically hire the home inspector after the purchase contract has been signed. The inspector provides a list of defects, and then the buyers ask the sellers to make repairs, to reduce the price, or sometimes to cancel the sale. When you provide a home inspection report prior to signing the contract, you avert this process of renegotiation.

Essentially, there are three benefits for sellers who hire a home inspector prior to marketing a property:

1. The inspection report informs you, in advance, of any significant defects that might need attention and that could adversely affect your chances of selling the property. It affords you the opportunity to make repairs prior to sale.

2. The report enables you to provide a more thorough and complete disclosure of the property's condition. This lessens the likelihood of legal problems after the sale, when undisclosed defects might then be discovered.

3. The report provides the best basis for an as-is sale, if that is what you prefer. You can decline to make repairs while fully informing the buyers of the conditions that need repair.

Sellers would do themselves a great service by taking this proactive approach to the disclosure process.

Fence Doesn't Always Show True Lot Line

2007-07-20T09:49:00.000-07:00

July 19, 2007

DEAR BOB: I own a commercial property with residential lots in the rear. There is a fence along the rear of my property, about 7 feet within my side of the property line. There is a paved parking lot on my side of my fence. One of the residential houses in back of my lot was recently sold, remodeled and flipped. The flipper landscaped his backyard up to my fence, making it look as though my property is part of his yard. The buyers are using my fence as their backyard boundary. I'm not sure if the buyers of that house understand they don't own the 7-foot strip of my lot on their side of my fence. What should I do? --

: If I understand the situation correctly, the fence is 7 feet on your side of the lot boundary. To protect your interest in that 7-foot strip of your lot -- which the previous adjoining owner landscaped -- you or your attorney should send the new owner a polite letter informing him of the true boundary location, which is 7 feet from the fence.

Purchase Bob Bruss reports online.

With limited exceptions, fences are not automatically lot boundaries (although they often are built on boundary lines).

If the neighbor continues using your 7-foot strip of land without your permission, it may be possible for him to acquire a permanent prescriptive easement to use that land strip forever. One way to prevent this is to grant permissive use.

The reason is acquiring a prescriptive easement requires open, notorious, hostile (without permission) and continuous use for the number of years required by state law.

Another alternative would be for you to erect a new fence along the true boundary, which, if I understand you correctly, would be 7 feet within the neighbor's landscaped area. For full details, please consult a local real estate attorney.

Published by Bob Bruss/Inman News

Trespasser May Be Granted Legal Use Of Your Property

2007-07-13T09:10:00.000-07:00

Have you checked your easements lately?

Friday, June 29, 2007By Robert J. Bruss Inman News

Editor's note: Robert Bruss is temporarily away and will return next week. The following column from Bruss' "Best of" collection first appeared Sunday, June 25, 2006.

Not too long ago, a neighbor asked if I knew where our sewer and storm drains are located. He apparently wants to adjust the drainage on his property to drain into the public storm sewer drain, which I knew adjoins our lots.

After that brief conversation, I checked the legal description for my property. All it says is the city has a public utility easement along the northerly 5 feet of my property. But the easement description doesn't say what underground utilities are there and exactly where they are located.
Purchase Bob Bruss reports online.

Further research in the public records might reveal exactly what underground public utility easements pass through my property and exactly where they are located.

WHAT IS AN EASEMENT? Virtually every property in an urban area is subject to one or more easements. An easement is the legal right of a public or private entity to use part of a real property owner's land.

The property that is burdened by an easement is called a "servient tenement" because the easement serves another parcel. The property that benefits from the easement is called the adjoining dominant tenement."

There is always a servient tenement. However, there is not always an adjoining dominant tenement, such as for a public utility easement.

Private easement examples include a driveway, path or garden area of a neighbor's property. Public easements include utility easements for water, sewer, storm drain, electric lines, phone lines, gas pipes and cable TV lines.

Most easements are obtained with permission of the original property owner, usually at the time a subdivision is developed. The utility easements are often granted free by the developer in return for the city or private utility bringing public services to the property.

But some easements are hostile, without the specific permission of the property owner. To illustrate, suppose I drive over part of your property to reach my garage because that route is shorter and easier than using my steep driveway to reach the public street. Even if you tell me to stop driving over your land, but I continue to do so for the number of years required by state law, eventually I can obtain a permanent prescriptive easement for that purpose.

To be valid, an easement must be recorded against the title of the property that is subject to the easement, such as a shared driveway between two houses.

A very rare easement is an easement by necessity. Most states have laws allowing creation of an easement by necessity to reach a landlocked parcel, which has no driveway or other access to a public road.

The legal theory is all land should have road access, and when the landlocked parcel was created the owner at that time forgot to include access. A quiet title lawsuit is usually required to create an easement by necessity over an adjoining parcel that has public road access and, at some time in the past, had common ownership with the landlocked parcel.

THREE BASIC TYPES OF EASEMENTS. Virtually every real estate parcel is burdened by some type of easement. To be valid, the easement must either be recorded in the public records affecting a specific parcel, or it must be capable of being perfected into a valid easement.

1. EASEMENTS APPURTENANT BENEFIT AN ADJOINING PARCEL.

Where there is a dominant tenement that benefits from an easement, such as for a driveway, that is an easement appurtenant. Most easements appurtenant were created when a subdivision was developed, or when two adjoining lots were subdivided.

An easement appurtenant is usually recorded against both parcels, describing the details of that easement. To be valid, an easement appurtenant must be recorded against the servient tenement title. It is usually also recorded against the dominant tenement title.

When a parcel is landlocked without public road access, it is up to the owner of that parcel to prove entitlement to an easement by necessity. If the court approves such an easement, it becomes an easement appurtenant with dominant and servient tenements.

2. EASEMENTS IN GROSS AFFECT MOST PROPERTIES.

Virtually every property with electricity, phone, TV cable, public water, sewer, and storm drain utility service is subject to one or more easements in gross. Most such easements are recorded in the public records against each property title affected.

An easement in gross has a servient tenement, but no dominant tenement. Sometimes such easements were not properly recorded. If the easement in gross is obvious, such as for overhead power lines, it is hard for the property owner to deny awareness.

But underground easements in gross, such as for water, sewer and gas pipes, might not be obvious. To avoid unexpected surprises, property buyers should insist on receiving an owner's title insurance policy at the time of purchase. If an underground easement in gross is later discovered, but it was not disclosed in the owner's title insurance policy, the title insurer may be liable to the property owner for damages.

For example, suppose you decide to build a swimming pool in your backyard. As the contractor is digging, he discovers a previously undisclosed city sewer through the middle of your backyard. If the city's sewer easement was properly recorded, but the title insurer failed to discover and disclose it, the title insurer is liable to the property owner for either the cost of moving the sewer pipe or the diminished value of the property.

3. PRESCRIPTIVE EASEMENTS REQUIRE HOSTILITY. When someone uses part of your property without your permission, and without a prior recorded easement, he or she might become entitled to permanent use of that easement.

The legal requirements to acquire a prescriptive easement over someone's land requires (a) open, (b) notorious (obvious), (c) hostile (without permission), and (d) continuous use of part of another's property without permission for the number of years required by state law.

Payment of property taxes is not required, as it is to obtain title by adverse possession.
California has the shortest prescriptive easement period, only five years. But Texas requires 30 years to acquire a prescriptive easement. Other states have varying time tests.

Because prescriptive easements can be shared, the hostile use need not be exclusive. Use can be shared with the legal owner and/or other hostile prescriptive easement claimants.After meeting the time and use requirements, a prescriptive easement acquirer can perfect the easement by bringing a quiet title lawsuit against the property's legal owner. An experienced real estate attorney is usually needed to prove the prescriptive easement requirements.

SUMMARY: Virtually every property is burdened by or benefits from an easement. Property owners should understand the legal consequences of those easements and where they are located. Unless properly recorded, an easement might not be valid except when it is obvious by long continuous use, such as overhead power lines. For full easement details, please consult a local real estate attorney.

(For more information on Bob Bruss publications, visit his Real Estate Center)

Future Homeowners Pay For Poor Paint Job!

2007-07-05T08:51:00.000-07:00

How to ensure a long-lasting coat on stucco

Thursday, July 05, 2007By Bill & Kevin Burnett Inman News

Q: I own a stucco home that was built in the late 1940s. It was last painted about 10 years ago and is flaking.

When I lift the flakes off with a putty knife, the underside is white and chalky. The more I lift off, the farther it goes. Although some areas appear tight, some show lifting a day later. There are also some hairline cracks.

What is the best way to prep for painting? Should I rent a pressure washer, and if so, will that remove the chalkiness, or will that take wire brushing? Should the hairline cracks be widened and filled, or will the undercoat provide enough filler? Should the cracks be dealt with before washing? How powerful should the pressure washer be?

Also, I was planning to use Zinsser oil base undercoat, followed by Kelly-Moore Acry Velvet exterior paint.

A: A stucco paint job should last more than 10 years, especially if the paint was of reasonably good quality. We're afraid you've fallen victim to poor preparation.

As we always say, an exterior paint job is only as good as the prep -- and this was a crummy job. The fact the paint is peeling off the chalky surface underneath tells us that the previous "painter" -- and we use the term loosely -- just slapped on a coat of paint to make the place look good. The result is that he wasted a fair amount of time and money and didn't get the longevity he could have gotten with a little more time and effort.

Our compliments to you for doing it right this time. All of the questions you pose are good ones. You're definitely on the right track. Follow these steps to get a long-lasting "Cadillac" paint job.

1. Clean the surface. As far as we're concerned, using a pressure washer is the only way to go. A pressure washer rated at about 1,700 psi will do the job, but if you're renting, go for the larger model. You can always dial it down a bit.

Use a wider spray pattern and go at the wall at about a 45-degree angle so you don't blow a hole in the stucco. Use drop cloths at the base of the wall to catch the paint chips you'll invariably dislodge. We suspect the old paint will come off in sheets.

2. After the surface is dry give any cracks a quick swipe with a wire brush to eliminate any leftover debris. Also check for and remove any paint chips that may have escaped the pressure washer.

3. Prime the surface. The Zinsser product you mention should be OK. Doublecheck to make sure it's suitable for stucco and compatible with the Kelly-Moore finish coat you're planning.

Another option is to use a low-viscosity penetrating sealer. These sealers penetrate any chalking paint that might remain after washing and bond it to the surface. Since you're using a Kelly-Moore finish, take a look at their 98 Stucco Seal. A description and specifications can be found on the Web at www.kellymoore.com.

4. Patch the stucco. For patching hairline cracks, we've had good luck with Bondex Ready-Mixed Stucco Patch by Zinsser. This product has the consistency of a heavy paste, dries to a bright white and cleans up with warm water.

Application is with a putty knife, a broad knife or a heavy paintbrush. Work the material into the cracks and allow it to dry. If there are wide cracks several coats may be required. Because of its thickness this material can be "tooled" to match the existing stucco.
For more information check out the product data sheet at www.zinsser.com.

5. Apply the finish. The hard part's done, now it's time to reap the rewards. Paint your house the color of your choice and rest assured you've done everything you can to ensure a long-lasting job. Hopefully you won't tire of the color. But if you do, the next go-round of preparation will be a whole lot easier.
***
Copyright 2007 Bill and Kevin Burnett

How Reliable Are Square-footage Figures?

2007-06-29T08:47:00.000-07:00

Variables that skew public record

Monday, June 25, 2007By Dian Hymer Inman News

Misrepresenting square footage can get a seller into big trouble. If a buyer relies on a seller's disclosure about the living square feet in his home and the buyer later finds out that the representation was overly ambitious, a lawsuit could ensue.

Sellers have a tendency to round up the number of square feet in their home. The more cautious approach would be to round down. The safest approach would be to make no representation about square feet at all. In an ideal world, this would be the perfect solution. In the real world, however, buyers want to know how many square feet are included.

It's easy to understand why. Most buyers are busy and don't want to waste time looking at homes that won't work for them. Describing a listing by the number of bedrooms and bathrooms, without any reference to square feet, is a safe approach. But, it tells buyers little about the actual size of a listing.

In the diverse housing stock in many older neighborhoods, such as the desirable Rockridge area in Oakland, Calif., three-bedroom homes range in size from about 1,300 square feet to more than 3,000 square feet. To say a house has three bedrooms tells a buyer little about the usable space.

When the number of livable square feet -- square feet excluding such things as decks, terraces, garages, basements and storage rooms -- is not provided in the listing information, buyers often search on their own for this information.

It's not that hard to come up with a figure. Simply go to Zillow.com and type in an address. The square-footage figure that pops up is presumably from the public record. Unfortunately, the "public record" often doesn't reflect reality. It may be accurate for new homes that haven't been modified since the original building permits were approved. The figure is far more subject to error for older homes that have been remodeled over the years.

Remodels are often done without building permits, which wouldn't be reflected in the public record. However, even when add-ons are done with permits, the public record is not always changed to reflect the increase in square feet.

HOUSE HUNTING TIP:

It's a good idea for buyers to visit the local building or planning department to find out what documents are on record regarding a listing they're considering buying. This should be done during the inspection contingency time period. If possible, ask for copies of all the permits that were taken out on the property, starting with the original building permit.

If permits for obvious modifications to the property are missing, this could indicate the seller, or a previous owner, took shortcuts. Or, it could reflect a shortcoming in the planning department records. For example, fires in the City of Oakland Planning Department partially destroyed the permit archives.

Buyers often like to compare listings they're considering based on the price per square foot. This is a far-from-accurate way to figure out if you're paying a fair price for a property, unless you're looking at homes in a new housing development where there is little variability.

Also, if the figures you're using are from the public record, which is often wrong, the reliability is even more in question. The most accurate source of square footage is the information from the local permitting agency. If that information is not available, a licensed appraiser can measure the house to provide square-footage calculations.

THE CLOSING:

Keep in mind that an appraiser might call a room a bedroom -- even though it wasn't permitted as such by the building department -- if the work was done by licensed professionals and complies with building-code requirements.

Dian Hymer is author of "House Hunting, The Take-Along Workbook for Home Buyers" and "Starting Out, The Complete Home Buyer's Guide," Chronicle Books.
***

"Televator" Makes Atic Access A Cinch

2007-06-22T09:17:00.000-07:00

Say goodbye to traditional folding stairs

Friday, June 22, 2007 By Paul Bianchina Inman News

When you're standing there, surrounded by Christmas ornaments, Halloween decorations and other boxes representing a plethora of seldom-used items, your eyes can't help but wander up toward the ceiling. Hmmm … all that space up there in the attic, just waiting to be filled. But can you use it safely? And how do you get up there, without having to drag out the big ladder every time?

Whether or not an attic can be safely used for storage depends on the framing that supports the ceiling, the size and span of the lumber, the weight of the items being stored, and other variables that are unique to each home. The typical trussed or stick-framed attic is capable of supporting light loads evenly spaced, such as boxes of decorations or clothes. They are typically not suitable for heavy, concentrated loads such as boxes of paper or files.

Also, you should never cut any components in the ceiling or roof framing in order to accommodate storage -- or for any other reason -- unless you fully understand how the framing supports its loads, and how to transfer those loads during and after the reframing process. In short, never attempt to alter framing or use the attic for heavy storage purposes without first consulting with an experienced contractor, architect or structural engineer.

GAINING ACCESS

If you've determined that the attic is safe for storage, the next question is how to get up there safely and conveniently. For that one, Werner Ladders has come up with an innovative solution in the form of their "Televator" Telescoping Attic Ladder. The Televator is a fully retractable aluminum ladder that stores up in the attic behind a door, and that telescopes down into the room when needed.

Unlike traditional folding attic access stairs, the Televator requires very little effort to use, and very little room in which to open and set up, making it a great solution for confined areas such as bedroom closets where existing attic access hatches are typically located. An included metal pole is used to open the ceiling door and then telescope the ladder down, and the same pole is used to reverse the process to store the ladder back in the attic. The ladder sections are spring-loaded, and require only minimal strength to pull down or retract. The Televator comes complete in one box, and is easy to install for the average do-it-yourselfer. You will need to supply your own plywood for constructing the door, but all of the necessary door hardware is included with the kit.

The first step in the installation of a Televator is to determine if it will work for your particular attic access situation. The Televator is available in two sizes -- one for ceilings between 7 feet 4 inches and 8 feet 4 inches in height, the other for ceilings up to 10 feet 3 inches. Both require a ceiling opening that is a minimum of 22 inches by 22 inches (it can be larger than that in either or both directions, but not smaller).

When the ladder is closed, it requires 13 horizontal inches from the back of the attic opening to any obstructions, and when it's open it requires 30 vertical inches of clearance from the top of the attic framing. In its fully extended position, the 8-foot ladder requires 35 inches of clear space horizontally from the back of the attic opening to the front of the ladder's feet where they rest on the floor; the 10-foot version requires 41 inches.

Once you have the hole in the ceiling ready, installation is pretty straightforward. The ladder unit is completely assembled, and requires only the installation of a couple of corner support brackets and a header plate. You'll need a drill and a wrench for putting in the lag bolts.
Next, the length of the ladder is adjusted for your specific ceiling height. Here again, the Televator's unique design makes this process a simple matter of removing and then reinstalling a couple of screws in the adjustment brackets -- no cutting is required.

The final installation step of the ladder itself is to lift the unit into the opening and hang it on the support bracket. Two locking plates are then bolted into place and the two support struts are attached, and that's it. Complete installation, not including making the door or doing anything with the ceiling opening, should take less than an hour.

Making and installing the door is a matter of cutting a piece of 1/2-inch plywood to size, then installing the hinges, support brackets, latch and weather stripping. Everything you need (except the plywood) is supplied, and there are complete instructions and templates for every phase of the installation.

The Televator ladder carries a load rating of 250 pounds, and retails for $199 for the 8-foot version. You can visit www.wernerladder.com for more information, including a dealer locator.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paul2887@ykwc.net.
***

Smart Home Buyers Stay For The Long Haul

2007-06-14T08:48:00.000-07:00

Part 1 of 2: Making a wise purchase offer

Thursday, June 14, 2007By Ilyce R. Glink Inman News

In this two-part series, Ilyce Glink tackles some questions every home buyer should ask.
These days, life looks pretty good if you're on the buying side of a real estate transaction.

The number of homes for sale is at an all-time high and continuing to rise, according to the National Association of Realtors. The number of vacant homes is also at an all-time high. Developers are so desperate to unload houses that they're cutting prices in addition to offering free extras and upgrades.

But before you whip out a pen and fill in your offer to purchase, there are five questions every home buyer should ask:

1. How long do I plan to stay in this home?

This is the most critical question you can ask when going through the home-buying process because the answer can change what you buy, how much you pay for the property, and how you finance it.

Most home buyers tend to stay in their primary residences for five to 10 years. In the past few years, as the price of real estate was soaring and homeowners sought to capitalize on that, many people began treating their primary residences more like a piece of investment property. They'd buy, renovate (or not), and flip for big profits. Often, they'd plow their profits into a bigger, more expensive property.

With the real estate market slowing in many parts of the country, it makes sense to ask how long you plan to stay because short-term purchases will likely be money-losing propositions. It takes a savvy buyer to find a fixer-upper that can be renovated and flipped for a substantial profit in two to three years.

Once you figure out how long you plan to stay, ask yourself what would happen if you had to turn around and sell the property in a year. If you had to pay a 5 percent commission, plus other costs of sales including moving expenses, and the property didn't appreciate at all, would that change what you'd pay for the property today? Of course. You'd probably make a lower offer.

Be sure to take the length of time you plan to stay into account, but then account for a surprise move when calculating the price you offer the seller.

2. How desperate or anxious is the seller?

Sellers used to go to great lengths to avoid letting buyers know why they're moving. In most cases, people move because they accept a job offer in another location; they don't feel the local schools meet the needs of their children; or they aren't a good fit with the neighborhood.
But sometimes sellers move because of a death in the family, job loss (the property becomes unaffordable) or a divorce.

Finding out exactly why the seller is selling should be a top priority for all buyers and their agents. You also need to find out what kind of timeframe the seller is working under -- in other words, how desperate and anxious they are to sell and move.

The current buyer's market has produced record numbers of desperate and anxious sellers. In some cases, you have sellers who have already purchased and moved into their new homes. For them, every day that their property sits on the market translates simply into less cash back at the closing (assuming there is cash to be had).

You might also find sellers who are barely (or not) keeping up with their mortgages, and who are overextended financially.

If you find a desperate and anxious seller, you'll want to use that knowledge when constructing the offer. Desperate and anxious sellers are much more likely to accept a lower bid than sellers who feel they have all the time in the world to sell.

Next week: Three additional questions you should ask before constructing an offer to purchase

Smoke Detectors Have Come A Long Way, Baby

2007-06-12T08:40:00.000-07:00

But humans still play key role in preventing disasters

Dear Barry,

The smoke alarm in my townhome is wired to the electrical system and is presently inoperative. The fire insurance for the building is paid by the homeowners association. Does this make the association responsible for repairing the alarm? Electricians are very expensive, and I think that whoever pays the fire insurance should pay for smoke alarm repair. And while we're on the subject, what are the current requirements for smoke alarms? --

In collectively owned properties such as townhomes and condominiums, individual owners are responsible for interior conditions, while owners associations maintain all or part of the exterior and common areas. Because smoke alarms are interior fixtures, their maintenance and repair would most likely be the responsibility of resident owners. Exceptions, if any exist, should be specified in the CC&Rs (covenants, codes and restrictions) that set forth the rules for your association.

Smoke alarm requirements have gradually increased in number and complexity since the mid-1970s. The first smoke alarms were battery-powered units and were required near the doorways to all bedrooms. Unfortunately, homeowners and renters often failed to replace dead batteries, sometimes with tragic consequences. This problem was revealed by fire department investigators in the aftermath of major fires. To address this concern, it became mandatory to wire alarms to the electrical system.

The problem with hard-wired alarms was that power failures often occurred during electrical fires, rendering smoke alarms inoperative. Thus, by the early 1990s, hard-wired alarms were required to have battery backup. The new requirements of the 90s also mandated a smoke alarm in each bedroom, at each story of a home, and in basements and cellars.

By the recent turn of the century, code requirements increased again, calling for the interconnection of smoke alarms in homes with more than one alarm. If one alarm were to be activated by smoke, all other alarms within the dwelling would respond. If occupants were sleeping in a bedroom with the door closed, smoke at the opposite end of the home would trigger the bedroom alarm, thereby awakening the sleepers.

In homes that predate current building codes, there is no requirement to upgrade to current smoke alarm standards unless a permit is taken to alter the interior or construct an addition. In situations where there is no access area above the ceiling, where it would be difficult to upgrade to hard-wired alarms, battery-powered alarms are approved. However, some municipalities have enacted smoke alarm requirements that exceed the standards in the building code. Therefore, the local building official or fire department should be consulted for the latest applicable standards in your area.

Home inspectors often discover inoperative smoke alarms, much to the surprise of homeowners. Therefore, periodic testing of smoke alarms is strongly recommended.

As for your concern about the high cost of an electrician, smoke alarm replacement, in most cases, is a simple repair for a competent handyman.

Published by Barry Stone, Inman News

Best Way To Buy A Home That Needs Repairs

2007-06-08T09:05:00.001-07:00

Recently buyers who were in contract to purchase a home in Oakland, Calif., asked the seller to credit them money in escrow. The money was to be applied toward repairs that were recommended in the course of the buyers' inspections.

The sellers were offended. They had agreed to sell for significantly less than their asking price. They weren't inclined to make any further concessions. So they turned down the buyers' request and told their agent to put the house back on the market. The buyers, realizing that they were buying the house at a fair price, removed their inspection contingency and the sale went through.

Most residential home purchase contracts include an inspection contingency for the buyers to inspect the property. It's not uncommon for items to surface during the inspections that were previously unknown to both the buyer and seller.

Depending on how the contract is written, the buyers may be able to simply withdraw from the contract without penalty if they no longer want to buy the property. But if the buyers want to pursue the sale even in light of the inspection findings, there are several options.

If the defects are minor, they might simply remove their inspection contingency without asking the sellers to repair or pay for the defects. Or they could ask for a price reduction and agree to purchase the property "as is" with respect to the defects. Or they could ask the sellers to repair the problems. Or they could ask for a monetary credit at closing to offset some or all of the repair costs.

There are pros and cons to the various options, depending on the situation. Before making a request of the sellers, it's wise to assess your chance of a success. For example, if there is a backup offer for more than the price you agreed to pay, the seller might be just as happy to see you move on to another house, which would free him up to sell at a higher price.

Sellers who are willing to negotiate on inspection issues might be more receptive to a price reduction or a credit at closing, rather than having to make repairs, particularly if they are moving out of the area.

HOUSE HUNTING TIP: From the buyers' perspective, it's usually better to ask for a lower price than a credit, especially if your property taxes will be based on the purchase price and if you have plenty of cash to pay for the repairs. A credit works well for buyers who are cash-strapped. The credit offsets some of the buyers' closing costs and thereby frees up cash for repairs.

Before you ask for either a price reduction or a credit -- particularly if the amount is large -- be sure to talk with your mortgage broker or loan agent. A large price reduction could be a red flag to a lender who might want to see inspection reports. This could cause the terms of the transaction to be modified if the lender then required that work be done before closing. In this case, the close of escrow might have to be delayed, which could raise problems for both the buyer and seller.

Lenders also have limits on how much money a seller can credit a buyer at closing. On a mortgage for 100 percent of the purchase price, lenders usually limit the amount of a credit to 3 percent of the purchase price. On loans for 90 percent or less of the purchase price, the limit is often increased to 6 percent.

THE CLOSING: However, in either case, the amount of the credit cannot be more than the actual amount of the buyer's nonrecurring closing costs -- those costs paid by the buyer one time only at closing.

Published by Dian Hymer

The Power of Permits

2007-06-04T09:55:00.000-07:00

May 29, 2007

Dealing with a city's building department can be a nuisance, depending on where you live. The cost of obtaining permits ups the overall cost of a project. However, skipping the permit process can potentially cost you much more.

One homeowner jeopardized a profitable home sale because a significant remodel to the house was done without required building permits. In this case, the renovations added about 1,000 square feet to the building. The buyer's appraiser searched the public record for the recorded square footage of the house.

The public record indicated square footage for the building that was far less than the measured square footage. The appraiser refused to give full credit for the additional square footage unless the seller could substantiate that the work was permitted by the local building department.
Without full credit for the additional square footage, the house would appraise for much less than the contract purchase price. The buyer wouldn't pay the price he'd offered if the house didn't appraise for that price.

To remedy the situation, the seller went to the city building department and took out permits. Penalties were assessed so the permit fees were higher than they would have been if he'd taken permits out to begin with. This seller actually got off easy. The city building inspector could have required that walls be opened up to check the electrical and plumbing installations, which would have cost even more.

HOME SELLER TIP: It doesn't make good financial sense to spend a lot of money on a major renovation without obtaining the building permits that are required by law. The value of the work can be diminished if required permits aren't obtained. In some places, you might be required to undo work that was done without permits. And, you could be stopped from completing a job until you obtain the necessary permits.

To make sure that you don't get into trouble when you sell you home, check with your local city or county building department to find out what, if any, permits are required before you start a home renovation project. Not all projects require permits, and this will vary somewhat from one place to the next.

Generally, permits are required for work that might impact the health and safety of a building occupant, like running a new gas line so that you can relocate your furnace. Structural modifications or additions also usually require permits. You may need several permits for such things as foundation, electrical and mechanical.

Permits can be obtained by homeowners or their contractor. You may be able to save money if you take out the permits yourself and agree to be present for inspections. Some contractors have been known to talk homeowners out of the permit process because it saves the contractor time.

Make sure if you do ask your contractor to take out permits that he actually does it. Some unsuspecting homeowners have discovered after a job was complete that the permits were never obtained. Keep copies of permits and make copies available to buyers when you sell your home.

Sometimes permits for work are obtained, but the final approval is never received. This can have implications for the next person who tries to take out a permit to do work on the house. A San Francisco Bay Area home buyer discovered after closing that a permit to change the furnace had never received the final approval.

She hired a contractor to do termite work, which required a permit. When the contractor went to the city to obtain a permit, he was denied. The outstanding permit needed final approval before a new building permit would be issued.

THE CLOSING: Sellers who do work without required permits, or who don't have permitted work signed off, should disclose this to the buyers before closing to avoid legal problems with the buyers after the closeing.

Published by Dian Hymer

Eviction Derailed When Tenant Goes Missing

2007-05-31T08:57:00.000-07:00

Owner seeks way to regain possession of rental

DEAR BOB: I gave my tenant the required notice to move, confirmed with a receipt of notice. She agreed to move out. But the unit is now locked, no one is there, and her car is parked in the driveway. I phoned several times, but no reply. What options do I have? I already hired a contractor to update the unit, based on the tenant's promise to move out on schedule --

- Please consult a local real estate attorney whose specialty is evictions. I'm sure you have thought of the several possibilities such as the tenant moved out but left the car; abandoned the apartment and the car; passed away either in the apartment or elsewhere; is in the hospital or jail; is avoiding you because she refuses to move out; or wants to drag out the eviction procedure to obtain as much "free rent" from you as possible.

All these situations have happened to me with my rentals. Ask the neighbors if they have seen your tenant or any activity at the rental. Then contact the local police to learn if they have any record of activity at the property or if they can trace your missing tenant. After that, follow your attorney's advice to regain possession of your rental unit.

Published by - Robert Bruss, Inman News

Light Bulbs Hold Key To Energy Savings

2007-05-28T10:17:00.000-07:00

There's been a lot of interest in energy-efficient light bulbs lately, with an emphasis on swapping out older incandescent bulbs for newer fluorescent ones. Unlike the long fluorescent tubes we're all familiar with, these bulbs, known collectively as compact fluorescent light bulbs, or CFLs, resemble a standard light bulb.

They are designed to screw directly into the same socket as a standard incandescent bulb, and are available in a variety of sizes to work with virtually any existing fixture you might have in your home.

According to some statistics compiled and presented by the government's Energy Star program, CFLs can produce an equivalent amount of light to a standard bulb, but they last up to 10 times longer and use about two-thirds less energy. So the cost savings associated with not having to replace your bulbs as often will make up for the higher initial cost of the CFL, and you should save something on the order of $30 per bulb in energy costs over the projected life of the fluorescent bulb.

Some of the other benefits of CFLs include a reduction in heat output. We all know how hot a standard incandescent bulb gets as the filament glows, so they're more dangerous to use, and all that heat adds to the cooling load in your home. According to Energy Star, a typical CFL puts out only about 30 percent of the heat of an incandescent bulb.

If you're thinking of starting to replace some of the incandescent bulbs in your house with CFLs, you might want to start with the fixtures that are switched on the most, such as porch lights and lights in the living room and kitchen. And remember that not all fluorescent bulbs are the same, so follow some of these tips for selecting the right bulb:

Select a bulb with a lumen rating (lumens are the standard measure of light output) that is equal to the bulb you're replacing. For example, a 60-watt incandescent puts out about 800 lumens, so if you're replacing a 60-watt bulb you'll want a fluorescent bulb that meets or slightly exceeds that lumen output.

Fluorescent bulbs are available in warm- and cool-white colors, so select the color of light that best suits where the fixture is used. Warm-white colors most closely mimic standard incandescent bulbs, while cool-whites are more like the color of light from standard fluorescent tubes.

If you are replacing bulbs in a fixture that is connected to a dimmer or a three- or four-way switch, be sure that the bulb is rated for that use.

Some CFLs may have trouble operating correctly in some types of fully enclosed light fixtures, so read the package carefully for any restrictions on the bulb's use, or talk with a lighting dealer.

SOME OTHER STRATEGIES

In addition to replacing bulbs, you can minimize energy usage with a few other strategies as well. In the kitchen, consider the use of fluorescent under-cabinet lighting. These glare-free fixtures illuminate the counters for improved viewing with less eye strain, and can save you from having to rely on additional overhead incandescent fixtures.

In fixtures such as multibulb bathroom lights, if you don't want to switch to CFLs yet you might want to think about reducing the wattage of the bulbs. For example, a fixture with five 60-watt bulbs uses 300 watts of electricity, while replacing the bulbs with 40-watt ones will reduce that to 200 watts, saving you the equivalent of a 100-watt bulb.

You may not have the luxury of rearranging your light switches in an existing home, but if you're building or remodeling, another great strategy for saving electricity is to pay attention to how your switches are set up. For example, when walking into the kitchen and flipping on the switch, you probably don't need any more than just one or two overhead lights to see efficiently.

For specific tasks, such as washing dishes or preparing food, having the task-light fixtures in each specific area set on a separate switch will allow you to regulate the amount of light -- and electricity you use -- to the task you're performing at that time.

Fed up with closing costs.

2007-05-24T09:20:00.000-07:00

Can Bank of America's new loan product revolutionize lending?

Tuesday, May 22, 2007By Ilyce R. Glink Inman News

If you ask home buyers what they hate about the process of buying a home, closing costs are likely to land near the top of the list.

Are you surprised? Mortgage companies have made it difficult, if not impossible, to tell what's a true cost and what's a junk fee. Home buyers are being charged for things that should be included in the profit the lender is making.

Why, for example, is there an "underwriting fee"? The process of underwriting a loan can take minutes, as many lenders have streamlined the process and use technology that nearly instantaneously spits out whether someone is qualified.

Is this $250-to-$500 fee the cost of someone's time to enter in the information into the computer program? And if that's what you're paying for with that line item on the HUD-1, what's the $200 document preparation fee for? Is this a prime example of a lender double-dipping or just another revenue source? Does it really cost the lender $200 to prepare the closing documents on top of what you're paying for the underwriting fee, application fee and other fees?

If all of these fees weren't bad enough, the true costs of these items are often marked up to pad the lender's profit. A prime example? It might cost the lender a couple of bucks for your credit history and credit score, but some have charged $75 to $150.

And what about title charges? In some states, title costs are mandated by the state law. Why? I don't know for sure, but I'll hazard a guess that it has to do with the way title companies lobby state legislatures.

Even in states where title costs aren't mandated by state law, true competition remains elusive, as attorneys are paid many hundreds of dollars for essentially doing very little or no "title" work. (This practice is under investigation as a possible violation of RESPA by the Justice Department.) Home buyers and sellers foot the bill for these services, and as a result, pay title and escrow charges that easily run several thousand dollars for each closing.

Lenders have tried to counter the closing cost discussion by introducing mortgages that are "zero-closing-cost." The problem is, they either made up the loss of the closing costs and fees by raising the interest rate on the loan or they simply tacked on an extra 3 percent of your loan amount to cover the missing costs.

So, if you didn't have enough cash on hand for your closing costs, you'd have to live with a slightly higher interest rate (not too tough when interest rates were at 5 percent for a 30-year fixed-rate loan) or your $200,000 mortgage would turn into a $206,000 loan.

All of this, plus lenders' penchant for calling junk fees by different names, has made it difficult for home buyers to really understand what they're paying for, and to properly compare loan programs from different lenders on an apples-to-apples basis -- even if you did get a proper good faith estimate, as required by federal law.

How do you fix the problem? Recently, Bank of America decided to do away with certain closing costs altogether. According to Floyd Robinson, president of the consumer real estate division of the bank, BofA has decided to pick up these costs without raising the interest rate on the loan.
"Our new No Mortgage Fee Plus program will cost the bank approximately $3,000 for every $200,000 loan," Robinson explained. "We're eliminating the mortgage application fee, all closing fees, and all lender charges and third-party fees. In addition, the program is available to up 95 percent of the sales price and we will not be charging anyone private mortgage insurance (PMI)."

Robinson said borrowers would not pay any lender closing fees, flood determination fees, title exam fees, courier fees, tax service fees, settlement closing fees, or tax escrow or impound fees. Robinson also said that borrowers would not have any prepayment penalties on their new loans.
Robinson points out that Bank of America plans to hold these home loans in their own portfolio, instead of reselling them on the secondary loan market. At the moment, the loans are available only to those actually buying a house instead of refinancing an existing mortgage, although he suggested that the bank is working on a true no-cost refinance product that it hopes to introduce later this year.

"We are really focused on putting the right home buyer into the right loan, and keeping these loans on the bank's balance sheet is our way of showing how serious we are about that," Robinson said.

The Bank of America No Mortgage Fee Plus program will be available to any home buyer who has at least a 620 credit score, he said, adding, "We have the lowest default and foreclosure rate in the industry."

Robinson said that while the bank wouldn't collect the $3,000 in fees on each $200,000 mortgage, executives were confident that the new program would dramatically increase the bank's share of the residential loan market, and that would give them new opportunities to cross-sell other products.

"Most Bank of America customers have several different accounts at the bank. They might have a home loan, credit card, checking account, savings account, or even an auto loan with us. This is one more opportunity to provide a service to new and existing customers."

Dick Lepre, a senior loan officer with Residential Pacific Mortgage, based in San Francisco, who has several accounts with Bank of America, says he believes the new loan program is probably a very good one and that the bank is willing to spend what it takes to get a bigger share of the business.

"Nobody likes closing costs. While the bank can't change the economics of the mortgage business, it can absorb these costs as a marketing expense. It's the cost of establishing in people's minds that these loans are out there," Lepre said.

But Lepre wonders how long the bank intends to offer these closing-cost-free loans.
"When E-Loan started, it closed mortgage loans at the wholesale price in order to establish themselves as a place to go. Now, their prices have gone up. We'll have to see what happens with the Bank of America program," he added.To get even more valuable advice from Ilyce, visit her Personal Finance and Real Estate Center.

2007-05-22T08:47:00.000-07:00

GST and Your New Home

When you buy a newly constructed home, condominium or townhome, the entire purchase price including land is taxable. If the property is to be rented to tenants, the full 7% GST is charged on the purchase price. However, if the home is going to be your primary place of residence, it may qualify for a partial GST rebate, depending upon the sale price.

Homes Under $350,000

For homes costing $350,000 or less, you will receive a rebate of 36% of the GST paid, to a maximum of $8750. That means you pay approximately 4.5% GST (not 7%) on the purchase price.

Example #1

You buy a new home for $150,000. The 7% GST is $10,400. The 7% GST is $10,400, less a 36$ rebate of $3780. So you pay $6,720 in GST.
$150,000 X 7% = $10,500 (GST)
$10,500 X 36% = $ 3,780 (GST Rebate)
$10,500 – $3,780 = $ 6,720 (Actual GST paid on the house)

Homes Between $350,000 - $450,000

The maximum rebate is $8,750. The rebate for new homes costing costing between $350,000 - $450,000 declines to zero on a proportional basis, using the following formula:
Rebate = $8,750 X ($450,000 Home Price) / $100,000

Homes Over $450,000

New homes selling for $450,000 or more do not qualify for a GST rebate.
If you buy a substantially renovated home from a builder who supplies both the land and the house as a single transaction, the same GST rebate conditions described earlier apply. Your REALTOR can explain how the Federal Government defines “substantially renovated.”

GST and Land

Buyers who purchase land separately may have to pay GST on the sale price depending on the previous use of the land. When you build a new home on your land, then you will pay GST on the construction costs of the house, less any applicable rebate.
The rebate would be the same as for a new home, when the total value of the land and home is $350,000 or less, the rebate would be 36% of the GST paid on the building and the land to a maximum of $8,750.
When the total value of the land and house exceeds $350,000 but is less than $450,000, a proportional formula for calculating the GST rebate applies.
As with other new home purchases, GST rebates are not available for land and buildings valued at $450,000 or more when you build a house on your lot.
GST and the Resale home

You don’t have to pay GST on the purchase price of a used residential home. In other words, the purchase is “exempt” from GST.

The Canada Customs and Revenue Agency defines “used residential property” to include a previously occupied house, condominium, apartment, summer cottage, vacation property or non-commercial hobby farm, that has been occupied as a residence before you bought it.
Used property can also mean a recently built house that is substantially complete and has been sold at least once before you buy it. For example, if a new house is purchased and resold before being occupied, the new home’s resale price will normally be exempt from GST.
An owner-occupied home is considered a residential property when it’s used primarily as your residence. So, if you are self-employed and purchase a resale home that includes a room used as an office, the entire home still qualifies for the GST exemption.
However, if your owner-occupied home is not used mainly for residential purposes (ie. A retail store with a small apartment upstairs), only the residential portion is exempt from GST on resale. The non-residential portion of the purchase price is taxable.
If you are planning to purchase a resale home, the seller can make a declaration on the deed stating that the property qualifies as “used” for GST purposes.
As with most taxes, there are exceptions to the GST rules regarding resale housing. For instance, most sales of real property by charities, non-profit organizations and other public service agencies are except from GST.

GST and the Real Estate Transaction

GST applies to most of the services provided in completing the real estate transaction. For example, 7% GST is applied to the commission a REALTOR charges for facilitating a sale. The tax is paid by the person responsible for paying the commission – usually the seller.
REALTOR commissions are taxable even if the GST owed is reduced by a rebate, or the sale of the property is exempt from GST. For example, if you sell a used home, the sale price is exempt from GST but the REALTOR’s commission is still taxable.
GST applies to many other services involved in the real estate transaction, such as fees for appraisals, referrals, surveys and legal assistance. Again, GST is charged on these fees regardless of whether the house you purchase is exempt from the tax.
One exception is that mortgage broker fees are exempt from GST if the fees are charged separately from any taxable real estate commissions. Additionally, mortgages and interest on mortgages are GST exempt.

GST and RENT

No GST is payable on residential rents. However, if you employ a REALTOR or another professional to find and arrange a tenant for your rental property, GST applies to the fees and commissions they charge for providing this service. GST also applies to the fees charged to the landlord for the property management, as well as repair and maintenance services. Monthly fees charged by condominium associations are not subject to GST.
When is GST payable?

GST is normally due and payable when the real estate transaction is completed. This is usually referred to as the “closing date.” In some cases, GST could be payable on transfer of possession.
For buyers, GST owed on the purchase price of non-exempt property, as well as fees and commissions for professional services is also paid at closing.

For sellers, GST owed on fees and commissions for professional services is also paid on closing.
Your REALTOR can answer your questions about the closing date and GST payments. For additional GST information, contact your local Canada Customs and Revenue Agency office.

Demystifying Mortgages-How Much Can You Borrow?

2007-05-18T08:45:00.000-07:00

A home is typically the largest purchase you will make in your lifetime, and for most Canadians this means obtaining a mortgage. The amount of your mortgage will determine the size and location of your new home - not to mention the size of your payments. So how do lending institutions decide how large your mortgage loan can be?

Lending institutions (such as banks, credit unions, trust companies and insurance companies) want to be certain that you are capable of repaying the money you borrow. Consequently, the loan application process is thorough. Lenders consider your income, credit history, debt load, employment history and collateral, including the value of the property you wish to buy.

Although there is some discretion in determining the exact amount, the size of your loan is generally calculated using set formulas - Gross Debt Service Ratio (GDS) and Total Debt Service Ratio (TDS). GDS is the percentage of your gross monthly income (before taxes) required to cover monthly payments on mortgage principal, mortgage interest, property taxes and sometimes heating (often abbreviated as PITH). Your GDS should not exceed 30% to 32% to be eligible for most mortgages. Because many people also owe money to other lenders (car loan, student loan, credit cards, etc.), TDS offers a more accurate estimate of what you can afford. TDS is the percentage of your gross monthly income required to cover PITH plus any other debts. Your TDS should not exceed 40% of your gross monthly income.

There are many other factors that will impact the final mortgage amount. A poor credit history or a spotty employment record, for example, can disqualify you altogether or significantly alter the total. Keep in mind that just because a lender is willing to approve a large mortgage it is no guarantee that you can, in reality, afford the monthly payments.

To truly understand how much you can afford you must examine your other monthly expenses - those not accounted for in the lender's calculations (such as entertainment, charities, vacations, etc.). Remember that you will also need a lump sum down payment (at least 25% for conventional mortgages and as little as 5% for high-ratio mortgages) and money to cover closing costs. For more information on mortgages, calculators and online applications, visit http://www.royallepage.ca.

Rid Hardwood Floors of Doggy Scratch Marks

2007-05-17T09:29:00.000-07:00

: My dog's nails have left minor scratches in my wood floors. Is there any way to repair this without complete refinishing?
A: If the scratches are not all the way through the finish and into the wood below, there are a couple of things you can try:

1. Sand the scratched area with 0000-grade steel wool to blend the scratch into the surrounding area.

2. Use a very small brush and apply a small amount of polyurethane just to the scratch itself -- keep it off the surrounding area as much as possible. Many hardwood floor companies also offer polyurethane scratch repair kits.

3. Rub a small amount of paste wax directly into the scratch, using a clean, soft rag. Let the wax dry, then buff the area around the scratch. If you have dark-colored floors, use a dark paste wax that's formulated for darker woods.

4. Use a color-putty stick in a color that matches the floor. Rub it lightly into the scratch, then let it dry.

5. Try one of the commercial scratch removers available that work primarily by filling in the scratched area and eliminating the reflected light from that area, making the scratch seem to disappear.

All of the products you need are available at most home centers, paint stores or retailers of flooring-related products. Try the repair in an unobtrusive spot such as a closet before tackling more obvious areas. If the scratch is through the finish and into the wood beneath, you need to have the area sanded and recoated. However, many hardwood floor contractors can sand and coat just a portion of the floor, so it still may not be necessary to do the entire floor.
Q: I have a gas water heater that keeps running out of hot water. The thermostat is turned to high and the water gets very hot, but it doesn't last long. Short of replacing the water heater, what else I can try?

A: Insufficient hot water from a gas water heater can be caused by a couple of different things. One problem might be sediment buildup in the bottom of the tank. You can try this repair yourself by shutting off the gas and the water at the tank, attaching a garden hose to the drain valve on the bottom of the tank, and then draining the tank. Re-open the water valve to help flush the tank with clean water. Shut the drain valve, refill the tank, then turn the gas back on and restart the water heater. If you are not comfortable with any of these steps, you need to contact an experienced, licensed plumber instead.

Other possible culprits would include insufficient air for full combustion, clogged gas burners or a faulty thermostat, all of which are repairs that need to be left to a plumber. You could also have low gas pressure from the utility company, which could be caused by any number of situations. If you and your plumber suspect this is the cause, you need to contact your gas utility and have them come out and do a pressure test for you.

If your water heater is getting old and showing any signs of rust or other problems besides the one you mentioned, you may be better off having it replaced instead of repaired. You'll end up with a new warranty and a water heater that is more efficient than your old one, which will save you some money in the long run.

Q: I had the siding replaced on my home, and now there are several bumps and holes in my interior walls, like the nail heads have come through. The contractor says there is nothing you can do about this. Is that true? --Ria M., via e-mail.

A: What you are seeing sound like nail pops. These occur when the nails holding the drywall to the studs either come slightly out of the wood, or the drywall joint compound that covers the nail heads comes off. The repair is pretty simple, and entails tapping the nail back into the drywall, then recovering and re-texturing the resulting "dimple," followed by touching up the paint.

As to your specific question, the answer is yes and no. Nail pops can certainly be caused by pounding on the opposite side of the stud from the drywall, as would be the case with the installation of siding. If the drywall was not installed well in the first place, it can be very difficult for the siding installer to prevent these nail pops from occurring. On the other hand, a siding contractor is aware of the possibility of nail pops during any siding job, and would typically check the interior of the home early on to see if any damage was occurring, or at least make you aware of the possibility so you could keep an eye out for it.

My best advice is to sit down with the contractor and see if you can come up with a mutually agreeable solution. Perhaps he could do the drywall repairs and you could do the painting, or you could agree to split the cost of having someone else do all the repair work.
Remodeling and repair questions?

Copyright 2007 Paul Bianchina/Inman News

Pros And Cons Of Selling An "As IS" House

2007-05-16T08:47:00.000-07:00

DEAR BOB: I have decided to sell my home so I can afford to move to a very nice, nearby assisted-living residence. My two-bedroom home, built in 1938, has become a bit run-down. However, it is in a very good neighborhood where most homes have been remodeled or completely rebuilt. My real estate agent suggests I spend about $50,000 to renovate the kitchen and bathrooms before listing my house on the market for sale. My son says I should just have the house painted inside and outside.

He and his pals have offered to do the painting in a weekend or two. I can afford the $50,000 renovation cost, but then I read your article about selling "as is" and wonder if that's the way to go?

Listen to your smart son. There is no sense spending $50,000 to renovate an older house just before sale. Your buyers will either like your charming older house the way it is and be thankful for a reasonable price in a desirable neighborhood, or they will want to remodel to their taste after purchase.

Save your $50,000 and the inconvenience of renovation, which might not even return the $50,000 in the form of a higher sales price.

Let your son and his pals paint your house inside and outside. Also, check the landscaping to be sure it is attractive. Perhaps plant some spring flowers to make the front yard especially inviting.

When you sell your home "as is," that means the seller must disclose all known defects (such as a leaking roof) but the seller won't pay for any repairs. However, if an obvious defect can be repaired at minimal expense, such as a dripping faucet, get it fixed.

In addition to the real estate agent you already consulted, after the house is painted and ready to sell, I suggest you interview at least two more agents.

The reason is you need to compare their evaluations, especially their CMAs (comparative market analysis). These forms will show you recent sales prices of comparable nearby homes, asking prices of neighborhood homes currently listed for sale (your competition), and even the asking prices of recently expired similar home listings. Then you can correctly set your asking price.

Published by Inman News

Presale Inspections Can Give Sellers Advantage

2007-05-15T08:44:00.000-07:00

Defects disclosed, renegotiations minimized in one fell swoop

It's becoming more common for sellers to hire inspectors to inspect their property before it's put on the market. The reports are then made available to buyers to review before they make an offer.

From a seller's perspective, presale inspections accomplish two goals. One objective -- particularly in states such as California that have seller disclosure requirements -- is to make sure that property defects are disclosed to prospective buyers in a timely fashion. Sellers who order inspections often do so to ensure that defects they might not be aware of are disclosed before, not after, the sale closes.

However, presale inspection reports should not be viewed as a substitute for a seller's disclosure obligations. For example, if you are aware of a roof leak, you must disclose it, even if the inspector misses this defect.

Another benefit to sellers from presale inspections is that they tend to cut down on renegotiations that can occur after buyers complete their inspections. If the buyer is aware of a defect before an offer is made, it can be factored into the offer price. This way, the seller has a better idea of how much he is likely to net from the sale at the time the offer is accepted.

The more a buyer knows about the condition of a property before an offer is made, the better. If minimal information is available when the purchase contract is negotiated, and big surprises revealed are in the buyer's inspection reports, the transaction could collapse. In this case, the seller has to start over. And, the reports that were generated by the first buyers will probably need to be disclosed to future buyers.

Sellers who understand the wisdom of ordering presale inspection reports should use inspectors that are well known and respected in the local area. Your real estate agent should be able to recommend the best local inspectors to you.

Some sellers and listing agents mistakenly order reports from inspectors who are known for being less critical than others. This can defeat the seller's purpose and raise a suspicion in the buyer's mind if the inspector overlooks an important defect that the buyers uncover when their inspector examines the property.

The seller of a Crocker Highlands home in Oakland, Calif., recently hired a pest inspector who issued a benign report on the property. The inspector recommended no further inspections.
When the buyer's home inspector looked at the house, he saw evidence of dry rot under a bathroom. So, the buyers asked a second pest inspector to inspect the property.

The inspector recommended that test openings be done to determine if there was damage behind the finished walls. These further inspections revealed damage to the wood framing and a cost of more than $5,000 to repair it. So this particular presale inspection did little to mitigate further price negotiations.

HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Before you rely on an inspection report that was ordered by the sellers, make sure that the inspector who prepared the report is well respected for thoroughness and impartiality in the local marketplace. If this is not the case, plan on having another inspector look at the property. If the report is out of date, ask the inspector to update the report before you sign off on it.

Read the report carefully. Call the inspector yourself for answers to any questions you might have about the report or the property. Schedule a meeting with the inspector at the property to do a walkthrough of the property with you so that he can explain the report and answer any questions you might have.

THE CLOSING: It's never a good idea to forego inspections just to save money.
Dian Hymer is author of "House Hunting, The Take-Along Workbook for Home Buyers" and "Starting Out, The Complete Home Buyer's Guide," Chronicle Books.

Published by Dian Hymer, Inman News